Shopsmith, Are there shortcomings?
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I, too, find the TS the weakest link of the SS. I've only made one test cut with my used ('83, bought 2 years ago) 500. While I'm sure I'll find occasional use for through 90-degree and square cuts, I'll leave special cuts (angled, beveled, dado, etc.) to my Ryobi BT5000 TS or miter saw as I feel much more comfortable with using either of those.
As far as the other features, the only other thing that comes to mind is that the lathe is so low for me that extended work causes a sore back. I'll make a pair of riser blocks this spring to lift the SS onto when I'm doing much work.
Finally, I wish there were a broader speed range, especially at the low end. I have the speed reducer on my short to-buy list, but it would be nice to not have to add/remove it.
Aloha,
Roy
As far as the other features, the only other thing that comes to mind is that the lathe is so low for me that extended work causes a sore back. I'll make a pair of riser blocks this spring to lift the SS onto when I'm doing much work.
Finally, I wish there were a broader speed range, especially at the low end. I have the speed reducer on my short to-buy list, but it would be nice to not have to add/remove it.
Aloha,
Roy
I will comment. As a new owner of SS(now two) I don't find the tilting table to be a problem. I have not used my standalone TS for sheet goods. For that, I have a good circular saw and long edge guide. I am going to use chiroindixon's idea and make a rolling feed "assistant" with one of my extra table/carriage units.
I have the Incra miter and Miter Express on one SS-it is pretty much the default setup. But, the left end is always available for SPT's. My jointer is there right now. I do have a power stand and the belt sander is usually on it because of dust control. In my basement I can move it away from trouble spots-read furnace. #2 has the Strip sander and Bandsaw set up. mt-PS, another edit. I have a geared hose clamp on the tube so that I can return the TS configuration with no fuss lining up the zero clearance from the Miter Express.
I have the Incra miter and Miter Express on one SS-it is pretty much the default setup. But, the left end is always available for SPT's. My jointer is there right now. I do have a power stand and the belt sander is usually on it because of dust control. In my basement I can move it away from trouble spots-read furnace. #2 has the Strip sander and Bandsaw set up. mt-PS, another edit. I have a geared hose clamp on the tube so that I can return the TS configuration with no fuss lining up the zero clearance from the Miter Express.
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.

Since there have been so many excellent ideas and suggestions posted in this thread, there's not much I can add. But since this is obviously a topic in which there is much interest, Drew and I have decided to devote a Sawdust Session to it. SS #19 (May 10, 2008) will explore how to make mitered cuts through the width of a board, how to make compound cuts, and how to properly support the work when making rips and bevels in long boards. We will provide complete plans for a sled that makes kickbacks impossible when the table is tilted and the newest incarnation of our outfeed table that moves (raises, lowers, tilts) with the main table. This newest design incorporates an anti-gravity device that keeps long stock from sliding downhill when the tables are tilted.
There is one concept that hasn't been mentioned in the last six pages that I will stress in the Sawdust Session.That is, differences in tool designs often demand that you employ different technques to accomplish the same task. This seems like an obvious rule. Both a router and a shaper cut decorative edges, but you wouldn't think of turning the shaper upside down and pushing it along a board as you would a router.You have to use different techniques with each tool to accomplish the same task.
Yet craftsmen often forget this rule when the boundaries are more blurred. You can make miters and bevels on a saw in which the blade tilts and a saw in which the table tilts. Some of the sawing techniques are the same for both tools, but not all. It's my observation that what many craftsmen experience when they complain that the tilting table is "limited" or "not as good" as the tilting arbor is that not all of the tilting-arbor techniques work well with the tilting table. They learn a technique that works well on a tilting-arbor saw by watching someone on TV, try it on a tilting table saw, find it does work as well, and complain the the tilting table is limited. In point of fact, both designs have their advantages and disadvantages but there is little or no difference in their woodworking capabilities provided you understand the proper techniques to use for each design.
The same is true of the diffences in the way the the depth of cut is adjusted -- moving table versus moving blade. Earlier posts have pointed out the advantages of the moving blades without mentioning that on the moving table design, the position of the axis of rotation remains in one place. This makes it much, much easier to set up stopped dado and stopped rabbet cuts on a Shopsmith than other more common table saws.
I come back to the marriage between design and technique. The pictures that we have seen on this Forum prove that the Shopsmith is just as capable as any other woodworking tool. But you cannot always work on a Shopsmith that same way you work on tools of different designs.
With all good wishes,
There is one concept that hasn't been mentioned in the last six pages that I will stress in the Sawdust Session.That is, differences in tool designs often demand that you employ different technques to accomplish the same task. This seems like an obvious rule. Both a router and a shaper cut decorative edges, but you wouldn't think of turning the shaper upside down and pushing it along a board as you would a router.You have to use different techniques with each tool to accomplish the same task.
Yet craftsmen often forget this rule when the boundaries are more blurred. You can make miters and bevels on a saw in which the blade tilts and a saw in which the table tilts. Some of the sawing techniques are the same for both tools, but not all. It's my observation that what many craftsmen experience when they complain that the tilting table is "limited" or "not as good" as the tilting arbor is that not all of the tilting-arbor techniques work well with the tilting table. They learn a technique that works well on a tilting-arbor saw by watching someone on TV, try it on a tilting table saw, find it does work as well, and complain the the tilting table is limited. In point of fact, both designs have their advantages and disadvantages but there is little or no difference in their woodworking capabilities provided you understand the proper techniques to use for each design.
The same is true of the diffences in the way the the depth of cut is adjusted -- moving table versus moving blade. Earlier posts have pointed out the advantages of the moving blades without mentioning that on the moving table design, the position of the axis of rotation remains in one place. This makes it much, much easier to set up stopped dado and stopped rabbet cuts on a Shopsmith than other more common table saws.
I come back to the marriage between design and technique. The pictures that we have seen on this Forum prove that the Shopsmith is just as capable as any other woodworking tool. But you cannot always work on a Shopsmith that same way you work on tools of different designs.
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
This is gonna be great.Nick wrote: Drew and I have decided to devote a Sawdust Session to it. SS #19 (May 10, 2008) will explore how to make mitered cuts through the width of a board, how to make compound cuts, and how to properly support long board when making rips and bevels in long boards. We will provide complete plans for a sled that makes kickbacks impossible when the table is tilted and the newest incarnation of our outfeed table that moves (raises, lowers, tilts) with the main table. This newest design incorporates an anti-gravity device that keeps long stock from sliding downhill when the tables are tilted.
- pinkiewerewolf
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 526
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: Ca. Eureka area.
Thanks Nick and Drew!
I'll be looking forward to this one too.
I'll be looking forward to this one too.

