Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:Annnd what does that do for the conductivity???:rolleyes:

Makes the star washer more important!

Star washer is critical!! That's why I used the high quality Military Spec MS35333 version. They are more highly controlled for hardness than the commercial versions and have excellent ductility, not like those made off shore. I have a good source for high quality fasteners!!:D

My primary conductivity path will be headstock - stainless tooth washer -terminal ring - ground wire - earth. Can't rely on the threads for reasons stated previously. FYI....they do make anti-seize lubricants in each copper and nickel bases which have great conductivity BUT....both do not have good galvanic compatibility with cast iron. Always something....again.

UPDATE 1-13-10 - I did not end out with the ground wire as shown in the post below. Instead, I mounted it between the access plate and the rear motor housing using the access plate screw to secure it. I'll post a photo later in this thread and hopefully remember to come back and update this one to tell you were it is.


Original post #415
Here's the method I used to attach the green jumper ground wire to the ER's motor. The other end will be secured up inside the headstock.
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Notice that the green ground wire is longer than the black (hot) and white (return) wires. That's so that if the wires are inadvertently yanked, the ground wire would be the last to come disconnected.

Although the external pressure was relentless (jpg40504):D , I didn't want to attach the ground wire to the outside of the motor for cosmetic reasons so instead, I attached it to the brown terminal plate mounting screw that threads into the inside of the back cover. I was going to (and probably should have) mount it to one the two access cover screws but the thickness of the terminal ring caused a slight gap between the cover and the mounting surface and I figured dust would get in. (and ya, ya dusty, your thinking "to get sawdust in, you gotta first make it!!"). Anyway, it's now mounted where it is and it will stay there until I have to service the motor in the future. I'll move it then. The disadvantage of mounting where I did is that should I have to remove the motor, I have to disconnect the motor wires at the switch first. No biggie since the headstock has the access hole under the ShopSmith nameplate and it's easy to get to the switch.

The caster assembly on the rust bucket needed some serious attention. Life left outside, unconvered, is brutal for any machine.
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Decided to use "Greenie I" with a lathe setup to sand the caster rods removing the heavy rust and pitting. This is the same setup used to clean up the way tubes.
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Because the rod diameters are so small (1/2" and 3/8"), unless the ShopSmith's RPM's are BLAZING, the process goes too slow. I didn't trust using those higher RPM's although I did try it. Turning at a reasonable speed (drum sander speed setting range), the first rod I did took about 20 minutes using a sanding block with 36 grit paper. To get completely through the rust and pitting meant removing .006" from the OD's. (same amount of metal removal as when I did the way tubeswhich were equally rusty). Anyway, to speed the process up, I decided to use use my belt sander while the Greenie did the turning. To do that, naturally I had to go to the backside of the ShopSmith so that the rotation of the sander was going against that of the ShopSmith. The sander had a 50 grit belt on it and that reduced the sanding time to about 5 minutes. MUCH BETTER since I had 2 more to do. After my wife took the photo, she asked how come my hand was so white as compared to my arm. I then realized that for whatever reason, I had a DEATH GRIP on the belt sander handle. (wondered why my hand was getting tingly ). Guess I was prepared for some kind of incident.
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Came out well.

The aluminum parts were cleaned off using an 8" brass wire wheel on the bench grinder along with detail work using a dremel tool with wire brushes. You can't see them but there are still a few areas that I just couldn't get to so they still have a bit of the original 'crud' that will serve to refresh the memories of what they looked like when I got it.

Notice I didn't mirror polishthe aluminum castings as I did with 'Greenie I'!! That was (is) a tough decision.
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Mike -

Another museum quality machine when you're done!! Looks great!

Hmmmmm........I think the high standards are catching up with our top restorer. 11 coats on the planks but he leaves corrosion on the caster assembly.

Just doesn't seem right.

etc92guy wrote:Hmmmmm........I think the high standards are catching up with our top restorer. 11 coats on the planks but he leaves corrosion on the caster assembly.

Just doesn't seem right.

What corrosion????? Just because he did not Polish it?? Unpolished and corroded are not the same!:rolleyes: Those spots near the end are impossible to get at(dental picks not withstanding!).

etc92guy wrote:Hmmmmm........I think the high standards are catching up with our top restorer. 11 coats on the planks but he leaves corrosion on the caster assembly.

Just doesn't seem right.

Oh you just had to do that to me didn't you. I was almost recovered!!!:D And jpg's suggestion about the dental pic......I hadn't even thought of that!!! Guess I am NOT done with the caster assembly yet. Thanks for nothin' guys.

My father used to alway say "Driving by 60 mph you'll never see it!!" That just never registered for me.
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judaspre1982 wrote:Those corners look like the Dremel tool fitted with a small brass cup brush would do the trick for the most part.------Dave

NG Dave. Tried it. It's too close and the handpiece gets in the way. I even used the flexible shaft which has a smaller diameter handpiece. It just can't get into the corners. What I need in felt polishing bobs .
Funny thing happened. I couldn't recall the name of those things. I thought they were called 'polishing knobs'. DON'T google 'polishing knobs' . And we wonder why the kids innocently get exposed to stuff on the internet!!! I can hear the questions now!!!:D

Mike,

If you can use a felt cone then there are wire brushes that will work with your Dremel. This will save you from having to polish the entire casting to match the corners cleaned with rouge and a felt cone.

Take a look at:
http://www.julesborel.com/tool/TC08page0064.htm

You might also look at scratch brushes.

JB is a great company but their web based catalog and search engine are awful. You might want to leaf through page by page as there are a lot of interesting tools here.

Troy