Shopsmith Forums

Dusty you posted a pix of two different types of bushing. Where did you get them? Or where could I obtain one with a version of set screw?. I'm still not convinced that the issue can not be remedied with a larger set screw at the already present screw/washer that holds the bushing.

Ron

The one with the full length split came from Shopsmith along with a new (dual bearing) idler shaft assembly. The other was in my Mark V (the Shorty) which I have rebuilt.

Look at the pictures closely. The screw and washer that goes into the headstock prevents the eccentric from creeping. The other screw and washer are in the eccentric and prevents the eccentric from creeping.

The setscrew in the eccentric along with the old style bearing secure the eccentric to the bearing.

There is no doubt a way to resolve your problem but I see no way without parts of one kind or another.

I can not speak for the retaining clips that eityher Brenda or JPG mentioned. I have never seen them in real life. Need to buy an old Greenie I guess.

I can measure mine if you want to make one.

dusty wrote: Look at the pictures closely. The screw and washer that goes into the headstock prevents the eccentric from creeping. The other screw and washer are in the eccentric and prevents the eccentric from creeping.

I'm guessing what you meant to say here is the other screw and washer are in the eccentric and prevents the(bearing/idler shaft) from creeping.

Virbage is everything !

thunderbirdbat wrote:I can measure mine if you want to make one.

Thank you for the gracious offer..but I have devised a altered washer method for now. As I see it the only concern here is that the shaft does not travel out of the headstock. I haven't even asked, or considered what are the ramifications of the shaft moving inward too much, or even any at all! Cause stress in the control button, quadrant assembly or "pork chop" bearing premature wear on control button???? I put a call in to SS 4 hours ago, Got the standard "we are receiving a high volume of calls da, da, da, recording1 left message and number. Hoping they can clarify the cornucopia of eccentric bushings. And how to find the part number on the correct one for my machine.

Anyways I appreciate your offer. I have an old greenie with the clip installed.

In assembling my machine for the umpteenth time! I came across a problem That I was experiencing on the Greenie until I realized I had to engage the spring release, to get the speed dial, to go to fast.

Well this 88 520 has a different set up. spring behind the speed dial plate (the one with the settings embossed on it).

The problem I'm having is I cant get the dial to spin to fast. It will go to slow one way , and only G or jointer the other way. In the process of setting the high speed stop I noticed this.

Any one else have this issue?

Have you determined that you did not inadvertently put the "88" eccentric in the greenie? That would explain the 'Early Greenie' eccentric now being in the "88".

With the water pump bearing it is impossible for the shaft to creep in/out of the bearing.

I agree verbiage is important. I say again the screw/washer that is located in a tapped hole above the eccentric serves to prevent the eccentric from creeping outward from the headstock. The 'new' screw/washer that are located in a tapped hole in the eccentric serves to prevent the bearing from creeping outward from the headstock.

The idler sheave and motor belt maintain constant outward force to the idler shaft so everything must resist that outward force. That force on the shaft is passed on to the bearing and eccentric in that order.

That is the reason I think a larger washer under the screw above the bore in the headstock will work assuming it does not interfere with something.

IIRC you were unsure if the parts of the two SS might have gotten intermingled. Hence the ? re what is in the Greenie.

JPG wrote:Have you determined that you did not inadvertently put the "88" eccentric in the greenie? That would explain the 'Early Greenie' eccentric now being in the "88".

no chance

JPG wrote:With the water pump bearing it is impossible for the shaft to creep in/out of the bearing.

JPG not sure why you mention this as the shaft creeping out of the bearing has never been a concern or issue

I agree verbiage is important.

JPG wrote: I say again the screw/washer that is located in a tapped hole above the eccentric serves to prevent the eccentric from creeping outward from the headstock. The 'new' screw/washer that are located in a tapped hole in the eccentric serves to prevent the bearing from creeping outward from the headstock.

Yea.. what I said in my last post not what dusty said.

JPG wrote:The idler sheave and motor belt maintain constant outward force to the idler shaft so everything must resist that outward force. That force on the shaft is passed on to the bearing and eccentric in that order.

That is the reason I think a larger washer under the screw above the bore in the headstock will work assuming it does not interfere with something.

That is what I have come to believe also. The water pump bearing has a ridge around the outer circumference so I made the washer so it only captures that ridge. Seems to be working fine. As a matter of fact. With the Allen bolt around the water pump bearing ,and eccentric bushing, tightened to flatten the lock washer only.. the bearing/idler shaft, moves freely in/out of the headstock!

My only issue now is how to set the speed control dial to fast now that I have adjusted the high speed stop screw.

At this point I would do a complete High speed adjustment.

Thanks JPG. I thought I was. I don't have a tach. So I use the belt position on the motor pulley method. It's just that after I set the stop screw, and tighten the nut..The dial won't spin to "fast" before re-installing the speed control handle. I must be missing something. I've read several post concerning this procedure nothing mentions this. They just say "after setting the screw turn the dial to fast". Is there another way to do a "complete" high speed adjustment?