Shopsmith Forums

HopefulSSer wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 11:00 am I've been using a mix of BLO, urethane and mineral spirits like discussed by Scott Markwood here

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OvfKgNtxsR4

Thanks. Yeah, I remember that vid now and he did mention Penetrol, which JPG and others have advocated for before here. I still need to try it and have been delinquent in giving it a go. Later in the vid, I liked Scott's statement on does one need a jointer or not:

"If your plan is to do furniture making or cabinetmaking, meaning that you are going to be preparing a lot of square stock, the jointer is critical." - Scott Markwood

Now to that I would add the subtext that face jointing is just as critical as edge jointing.

And IIRC he says Penetrol is probably mostly BLO. Wouldn't surprise me...

BuckeyeDennis wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 11:09 am Is it practical to seal up your shop reasonably tightly?

It could be done, but I don't have the budget to replace 4x 3'x2' windows at the moment. There's not a good surface for that plastic heat shrink "winterization" stuff to adhere to.

If/when I do any cabinetry projects, I'll likely source the lumber from a good hardwood lumberyard that I've been to before. I started woodworking with a loaned '80s MK5, and at that time I made some nursery furniture for my first kid. First piece, the cradle, was made from lumber from HD. The other two pieces were sourced from Clark's hardwood lumber in Houston. Bit of a drive, and I'm never in the area when they're open, but it was well worth it for the changing table and crib. The dimensional lumber was smooth enough that I didn't really have to sand it before finishing, unlike the stuff from HD which took a lot more work. I likely paid way a bit much for the lumber and I definitely overbought, but I had the money to spend then. Now money is a bit tighter, but I still have some lumber left over from that purchase (including a full sheet of 3/4" red oak plywood), which I may make a dresser to sit in the bed space of the crib sometime soon. I'll be sure to take the advice here though and face plane the face frame pieces, at a minimum.

I've been digging through the newowner information and the everything mark 5/v threads, trying to find a digital copy of the jointer manual, but I haven't found anything yet. I have a digital copy of the bandsaw owners manual and the illustrated parts guide, but now that the site has changed, I'm not sure I could find them both out there again.

It doesn’t look like the current Shopsmith Jointer Manual is available as a digital download, a paper version can be purchased.

https://www.shopsmith.com/manuals-information/

However, if you search for the Magna 4” jointer you will find a pdf version for that model. For basic operations that manual might be sufficient.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=18511

Parts lise/diagram for the jointer on the new site is here.

https://www.shopsmith.com/service-parts/jointer

It appears the jointer owners manual is not available for download (yet?) but you can buy a printer copy here.

https://www.shopsmith.com/manuals-information/

jsburger wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 10:52 pm Parts lise/diagram for the jointer on the new site is here.

https://www.shopsmith.com/service-parts/jointer

It appears the jointer owners manual is not available for download (yet?) but you can buy a printer copy here.

https://www.shopsmith.com/manuals-information/

LOOKING GOOD...KEEP GOING

adrianpglover,

For an older copy of an Owner's Manual for the Jointer look under Maintenance & Repair for Shopsmith Large Format Drawings Illustrations and more near the top of the list. There is a link to Everett's Google Drive and under Jointers there is a PDF copy of the 1964 Magna 4" Jointer Model 620-C Owner's Manual. That should get you started as the basic functions and operation hasn't changed much over the years. It has the current part numbers, but some have changed over the years so use the links already provided to get current part numbers. Keep in mind that there have been some changes/upgrades over the years so your Jointer may have some or all of the newer features not shown in that older Manual.

The link for a Manual benmcn provided is for the Model 4E made for the Shopsmith Model 10E and 10ER. Again, the functions are mostly the same as the Model 620-C I gave the link for but the Part Numbers are the older, no longer used at all numbers. Because it was made for the Model 10E and 10ER it mounts different and so there are parts that are not the same as a regular SPT mount Jointer.

The only complete Owner's Manual the old website had, to my knowledge, was the Bandsaw's besides the Summary Manuals for the Mark's. It appears even the Bandsaw Owner's Manual is no longer available as a PDF on the new site unless I haven't found it yet..

adrianpglover wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 9:15 pm I've been digging through the newowner information and the everything mark 5/v threads, trying to find a digital copy of the jointer manual, but I haven't found anything yet. I have a digital copy of the bandsaw owners manual and the illustrated parts guide, but now that the site has changed, I'm not sure I could find them both out there again.

Adrian,

Last time I checked the Files section of the Shopsmith Owners Group on FB had all of the Shopsmith manuals, including SPT's like the jointer. I hate FB, but it is an option if you really need a manual. I think ALL owner's manual (for every product) should be free and available online in electronic versions.

RFGuy wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 7:32 am I still say that IF one properly acclimates a board after near dimensioning (before final dimensioning) and then assembles the panel, there is a MUCH greater chance of NO cupping irrespective of whether it is a 3" or 6" wide board IMHO. I do believe many of the cupping issues reported in woodworking are less about the width of the board or internal stresses and more about rushing to finish a project and not giving the wood proper time to move. Also why you need to start with thicker lumber and plane/joint down to final dimension or else you will have a 1/4" thick board, but flat & straight board, to build with in the end. IF you want a project to cup, go out and buy green lumber, cut it right away and assemble it immediately.

Stumpy just released a video today that supports my assertion above. It doesn't matter what width board is used in a panel - if you are impatient and don't let the moisture content in the wood acclimate to the intended destination of the furniture, warping/cupping is inevitable IMHO. I suspect 99% of warping/cupping complaints of woodworkers are the result of this.