Shopsmith Forums

The stethoscope effect! Way back when, I learned of this hile working in a garage as a mechanics grunt. I use a long screw driver with a big yellow handle. Touch the point of the screw driver to what is suspected to be the source of noise while holding the handle loosely to your ear.

Quill shaft

Headstock casting right where the idler shaft exits the headstock.

dgreen810 wrote:John

I never tried a wood dowel, but if it works, I will try it. I have been meaning to get a stethoscope but just never got around to it. You can get one at harbor freight for $ 3.99

Don G

I don't know if there is any difference between wood and metal since I have never used a metal rod but the wood works just fine. It wouldn't even have to be a dowel. Just 3/4" cut off a 1 X should work fine.

This is what I have. Got it years and years ago and as I recall it was cheap. It is in my cabinet of auto tools as that was what I got it for. Of course it works for just about anything.
Ed

A stethoscope is probably the preferred method in a wood shop. The wooden dowel or screw driver is some times difficult to keed in position. With the stethoscope, you have both hands free and you can look right at what you are attempting to meter.

Two bearing 'test':(assumes stock SS parts)

1) Check the color of the shaft and the quill body(if both NOT black oxide it ain't a two bearing quill).

2) Remove quill from headstock and LOOK in the back end.(if it is a two bearing, you will see the second bearing - do not mistake the 'spacer' for a bearing).

Not sure what bearings are used in all the versions of the two bearing quill, but it might be possible to determine what bearing is behind the knurled collar and retaining ring. Anything other than a 6202 is NOT a single bearing quill.

Years ago I fought the vibration and noise in my "Goldie" and went down the same road as john. Replaced the drive belt, replaced the Poly belt, bought and installed a 2 bearing quill, and finally brought home a stethoscope from the Caterpillar dealership where I worked and found the problem instantly. Bad main bearings. Replaced all the bearings and no trouble since. Knock on wood.

Don G

Hey JPG,

If they are all black oxide, can I assume they are double bearing quills?


And when you say shaft, do you mean the black hub where you connect all of the SPT hubs and the arbors to or are we walking internal shaft in the headstock?

I have a 1980, 1984 and 1985 Shopsmith from Serial numbers.

I know 1984 starting in Nov was when double bearing quill became standard.

I don't know if the 1980s one was retrofitted or not.

Cheers,
John

Sazerac81 wrote:Hey JPG,

If they are all black oxide, can I assume they are double bearing quills?NO


And when you say shaft, do you mean the black hub where you connect all of the SPT hubs and the arbors toYES or are we walking internal shaft in the headstock?NO

I have a 1980, 1984 and 1985 Shopsmith from Serial numbers.

I know 1984 starting in Nov was when double bearing quill became standard. s/n 19xxxx and above

I don't know if the 1980s one was retrofitted or not.

Cheers,
John

And unless you 'were there' from the git go, you cannot assume anything.

During a search for other saw blades, I found a website that actually lists the Woodworker II with a 1 1/4 in arbor as an option for purchase. Not sure if the price is comparable to having one drilled out specifically for you but figured I would pass it along as the other prices do not seem to be overpriced. http://www.sliversmill.com/product_591_ ... e_for.html

thunderbirdbat wrote:During a search for other saw blades, I found a website that actually lists the Woodworker II with a 1 1/4 in arbor as an option for purchase. Not sure if the price is comparable to having one drilled out specifically for you but figured I would pass it along as the other prices do not seem to be overpriced. http://www.sliversmill.com/product_591_ ... e_for.html

I believe that is probably a good price. The Forrest price for the blade is $145 and they charge $11 for the 1 1/4" bore. Forrest does occasionally put their blades on sale but I have found that the re-sellers almost always have them cheaper than Forrest direct. However the re-sellers typically do not offer the custom bores.