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Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 12:02 am
by edward
And if it can't?
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 12:32 am
by JPG
edward wrote:And if it can't?
The reason you needed a 'Puller" was to allow access to the 'back' side of the bearing and to pull on it in a straight line off the shaft.
The opposite is needed to 'push' a new bearing onto the shaft. It is VERY IMPORTANT to NOT apply 'pushing' to any thing except the center race of the bearing(this is the collar which slips onto the shaft and eventually rotates WITH the shaft). NEVER push on the outer race(THIS IS THE PART WHICH DOES not ROTATE WITH THE SHAFT) OR the area between the two races.
It is also important to 'push' straight and NOT get the inner race 'cocked' on the shaft.
You need something which will apply force only to the inner race in the proper direction. This can be a tube of some sort of the right dimensions. The puller part which contacted the 'back' side of the bearing MAY allow this, but I am NOT familar with it to say for sure. A short sleeve may be used and the sleeve/shaft/bearing set on TOP of a vice jaws(open to clear the shaft but NOT the sleeve) and gentle tapping(think wooden mallet so as not to damage the end of the shaft) to advance the bearing onto the shaft.
I am sure Bill Mayo can describe this better than I have if I am too far off or you are anxious about this(or any one else who has a better description/idea/method...).
bearings
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 3:24 pm
by rcoder
Don't forget the old dry ice and your wife's blow dryer. Put the shaft in a container with dry ice and heat the bearing with the blow dryer. Remember not to cook out the lubricants (most hair dryers are not hot enough). I have had a lot of success with this technique.
Bob
Willcox, AZ
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 3:53 pm
by mickyd
edward wrote:Yes, I have the exact same one. Already replaced power cord. Pulled the wires before anyway said something. Hasty. Hasty.
So I'm suspecting that I'm up a creek with the locations for these new bearings...is that so?
Pics tonight... I hope.
1. The bearing locations are either up against a shoulder OR up against a snap ring.
2. The bearing tool you bought will be used to "pull' the bearings up against the stops.
3. Remember what I said in post #34.
Up against a shoulder
[ATTACH]3486[/ATTACH]
Up against a snap ring
[ATTACH]3487[/ATTACH]
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 4:30 pm
by dusty
mickyd wrote:1. The bearing locations are either up against a shoulder OR up against a snap ring.
2. The bearing tool you bought will be used to "pull' the bearings up against the stops.
3. Remember what I said in post #34.
Up against a shoulder
[ATTACH]3486[/ATTACH]
Up against a snap ring
[ATTACH]3487[/ATTACH]
I'm having trouble identifying what you have pictured here. Could you cross reference the photos to the appropriate Exploded Views in the catalog. It would be greatly appreciated.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 4:42 pm
by JPG
dusty wrote:I'm having trouble identifying what you have pictured here. Could you cross reference the photos to the appropriate Exploded Views in the catalog. It would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry Dusty! It ain't in any current exploded view! It is a 'Gilmer' version of the drive shaft(think top shaft in headstock). The skinny end is the shaft which sticks out the LEFT side of the headstock. Think SPT hub. The other end connects to the quill spline.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 4:44 pm
by RobertTaylor
dusty, what he is showing is the upper/main drive from the gilmer headstock. i recently got to see it first hand while visiting bill mayo. previously i did not understand the clutch drive that he has covered many times in the forum. many thanks to bill for teaching me over two days at his shop.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 4:44 pm
by mickyd
dusty wrote:I'm having trouble identifying what you have pictured here. Could you cross reference the photos to the appropriate Exploded Views in the catalog. It would be greatly appreciated.
REF #56 Drive Sleeve Assembly for a Gilmer drive system, not a poly-v
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 4:51 pm
by dusty
Thank you for clearing this up for me and I apologize. If I had followed the thread more closely, I would have known we were working on a Gilmer.
At least I feel better. It was hard for me to accept that I could not identify that significant a part in my Mark V.
I just have to get me an old headstock to tear down and rebuild. Maybe I could sell the "But, honey, it is vital therapy" approach to she who holds the key to the cash vault.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:23 pm
by bucksaw
dusty wrote:Thank you for clearing this up for me and I apologize. If I had followed the thread more closely, I would have known we were working on a Gilmer.
At least I feel better. It was hard for me to accept that I could not identify that significant a part in my Mark V.
I just have to get me an old headstock to tear down and rebuild. Maybe I could sell the "But, honey, it is vital therapy" approach to she who holds the key to the cash vault.
Not worth the expense. Your looking at the only difference in the photos.