Main Table Alignment to the Blade

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:40 pm

reddog5362 wrote:I did align the two tables. But it was done with the headstock and main table set to the far left of the machine. I assumed this would produce maximum accuracy since the distance would magnify the error. To make this rip cut I'm moving the headstock and main table to the far right since the fence has to be positioned off of the main table. This is what seems to be producing the variance.

I suspect you introduced error when you did your alignment with the main table far left and away from the aux table. To confirm take the aux table out, push the main table all the way right and attachthe aux table to the right of main table with the extension tubes only allowing the aux table to float (don't insert the table tubes in the base arm). Now put the rip fence on the aux table and check alignment. If it is good, insert the aux table in the base arm and redo your alignment using Nick's method with the main table right up against the aux table.

reddog5362 · Post by **reddog5362** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:51 pm

Ummmm. Can we ignore my last couple of posts and chalk it up to old age? Got to really looking and the table tube that the fence rides on (510) was loose. With a bunch of sawdust behind it. Blew it out tightened all the tube bolts seems to be back in alignment. Sorry for the panic

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 5:03 pm

dusty wrote:If you do the drilling yourself, I suggest that you drill out only the rear/right hole. Leaving the other rear trunnion hole at 3/8" would make a more stable pivot point for the table.

If that does not completely resolve your alignment problem, you can then drill out the other.

Think about it. In Nick's recommended procedure he says to secure one of the bolts as a pivot point. Why drill it out and then secure it so it can't move???

If I could do mine over again, that is what I would do.

A 1/2" x 3/8" bushing(sleeve) will do the same thing!;)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 5:29 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]A 1/2" x 3/8" bushing(sleeve) will do the same thing!]

Thanks for that feed back. I will put a couple of those on my list. Everything is working fine right now but if that changes I will install one.

dcottrill · Post by **dcottrill** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:38 pm

Ok, Drill out the left side rear and tried to align the table. Still could not seem to get it aligned. Drilled out the right side rear.

I ended up keeping the front right side bolt tight and was finally able to align the table. It took some experimentation. I left them all loose and floated the table around until I figured out what would work the best. Was aligned to 0.001" before the tightening up of the table bolts. it is a little better than 0.002" with all the bolts tighten.

It was easier than I expected to drill out the holes. It was harder getting it all secured to the table so nothing would move.

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:01 pm

dcottrill wrote:Ok, Drill out the left side rear and tried to align the table. Still could not seem to get it aligned. Drilled out the right side rear.

I ended up keeping the front right side bolt tight and was finally able to align the table. It took some experimentation. I left them all loose and floated the table around until I figured out what would work the best. Was aligned to 0.001" before the tightening up of the table bolts. it is a little better than 0.002" with all the bolts tighten.

It was easier than I expected to drill out the holes. It was harder getting it all secured to the table so nothing would move.

Excellent news. Congrats!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:30 am

That is very good news.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:24 am

dcottrill wrote:Ok, Drill out the left side rear and tried to align the table. Still could not seem to get it aligned. Drilled out the right side rear.

I ended up keeping the front right side bolt tight and was finally able to align the table. It took some experimentation. I left them all loose and floated the table around until I figured out what would work the best. Was aligned to 0.001" before the tightening up of the table bolts. it is a little better than 0.002" with all the bolts tighten.

It was easier than I expected to drill out the holes. It was harder getting it all secured to the table so nothing would move.

I have been known to remove one bolt from a two bolt assembly once it is aligned and use JB Weld around the one bolt and in the hole to secure that location so the bolt or assembly does not move in the future. This leaves the other over size hole for future alignment. JB Weld does not hold up well between two surfaces if there is vibration or pressure present but works really well in this case. I go through several tubes of JB Weld and LocTite every year.

ryanbp01 · Post by **ryanbp01** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 6:06 pm

Maybe I've missed something in reading these posts, but it would seem to me the solution would be to do as what some others have said which is to "sneak up" on a cut? While I probably don't use my machine as heavily as others, it seems to me, to avoid some of the issues associated with table movement.

BPR

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:19 pm

ryanbp01 wrote:Maybe I've missed something in reading these posts, but it would seem to me the solution would be to do as what some others have said which is to "sneak up" on a cut? While I probably don't use my machine as heavily as others, it seems to me, to avoid some of the issues associated with table movement.

BPR

Table movement is not really a problem unless you are attempting to do precision work. By precision I mean accuracy to within 1/64" or closer.

I believe that you need to assume that settings will change by as much as .008" to .010" as the result of system flex and the impact of the locks.

Shopsmith Forums

Main Table Alignment to the Blade

Do you consider table to blade alignment something to be avoided?