Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:Do not know the answer, but the following may be clues: Do they have the same # of 'points'? Do they sell/provide you with a 'matching driver bit'? A no to the first and a yes to the second would indicate they are NOT torx.

I do not know whether "star" and "torx" are one in the same or not but I got hooked on torx during a work assignment toward the end of my working career. I was responsible for the field installation of communications equipment (GPS and radio) on Public Safety vehicles. In this operation we found ourselves driving a lot of screws into heavy sheet metal. Phillips drivers just did not do the job. Square drives were a lot better bot then I found torx.

I caught hell for it but I equiped the entire installation team with their own sets of torx drivers and I replaced all the hardware in the installation kits with the appropriate metal screws. Installations actually began passing on first inspection.

I became a real believer.

Do they have a place in woodworking. Maybe. Maybe on some of the really hard woods.

I don't have a large assortment of torx but the ones I do have are six pointed stars (thus, a star bit I believe).

http://www.wihatools.com/Marketing/torxspec.htm

JPG40504 wrote:Do not know the answer, but the following may be clues: Do they have the same # of 'points'? Do they sell/provide you with a 'matching driver bit'? A no to the first and a yes to the second would indicate they are NOT torx.

Their screw heads have six "points" and yes they provide/sell bits. However, the bits are T10, T15 etc. Not sure what all this means.

lv2wdwrk wrote:Their screw heads have six "points" and yes they provide/sell bits. However, the bits are T10, T15 etc. Not sure what all this means.

T10, T15, etc. are Torx sizes.

a1gutterman wrote:T10, T15, etc. are Torx sizes.

Guess what the 'T' stands for!!!:D The name(torx) is a good name for them since they really really give you the ability to deliver high torque to the screw. They MUST be hardened to take it though. I think they are an adaptation of 'bristol' headed set screws. Same principle(straight sides flutes(POINTS)) WHICH DO NOT CAM OUT LIKE A PHILLIPS.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I have heard good and bad about Mcfeely's which seems to be the go to internet supplier. Any feedback? Any other options?

Ed,

for anyone that lives around maritime activities, I would suggest visiting the railways and boatyards that do a lot of re-fastening for wooden boats. the people who do that work for a living should have really good recommendations for sources of wood screws to avoid or buy from. if Tampa still has any wooden boat builders left, then they would be an excellent source for recommendations about bits matched to screws.

also, if you are lucky enough to still have any old-fashioned hardware stores left, this is probably a great item to get from them and support your local business.

Ivan

Hi, Bob! I drill the counterbore either first or second. Either way will work. The following is a purely academic discussion.

If I want the screw hole to be in the exactly pre-determined spot, I'll drill the pilot hole first, the shank hole second and the counterbore (if there is going to be one) third. If the counterbore is a wee bit off, no matter - as long as the plugs look like they line up. This is the way I usually do it. If a mistake is made drilling the pilot hole - it is easier to fill than the counterbore.

If the most important thing is to have the screw plugs exactly lined up, I'll drill the counterbore first. This will work also, as the pilot hole bit will find the center as made by the brad point. But I usually don't do it this way/

reible wrote:After reading the chapter I noticed at least a few things that beginners are not going to know and should be noted.If I get some time later this week I'll show you a neat trick or at least it will save you some setup time... I'd do it now but I've got to get to bed.

Goodnight all,

Ed

Did you post that trick? I went thru the thread and did see it. Also doing pocket holes, what is the correct angle for the table? 20 degrees?

Hi,

Looks like you caught me... for got all about it. Actually I have a lot of tricks I've picked over the years and maybe some time I do a posting of a few that might be handy around the drill press... not sure when I'll get to it but if you keep checking back it just might appear.

I normally do the pocket holes with a Kreg jig but I do believe the angle is 15 deg. Maybe someone here can verify that or I bet a simple google search could provide that information.

Ed

nomoman wrote:Did you post that trick? I went thru the thread and did see it. Also doing pocket holes, what is the correct angle for the table? 20 degrees?

reible wrote:Hi,

Looks like you caught me... for got all about it. Actually I have a lot of tricks I've picked over the years and maybe some time I do a posting of a few that might be handy around the drill press... not sure when I'll get to it but if you keep checking back it just might appear.

I normally do the pocket holes with a Kreg jig but I do believe the angle is 15 deg. Maybe someone here can verify that or I bet a simple google search could provide that information.

Ed

Maybe you make your own thread of "tricks". I thought I read in the PTWFE that it was 20 degrees. And something about a lever block.