John, aka. Pinkie. 1-520, 1-510 & a Shorty, OPR. 520 upgrade, Band Saw, Jig Saw, scroll saw, Jointer, Jointech Saw Train.
Delta Benchtop planer, Makita LS1016L 10" sliding compound miter saw, Trojan manf. (US Made)Miter saw work center, MiniMax MM16 bandsaw.
Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.

Squire of the Shopsmith. ...hmmmm, maybe knave, pawn, or wretch would be more appropriate for me.

- edflorence
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 673
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
- Location: Idaho Panhandle
Nick...this is one of the reasons I appreciate this forum. Shopsmith (i.e. you) is paying attention to what we are talking about here and responding. As I mentioned in my post, the tilting table "issue" has been on people's minds for decades, and even though it is a non-issue to most experienced users, I suspect we could all profit from an in-depth discussion of tilting table techniques. I suspect that there will in fact be much you can add to the subject, like this anti-gravity thing. I am looking forward to seeing that!Nick wrote:Since there have been so many excellent ideas and suggestions posted in this thread, there's not much I can add. But since this is obviously a topic in which there is much interest, Drew and I have decided to devote a Sawdust Session to it. SS #19 (May 10, 2008)
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Is anyone else aware of any other tool company that has a forum where people can talk about their tools and actually get responses and feedback from company reps? (other than here of course) I'd be curious to find out. I would think if any, it would be pretty small, since most companies are shooting for sales from the big chains or specialty stores(Rockler, Woodcraft, etc.) and concentrate all their efforts with sales/support there.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I don't know if you will find one that gets as much online support from the manufacturer as you get here. But, there are many other forums, woodworking and otherwise.
Try www.rigidforum.com as a starter. .
Try www.rigidforum.com as a starter. .
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
This Sawdust Session will be a good one!!!!
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"Since there have been so many excellent ideas and suggestions posted in this thread, there's not much I can add. But since this is obviously a topic in which there is much interest, Drew and I have decided to devote a Sawdust Session to it. SS #19 (May 10, 2008)"....
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Good Going Nick and Drew! This session may just save us from doing some stupid things! (Or at least Help prevent some).
Understanding the mechanics & Techniques, Techniques, Techniques!
________________________________________________________________
"Since there have been so many excellent ideas and suggestions posted in this thread, there's not much I can add. But since this is obviously a topic in which there is much interest, Drew and I have decided to devote a Sawdust Session to it. SS #19 (May 10, 2008)"....
________________________________________________________________
Good Going Nick and Drew! This session may just save us from doing some stupid things! (Or at least Help prevent some).
Understanding the mechanics & Techniques, Techniques, Techniques!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA