Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:I'll strive to do better by reading what I write more carefully before I post. That should give you a great deal of relief.

As a part time writer I know as well as anyone how hard it is to proof read your own writing... If you think a word but fail to type it in (who, me??? ) often if you go right back and read what you wrote your mind will automatically insert the word as you read.
I often "park" things over night and proof read them the next day just to avoid that. Obviously hobby forums are not so demanding. We all understand and forgive each other.


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While I've never had a router table I believe they are generally fixed in the horizontal. Well here is another example of the versatility of the Shopsmith. The table is tilted so as to put a 2.5º chamfer on the edge of a cabinet door.

While I have never owned a router table I believe they are generally limited to the horizontal. The attached is an example of the versitility with the table tilted. This is set up to put a 2.5deg chamfer on the edges of a cabinet door. While the double tilt is nice it is also achievable with the speed increaser and the table tilted to the right at the far right side of the bed.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1394502515

I'm tempted to make one of these (tilting router lift)

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0ois0x6l2L4

Sorry I missed this post the other day. You make an excellent point on the ability on the shopsmith with either using the head stock or the OPR and being able to tilt the table. This is certainly a plus and one of the reasons I have sometimes thought about getting the current version of the OPR (I currently have the older versions with top and bottom routers, a major plus for that version).

Many years back I invested in the Woodhaven Angle Easy (I think maybe in 2003 or so). Even then it was a big ticket item but it did allow me to make angle cuts and solved an issue I had to deal with on a project or two. It more then paid for itself and how I have it if and when I need it.

They currently sell an upgraded version of the one I have and you can see it here:

http://www.woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-1470 ... rchSize=12

Ed

tenbears wrote:While I have never owned a router table I believe they are generally limited to the horizontal. The attached is an example of the versitility with the table tilted. This is set up to put a 2.5deg chamfer on the edges of a cabinet door. While the double tilt is nice it is also achievable with the speed increaser and the table tilted to the right at the far right side of the bed.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=24294&stc=1&d=1394502515

That fellow is very ingenious, he has many videos of tools that he has made.

Back to the original question. "Can the Mark 7 function as a router and router table? " Without a doubt. Now a bit of keyboarding and searches and a quick price on a router table and angle attachment is $400 and up. If you don't have the router another $200 plus and go fancy for a lift say $250 plus. Add a double lift to a MkV and you are ready to start routing, which by the way costs about the same as a basic table and dedicated router motor. But without any use additional floorspace!!!!!! The only inconvience is the quill advance vs a lift system. The quill advance for my needs is plenty adequate to raise the bit. With the adjustable stop collar micro adjust the fence with relation to the bit. What more could we ask for?

tenbears wrote:Back to the original question. "Can the Mark 7 function as a router and router table? " Without a doubt. Now a bit of keyboarding and searches and a quick price on a router table and angle attachment is $400 and up. If you don't have the router another $200 plus and go fancy for a lift say $250 plus. Add a double lift to a MkV and you are ready to start routing, which by the way costs about the same as a basic table and dedicated router motor. But without any use additional floorspace!!!!!! The only inconvience is the quill advance vs a lift system. The quill advance for my needs is plenty adequate to raise the bit. With the adjustable stop collar micro adjust the fence with relation to the bit. What more could we ask for?

Actually for about $350 plus the cost of a router, SS offers a table that attaches to the table. # 555995. Fits in the footprint of the SS. You could also make a table cheaper that does the same thing.

Jack Wilson wrote:That fellow is very ingenious, he has many videos of tools that he has made.

Plus. He uses a Shopsmith! Note him using the sanding belt attachment while making the tilting router lift.

This uses the existing space of a SS. Works for the 505 and on.

Materials
1 Sheet 2x4 melamine ($15)
4 Screw inserts 5/16" (<$1)
4 bolts 5/15" thread (or whatever size you use for the inserts) approx 1" long
4 lock washers
Front and rear floating table rails ($65 plus sh) If you want to use the main table rails for more stability, that bumps the price to about $103
Epoxy

Note--You could just get the rails for a 505 for $24 and attach but it would mean extra work drilling and measuring (not as easy as bolting on the 520 rails)

Also, your choice of router table insert (Kreg, Incra, Etc.) ($60 to $100) and fasteners levelers ($25)

And---
Two SS tables plus connecting tubes. I describe using the main and a floating,
-----------
Cut the shelf in to two pieces, 24 by table depth (approx 21 15/16"??)
Stack and epoxy together.

After cured, cut out the hole for your router plate. (Template with router , jigsaw or whatever!)
If just using the 520 rails,....
on a level surface turn the main table and a floating table upside down with space in between for your router table,
You want the top of the router table aligned with the other tables so why not let gravity replace measuring
Thread tubes through each main table rail
Slide on the "extra" set of rails with holes down and facing each other (since they will attach the router table)
Slide the floating table on to the tubes to make a router table sandwich.
On the sides of the router table, move the extra rails to somewhere near midway (yes I know mine are shown closer to the main table but I got them close using SketchUp when I had the router plate closer to the main table and left them when I moved the insert to the center of the table - in the real world I'd place them closer to directly across from the router for support).
mark the location of the rail fastener holes. See, no measuring!
Disassemble
Locate and drill the holes and insert the thread inserts.
Use appropriate length and thread bolts I may use thread lock to keep the bolts from working loose.
Voila, you have a router table that can use the SS tables for extra space and support and it all fits with in the foot print of the SS. Because you used the rails, it can fit anywhere along the SS.

[ATTACH]24319[/ATTACH]

Double tilt, separate router table, buy SS's table, convert a main table (as did Steve), make your own extension.

Lots of choices at lots of price points!