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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:21 am
by JPG
pieceseeker wrote:Are they're any drawings or pics of these ball valves...an exploded view?
None that I have seen. That part the nipple screws into is not a 'user servicable part'.
You really do not want to probe around to remove 'sawdust'. It is very difficult to 'get in there' and more so to get it back togethder again(and functioning).
Try blowing it out. There is an inlet port near the bottom of that tube it is mounted on.
There are two valves(intake and exhaust(nipple). Crud tends to collect in the 'common' chamber. Manually operating the piston(with the leather 'ring') can 'help'. I think you will have to 'blow' from both directions.
Again, disassembly not recommended.(but possible)
Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:55 am
by pieceseeker
I stumbled onto some good info by searching "ball valve", nice exploded view. You may find it interesting.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ball+valve
Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:02 pm
by pieceseeker
Well, this is gonna take some explaining!!!!
[ATTACH]21727[/ATTACH]
I gotta shaft, but no balls!
[ATTACH]21728[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]21729[/ATTACH]
Should I feel gypped, robbed????
Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:54 pm
by fredsheldon
pieceseeker wrote:Well, this is gonna take some explaining!!!!
I gotta shaft, but no balls
[
Pun not intended ?

Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:29 pm
by pieceseeker
Uh.......
maybe
Seriously though, is this a defect, design change, or other.
Maybe someone forgot to put in the balls and springs.
Maybe engineers decided the check valve design was too restrictive considering the low volume and pressure of air involved.
Or just too prone to plugging and generally fouling up.
Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 4:49 pm
by pieceseeker
Planning to just clean up and re-assemble the upper chuck. I will run it and test the air pump as is. I may fabricate a new piston cup seal out of leather just for the heck of it, although the old one may be fine.
In the meantime, I ran into a situation with the first input seal I bought for the crankcase portion. It leaked badly after a 15 minute run. It wasn't really the proper seal anyway, but I had decided to try it.
Ordered, received, and installed the proper seal (SKF 4912). Ran it on the SS and not the pwr stand ( still having pulley problems with the pwr stand).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xrigq8-VBmY
One note, always check the oil cold before using. Checking it after use, it's always going to run out from expansion ( unless it's very low to begin with).
Ran jigsaw for 1 hour, no load, slow rpm. Came away with no leaks, only slightly warm to the touch only at the input shaft and the lower chuck shaft.
So, I consider that portion of the rebuild a success
Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 5:08 pm
by joshh
Your video gave me an idea for making some money. Get some attachments and invite females over, charge $1.99 per minute for admission, and change speeds to suit

Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:14 pm
by pieceseeker
Well, Mr. Entrepreneur, where would you attach the stirrups?

New Video
Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 5:05 pm
by pieceseeker
This is an air pump test. Threw the jigsaw together last night in order to run this test before final assembly and cleanup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8Rp_5GG ... e=youtu.be
Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 5:34 pm
by reible
I think you would be better off going for a real world test. Draw some lines on some material then start sawing, if the line is visible then the saw dust clearing is working, if you have to stop and clear the line then it isn't.
The fine dust off the cuts blowing off a (waxed?) table and insert is one thing, blowing it off the material, such as plywood is another thing. So just do it.
Ed