Shopsmith Forums

Here's my first attempt at turning a bowl

dvsmith86 wrote:It has been suggested that the headstock might be vibrating on the rail opposite the clamping lock. How about using a brass screw on the back side?
My headstock has a ⅜-16 hole that goes thru to the rail. I believe a brass screw with a nice knob would serve to clamp it down quite well.

Thank you. Did you drill and tap the hole yourself? I'm hesitant to drill a hole in the headstock.

I've actually gotten used to the vibration noise, if it's still there, because I don't notice it anymore.

Dvsmith86, thanks for posting a photo of your first bowl. I was hoping that members here would post photos their turnings.

Very nice bowl. Much better than my first (second, third, etc...) bowl. I have trouble with going too deep too often. Is that what happened in the center of your bowl? I do that too often, and I have become well versed in making a little finial to glue in the bottom.

What kind of wood it that? Was that done with a 10er?

Thank you. Did you drill and tap the hole yourself? I'm hesitant to drill a hole in the headstock.

I've actually gotten used to the vibration noise, if it's still there, because I don't notice it anymore. [/quote]

My 10E dedicated vertical had a tapped hole when I acquired it. My 10 ER does not. I do not hesitate to modify both to fulfill my needs or wants. I'm not looking for show or factory restored, just useful.

Dansmith wrote:Dvsmith86, thanks for posting a photo of your first bowl. I was hoping that members here would post photos their turnings.

Very nice bowl. Much better than my first (second, third, etc...) bowl. I have trouble with going too deep too often. Is that what happened in the center of your bowl? I do that too often, and I have become well versed in making a little finial to glue in the bottom.

What kind of wood it that? Was that done with a 10er?

I learned many lessons turning that bowl. First, don't start with a whole round piece including the pith or heartwood. Second, remove the bark before turning. Third don't screw your stock directly to the faceplate - use a glue block with a paper joint. I would have known these if I'd watched the many videos on YouTube and looked at the ShopSmith site.

The wood is black walnut from a tree that floated into a friend's yard in our April flood. He was kind enough to cut it into four 6- to 8-foot-long chunks and brought it to me. It was so waterlogged that when I first started turning that chunk, water sprayed massively. I quit, let it dry for about a month, then over the course of about three weeks turned the bowl. Yes, it was done on a 10ER using "bench chisels" not turning chisels. Maybe for Christmas I can get some real lathe gouges, chisels, parting tool and so on.☺

My 10E has a tapped hole on the back side of the casting where a screw could bear on the tube My 10ER does not. I have no real history on either machine as I'm just the current owner. However, if I have a problem, I do not hesitate to modify mine to make it more useful or to overcome wear or looseness due to use or age
I installed a brass screw with aluminum knob on the 10E dedicated vertical because I wanted to stiffen it for light milling of metal.

I dont have a er but here are a couple turnings

Thanks for posting your photos, Hobbyman2. Very nice turnings.

Thanks for your responses, Dvsmith86. Yeah, my 10er's are also for use, not restoration.

dusty wrote: It is most likely "I" who is not using the correct terminology. I am not a turner. The pieces that I was attempting, on all three occasions, just came apart in pieces; like exploded on the lathe simultaneously with me putting a chisel to the turning bowl.

Maybe I should turn table legs and lamps for a while before I attempt bowls.

I do have a speed reducer.

Dusty, this video could shed some light on your blow out problem. The whole video, but especially starting at about 5:50.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HV9C7O0wUjU[/youtube]

I don't know if anyone else has done this, but I was having a really hard time seeing what I was doing on the inside of a bowl. So. I put the toolrest post in the rear hole and adjusted the toolrest to the back inside of the bowl. Then running the spindle in reverse, it was easy to see the tool / part interface.

If anyone is interested in doing this, I can furnish the Amazon link to inexpensive drum switch and a wiring diagram. Most 10 motors are reversable.