Holiday Catalog and NEW dust collector

[redleg]

My first couple attempts were pretty much a waste of my shop time but I think this will prove to be useful. The table will tilt all the way to 45° with the foam installed. The only other thing I would recommend is to make a 1 inch gage block (at least on mine) to set the quill distance while the table is raised all the way prior to tilting to 45°. I also installed reible's sheet metal stops on the lower saw guard.

[algale]

I really like this approach! The use of foam, as opposed to rigid but thin plastic, is a new idea and I think it shows a lot of promise. How is the foam block attached to the front of the lower guard?

Also, as you continue to use this, I will be interested in learning whether the foam's surface tends to catch and hold saw dust. If that is a problem, I could see that a remedy by "upholstering" the foam with some slick vinyl (i.e. "rich, Corinthian leather" ).

[dusty]

The foam is an excellent idea if it will hold up under the rigors of "real world" in the shop. However, my experience with this effort causes me to believe that there is not that much saw dust that over the top.

Plugging the holes that are created by the lower saw guard sliding in and out and deflecting the saw dust that comes over the top with the blade seemed to reduce most of mine.

What was not handled well was that dust that escapes to the top of the table. I don't talk about that much because if would use the upper saw guard (and I won't) I might not have that issue.

I theorize that relocating the dust port in the lower saw guard would help a lot. I would like to see how it would work if the port was moved to the back side rather than where it is on the front side. Think about how the dust that travels in the gullets is discharged. If collected by the dust collector right where it is discharged from the gullets.....

[algale]

The foam is an excellent idea if it will hold up under the rigors of "real world" in the shop. However, my experience with this effort causes me to believe that there is not that much saw dust that over the top.

Plugging the holes that are created by the lower saw guard sliding in and out and deflecting the saw dust that comes over the top with the blade seemed to reduce most of mine.

What was not handled well was that dust that escapes to the top of the table. I don't talk about that much because if would use the upper saw guard (and I won't) I might not have that issue.

I theorize that relocating the dust port in the lower saw guard would help a lot. I would like to see how it would work if the port was moved to the back side rather than where it is on the front side. Think about how the dust that travels in the gullets is discharged. If collected by the dust collector right where it is discharged from the gullets.....

I consider the port's current location to be the back. But I take it you want the port moved closer to what would be the infeed side? I know there was a 500 lower saw guard with dual ports, font and rear. I wonder if that was more effective (in which case why did they abandon it?).

[br549]

I really like this approach! The use of foam, as opposed to rigid but thin plastic, is a new idea and I think it shows a lot of promise. How is the foam block attached to the front of the lower guard?

I was wondering the same thing until I noticed the captions under both pictures which give the installation method for both pieces of foam:

1"x 1 3/4"x 4" I used spray adhesive to attach to the lower saw guard.

Two 1/4"x 5/8"x 13 1/4" scraps of maple, three half inch wood screws, and foam 1"x 4"x 14 1/2"

Something I will have to try on a 500 after the weather warms up!

[reible]

Hi,

The "new" 500 lower guard had only one small port, the "newer" one and a retrofit provided the second port and was due to the the single port being too small and or not working well. I got the first version and it was disappointing in that respect, so yes I forked out the money for the fix. How ever I didn't get much experience with it as I then forked out for the 520 upgrade. The problem with the dual ports was hooking up to them, never got that working well. I personally like the 520 dust hook up better.

Ed

I consider the port's current location to be the back. But I take it you want the port moved closer to what would be the infeed side? I know there was a 500 lower saw guard with dual ports, font and rear. I wonder if that was more effective (in which case why did they abandon it?).

[dusty]

The foam is an excellent idea if it will hold up under the rigors of "real world" in the shop. However, my experience with this effort causes me to believe that there is not that much saw dust that over the top.

Plugging the holes that are created by the lower saw guard sliding in and out and deflecting the saw dust that comes over the top with the blade seemed to reduce most of mine.

What was not handled well was that dust that escapes to the top of the table. I don't talk about that much because if would use the upper saw guard (and I won't) I might not have that issue.

I theorize that relocating the dust port in the lower saw guard would help a lot. I would like to see how it would work if the port was moved to the back side rather than where it is on the front side. Think about how the dust that travels in the gullets is discharged. If collected by the dust collector right where it is discharged from the gullets.....

I consider the port's current location to be the back. But I take it you want the port moved closer to what would be the infeed side? I know there was a 500 lower saw guard with dual ports, font and rear. I wonder if that was more effective (in which case why did they abandon it?).

Absolutely correct. I do not know back from front. The gullets are traveling upward on the "back" side which is where the dust port is located. I would like to see what would happen if it was on the "front" side where the gullets are traveling downward so that the dust/chips would be discharged right into the mouth of the dust collector port.

[reible]

After my couple of "fixes" the dust is a lot more controlled from the bottom but I still have two more additions I will be making once it warms up. One will be a baffle inside and the second a rear deflector.

From my videos it would appear now must of my sawdust is coming from above the table. I have not addressed that yet but I do know that a zci helps a lot and I have not put one in and taken videos so that too will be a warmer weather project.

I have also looked briefly at the shark guard, thing is the mounting hardware is too thick for the thin kerf blades I use. Well that and the expense, lots of bucks for it..... I do have my own version that I built years ago but it needs some tuning or improvements in design based on what I have seen, it does help but not enough.

It is going to warm up some the next few days so I'll turn the heater on and get some shop time but the dust collection issue will not likely get worked on. But if I do find the time I'll do the baffle thing.

Ed

[sehast]

After my couple of "fixes" the dust is a lot more controlled from the bottom but I still have two more additions I will be making once it warms up. One will be a baffle inside and the second a rear deflector.

From my videos it would appear now must of my sawdust is coming from above the table. I have not addressed that yet but I do know that a zci helps a lot and I have not put one in and taken videos so that too will be a warmer weather project.

I have also looked briefly at the shark guard, thing is the mounting hardware is too thick for the thin kerf blades I use. Well that and the expense, lots of bucks for it..... I do have my own version that I built years ago but it needs some tuning or improvements in design based on what I have seen, it does help but not enough.

It is going to warm up some the next few days so I'll turn the heater on and get some shop time but the dust collection issue will not likely get worked on. But if I do find the time I'll do the baffle thing.

Ed

I had shark guard (Leeway Workshop) make me a special splitter to work with very thin kerf blades. I am sure they can accommodate whatever you need if you want to go that route.

[jsburger]

After my couple of "fixes" the dust is a lot more controlled from the bottom but I still have two more additions I will be making once it warms up. One will be a baffle inside and the second a rear deflector.

From my videos it would appear now must of my sawdust is coming from above the table. I have not addressed that yet but I do know that a zci helps a lot and I have not put one in and taken videos so that too will be a warmer weather project.

I have also looked briefly at the shark guard, thing is the mounting hardware is too thick for the thin kerf blades I use. Well that and the expense, lots of bucks for it..... I do have my own version that I built years ago but it needs some tuning or improvements in design based on what I have seen, it does help but not enough.

It is going to warm up some the next few days so I'll turn the heater on and get some shop time but the dust collection issue will not likely get worked on. But if I do find the time I'll do the baffle thing.

Ed

Have you looked lately? He offers a spliter that is 0.090". If that does not work I am sure he will make you anything you want as Sehast said. Yes they are pricey but I have never seen that stop you when you wanted something. Besides his workmanship is absolutely first rate. Yes, they make a HUGE difference.