Shopsmith Forums

I’m not going to replace the quill unless there’s something wrong with it.

Geez, I’m not an idiot, I didn’t bang on it like an anvil.
You can tap it on both sides at once with two hammers to jar it loose,
while prying on it without damaging it.

I’ll try and find a bearing separator, or I’ll have to grind it off.

If you have an automotive store in your area that lends tools you might want to check out what is some time called a pickle fork. Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25202-B ... +fork+tool

This one is large like for ball joints, they have smaller sizes for things like tie rod ends. Just make sure you have one large enough to go over the shaft (5/8") And thin enough to get between the stuck parts.

You can also pull the quill out of the machine. Just watch that the spring is unwound slowly or it will unhook. If you need help with doing that let us know. It would be a lot easier to work on then the whole headstock.

At some point you may have to stop worrying about not damaging the bearings and just plan to replace them. Bearing replacement is pretty painless when it is compared to other tasks. It is quite possible if the machine has been used a lot that the bearings needs replacement anyway.

Ed

JPG wrote:Heat/wedge.

Not sure what tapping on sides with two hammers means???

As a mechanic and farmer I know this one. An auto alignment shop will use that process many times a day to disassemble front end parts without having to heat them. Tie rod ends are one of the most common applications since they are normally a taper fit that has been tightly drawn together and stayed like that for years. In that case you hold a large hammer like a hand sledge tightly up against the ring of the steering arm and "whack" the opposite side of the ring with another hammer which distorts the ring (almost microscopically) which makes the mount let go. Obviously on a Shopsmith quill you want use much more finesse but the concept is the same. Firmly tapping both sides at exactly the same time avoids too much side push.

I have slept since I last read all of this thread but do recall that you used an Evaporust soak but have you done an electrolysis process soak? I have used it on some very stuck tractor items over the years. I use a 55 gallon plastic drum but you could use something a bit smaller...


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