Shopsmith Mark V11????
Moderator: admin
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:10 am
-
- Silver Member
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:18 am
- Location: western oregon
Use it. or take the cover plate off the back side and shine a lite inside. if it looks ok, it probably is. if it is hard to change speeds, the sheaves may need oiling.mark-b wrote:I may look at a mark vii for $125 tomorrow. Not being real familiar with this machine. What is the best way to see if the speed cam is melted?
Mark
BTW from what I have read, the cam only melted when the cam follower [or whatever it's called, little u shaped piece] was not lubed and overheated. with routine maintenance this won't happen.
mike
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:10 am
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:10 am
Mark VII - A very neat story
I've been researching the Mark VII for a long time. My father’s Mark VII was handed down to me a few years ago. The Speed Control CAM has always been the heart of my M7. Yes, the CAM was melted when I got it. I made temporary repairs, however they were never quite good enough for me. The major contributor to the CAM "melting" lies in the CAM follower (AKA the sheave control assembly). There is a press-fit bearing, a cam follower, and a one piece rod/sheave. The bearing is in direct contact with the CAM. When the bearing fails, it gets hot. While using the M7, the speed control is set to one position for a period of time. After the bearing has degraded enough; it will heat up; and the single point of contact between the cam follower and cam is where the damage will occur. I hope the attached picture helps. After considering the design and implementation, it occurred to me that the cam might have been designed to melt upon the failure of the press-fit bearing. The operator would know there was a problem without additional damage to the M7.
- Attachments
-
- Sheave-ControlAssyDetail00.JPG (48.85 KiB) Viewed 3387 times
~Ryan
- wlhayesmfs
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:50 am
- Location: Broken Arrow OK
I still don't have a MKVII yet either, close but no cigar, saw one close and he wanted $100 for it, I was the second caller and the first one came and got it. ER's are not to hard to get wtih Speedcontollers on them for around $100 to $150, I find most of those in KC on Craigs list. My elderly Dad has put his foot down on picking any up for me and saving them for me to come get them. After 6 he is done. So last time I had found two in one day and set up to drive to KC and pick up two ER plus benches and take them apart and put them into my Druango and bring them home. So if you have time and a weekend to travel they are there. Farmer has put no telling how many miles picking up his machines and has told some great stories about his findings over the years I have known him on the groups. So really it is the fun and hunt plus it makes some nice day trips.
Bill
Broken Arrow OK
MKV, 510, MKVll, 50th Anniversary 520 with Jointech saw train, Bandsaw, scroll saw, joiner, 6" Sander,Stand Alone Pin Router and Router Table, Strip Sander, Jigsaw & (4) ER's plus Jigsaw for ER. DC SS RAS

Broken Arrow OK
MKV, 510, MKVll, 50th Anniversary 520 with Jointech saw train, Bandsaw, scroll saw, joiner, 6" Sander,Stand Alone Pin Router and Router Table, Strip Sander, Jigsaw & (4) ER's plus Jigsaw for ER. DC SS RAS
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
[quote="ryansm7"]I've been researching the Mark VII for a long time. My father’s Mark VII was handed down to me a few years ago. The Speed Control CAM has always been the heart of my M7. Yes, the CAM was melted when I got it. I made temporary repairs, however they were never quite good enough for me. The major contributor to the CAM "melting" lies in the CAM follower (AKA the sheave control assembly). There is a press-fit bearing, a cam follower, and a one piece rod/sheave. The bearing is in direct contact with the CAM. When the bearing fails, it gets hot. While using the M7, the speed control is set to one position for a period of time. After the bearing has degraded enough]
Yes, the problem isn't really with the cam melting... It is not being able to order a new one and a spare...
I keep thinking I will take a cam off and take it to someone with a CNC mill and price having a few made but I just can't seem to get around to it. The replacements someone was once having made were cast aluminum rather than machined as I understand it.
As you indicate I suspect that if it did not melt when the bearing failed it might destroy the whole speed control or at least bend the speed control knob shaft.
I suppose that good maintenance in this case would involve regular replacement of the bearing whether it was failing or not. On a Mark VII or a Mark V even without the bearing failing the temperatures can raise pretty high inside of the headstock during hard long run use. I have long given thought to installing a blower at the rear inspection port blowing filtered fresh air into the headstock (with maybe something like a 3" muffin fan) which would exit out the bottom slots and around the left side shafts. It would use something like a small automotive pleated air filter to keep dust out. It would also pressurize the inside of the headstock slightly which would keep dust from migrating in through other openings. It should make all of the headstock components run considerably cooler. By blowing directly on that cam it might even be enough to prevent it from melting before the bearing started making noise and you knowing it was getting bad. It would be about a $10 fan and a $2 filter...
Yes, the problem isn't really with the cam melting... It is not being able to order a new one and a spare...

I keep thinking I will take a cam off and take it to someone with a CNC mill and price having a few made but I just can't seem to get around to it. The replacements someone was once having made were cast aluminum rather than machined as I understand it.
As you indicate I suspect that if it did not melt when the bearing failed it might destroy the whole speed control or at least bend the speed control knob shaft.
I suppose that good maintenance in this case would involve regular replacement of the bearing whether it was failing or not. On a Mark VII or a Mark V even without the bearing failing the temperatures can raise pretty high inside of the headstock during hard long run use. I have long given thought to installing a blower at the rear inspection port blowing filtered fresh air into the headstock (with maybe something like a 3" muffin fan) which would exit out the bottom slots and around the left side shafts. It would use something like a small automotive pleated air filter to keep dust out. It would also pressurize the inside of the headstock slightly which would keep dust from migrating in through other openings. It should make all of the headstock components run considerably cooler. By blowing directly on that cam it might even be enough to prevent it from melting before the bearing started making noise and you knowing it was getting bad. It would be about a $10 fan and a $2 filter...
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Homebuilt Cam
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.