Using the Conical Disk along with the Planer/ Jointer Knife Sharpener

[dusty]

Now if I were to get this jig and wanted to do my jointer knives at the recommended 38 degrees I would then have to adjust the table to what angle?

See photo below for how angle is measured.



The assumption would be the knifes are flat, at least that is my best guess. So with that in mind tell me how to do the setup.

Ed

You can tilt the table in the required direction approximately 7° and then you begin grinding away at the edge of the table. Because there is a cut away on that edge of the table, you might be able to eek out another degree or two of tilt.

Getting the 8.5°s of tilt that you need to bevel the blades at 38° is precarious at best.

I show the jig right on the edge of the main table. By moving the jig to the left (off the edge of the table a small amount) you might be able to get the required tilt. It will be close.

A plumb bob demonstration is needed to confirm how much tilt you could get.

[dusty]

You can't do it Ed. Not without some changes to the jig. I set the table at an 8.5° tilt, mounted the sanding disk and fence along with the jig. I had the jig handing out over the edge of the table about 1/8". I then moved the headstock toward the jig until there was physical contact between the sanding disk and the jig. In that position, the sanding disk was approximately 1/4" away from the cutting edge of the blade meaning that to grind the blade I would also have to grind away at the edge of the jig.

Rethink this. Move the jig further off the table. Nope. That does not help. The interference comes first when the jig contacts the disk. The jig is the problem and not the main table.

This sketch shows what I mean. The jig is shown extending out off the table 1/2". The blade is marked with the 38.5° bevel. The dashed line shows that if you used the sanding disk as we have been discussing that you would need at least 1/8" additional clearance at the bottom edge of the jig.

Table tilt is not part of the problem. The jig makes this approach impractical.

My Conclusion: There has to be a better way.

[reible]

Well it looks like this option is not for me. Thankfully you took this to the next step and we found out now rather then when I had one in hand and ready to grind....

BTW I am unsure if you used a knife width or 11/16" (new) or the lower limit of 9/16" (last usable size)but that could further cut into the problem.

Thank you!

Ed

[dusty]

Well it looks like this option is not for me. Thankfully you took this to the next step and we found out now rather then when I had one in hand and ready to grind....

BTW I am unsure if you used a knife width or 11/16" (new) or the lower limit of 9/16" (last usable size)but that could further cut into the problem.

Thank you!

Ed

Actually, all of my numbers are based on a knife that is 3/4" wide. All I did was eliminate the taper on the Shopsmith blade. Yes, as you reduce the width of the blade the problem compounds.