Shopsmith Forums

Years ago I used Hammer-rite brand paint. If I remember right it seemed like it had something like a "grit" in it that made the hammered look.
About a month ago we had a project at work that used many cans of the Rustolum Hammered paint. I was convinced after using it all day they achieve the hammered look by adding some kind of oil to the paint.

One thing I neglected to mention above is to depress the 'button' fully when applying the paint. This allows all the different pigments etc to flow in the correct ratio. If you push it partially, it feeds a different mix and you get a more 'uniform' color. Perhaps the 'oil' is missing then.

Something causes the different pigments to disperse and create the hammered effect.

cincinnati wrote:Years ago I used Hammer-rite brand paint. If I remember right it seemed like it had something like a "grit" in it that made the hammered look.
About a month ago we had a project at work that used many cans of the Rustolum Hammered paint. I was convinced after using it all day they achieve the hammered look by adding some kind of oil to the paint.

I believe it's silicon oil that causes the texture on the Rustoleum. Heath knows.

JPG40504 wrote:Been thinking of using kitchen oven, but did not know about temperature. THANK YOU!

Not recommended when SWMBO is either home or about to return soon!:eek:

Ain't gals a lot more concerned about stuff than us guys?

mickyd wrote:Ain't gals a lot more concerned about stuff than us guys?

Gotta admit hammertone 'flavored' cake does not appeal to me either!

I recall that someone suggested washing down the parts with acetone before painting. I have no acetone on hand, but do have some denatured alcohol (I also have some "natured" alcohol but would rather drink that). Will this work just as well?

mmorris wrote:I recall that someone suggested washing down the parts with acetone before painting. I have no acetone on hand, but do have some denatured alcohol (I also have some "natured" alcohol but would rather drink that). Will this work just as well?

Main thing is to get it clean(no dust/dirt/oil/grease...) Just about any solvent will work(even soap&water - dry it completely).

As I'm planning on doing some painting tomorrow, I have several more questions about using Hammered paint;
1. Before painting, I'm assuming that you mask off the part of the headstock where the belt cover mates?
2. Should the belt cover and motor cover screw holes be masked off and if so has anyone perfected a technique?
3. Should any other areas be masked off or not painted?

[quote="mmorris"]As I'm planning on doing some painting tomorrow, I have several more questions about using Hammered paint]
1 - Masking not necessary. Overspray not a problem unless too thick.

2 - Not necessary. Tapped holes easily cleared with screws.

3- Those holes where things are inserted/slid. i.e. way tube holes,quill hole, quill feed holes, lock holes, any set screw hole(top, quill feed). Go easy with paint on the area the speed control mounts.

It is best to work in stages. Apply a light coat over the entire headstock, without worrying about creating the hammertone effect. Just get an even coat. After about a half hour, position one surface horizontal. Shake can vigorously to blend different parts of the paint, and press button completely down and apply a fairly heavy coat. Overlap passes.Shake often. Be aware tip creates a fan shaped spray pattern(do not move can up/down - only move side to side. This requires some technique. Do not rush it. Let it sit several minutes and observe the hammered effect develop. Do not let the surface just painted get vertical(running will occur) for at least 15 minutes.

Then turn another surface horizontal and repeat. After 15 minutes, rotate another surface to horizontal and repeat again. Continue until all surfaces are 'done'.

Allow to dry overnight, and inspect for uneveness. Repaint those surfaces you are dissatisfied with.

After the first light coat, the 'trick' is to get it on thick and even and allow it to set so as to not run.

After a couple of passes you will acquire the 'knack'.

When 'rotating'/positioning for a different surface, be careful to not disturb any wet surfaces. It helps to provide a means of proping it up in the different positions.

A long 5/16-18 screw in the quill set screw hole(top of headstock) makes a good handle. Just be aware it may rotate on the screw while handling it. A lightly snugged nut on the inside prevents rotation.

Although I said 'horizontal' above, when painting the sides(where the quill feed holes are) you may prop it up by the screw mentioned above thus positioning it nearly horizontal(ya do not want to set it on the other side if wet. When painting the end, it can set on the belt cover flange.

Do not rush it. Do not worry if at first you do not like the result - it can be re coated. Do not try to 'touch' up any area you do not like after it sets for more than a minute or two. This stuff needs to be applied heavy and evenly and attempting to 'touch it up' while tacky will create an effect you will not like(the light overspray around the 'touched up area' creates a different texture that is not what you want).

Good Luck Be Patient

Thanks, JPG. That's very helpful.
When you don't like an area and you are recoating it, you wait for it to dry and then respray, right? You don't attempt to wipe the paint off right after you spray it, corrrect?