Shopsmith Forums

Tim

I use the 520 primarily for dadoing. The Mark 5 has the strip sander attached.
These are the normal configurations when I am not using them for other things. I have decided to keep the powerstation with the band saw set up.
Mark

Before we install the molding around the panels we need to insert the hinges.This mini press is over 20 years old and still going strong. KKKKKnocking on wood. First pass it drills the 3 holes for the hinges. Then you place the hinge in the insertion ram and it presses it into the holes.

[ATTACH]4251[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4249[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4250[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4252[/ATTACH]

Mark

Definitely a machine I'll never own! Pretty slick none the less! I assumed those were all done by hand.. I guess you never know!

mbcabinetmaker wrote:I like to use space balls in the panels of the doors. Cut the door panel 1/4 inch smaller than the space. This allows 1/8 inch all the way around the panel. I use 8 space balls per door.

[ATTACH]4246[/ATTACH]


Mark

I am confused! If panel has 1/8" clearance all around, how do what appear to be 1/4" space balls fit? Do they embed into the panel and rail when clamped, or are they 'soft' and pliable?

JPG40504 wrote:I am confused! If panel has 1/8" clearance all around, how do what appear to be 1/4" space balls fit? Do they embed into the panel and rail when clamped, or are they 'soft' and pliable?

Are the space balls 1/4" in actual dimension or are the space balls designed to fill a 1/4" gap when used as described?

Actually, it was never said how big the space balls are]http://www.spaceballs.com/faq.html[/url]

Dusty,

I think that having the space ball pictured (post #49) sitting in one of the grooves referenced (post #44) in the earlier post is where the ball size came form.

mbcabinetmaker wrote: This post is about setting up the Shopsmiths to run the rails and styles. I set up the 520 to run a 1/4 inch groove 1/2 of an inch deep.

Yes they are 1/4 inch in diameter but are soft and pliable and designed to squeeze down and then expand back to original size. They are designed to move as the wood moves so to speak. That is not a problem with the 1/4 inch plywood panels but is with solid wood. They keep raised panels centered and keep them from rattling.

Mark

Before we hang the doors there are a couple of roll out shelves that need to be installed. They have to be built out 1 3/4" beyond the face frames to clear the hinges. This is my system.

[ATTACH]4261[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4262[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4263[/ATTACH]

Mark

The procedure for adding the molding around the panel is basically the same as running the English bead. I think I mentioned before that the doors are sized to allow 1/16th inch all the way around. I start with a shim of that size and set the door on it. I then reach over or through the back and screw the hinge plates in place. A helper would be nice for this job. In this second picture you can see that I have added a door stop at the top. I also set the bottom of the cabinet up 3/8 of an inch. This gives us a door stop on the bottom as well.

[ATTACH]4264[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4265[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4266[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4267[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4268[/ATTACH]

We are about to a stopping point until the flex molding comes in. Just a few shelves to cut and edge band. Normally I would have lined bored all the cabinets that get shelves but the homeowner wanted fixed shelves. We compromised on just setting the shelves on a single shelf pin. The ability of leaving the shelves out will be a great help to the painter.
I will take this project all the way through installation so check in occasionally for more progress.

Thanks
Mark

WHEW! What a difference a little trim makes. Those doors are georgeous. The trim OUTSIDE the door edge really sets them off. Thanks for this education you are providing for free!!!!!!:)