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Nice job
Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:01 am
by dlbristol
Wow! The idea is great, but as a former teacher, I am more impressed with the way you presented the whole thing. I could have used this as a "how to" example for any teacher I ever supervised. You got our attention, kept us thinking the whole time, got us to the critical information and left us looking for ways to use what you taught us! Any master teacher would be proud of such a lesson. Thanks
PS. As a novice, I really didn't know what you were building, I figured it was a jig about 1/2 way thru, but I could not leave it alone. had to come back often to see what you were doing.
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 12:57 pm
by osx-addict
Ed... I had this posted in another thread but thought it might be better captured here in case someone wants to build one of these..
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I might just have to fab one of those jigs up if I can pull it off.. Looks super flexible in what it can do!
By the way.. What sort of double-sided tape is that you're using in that thread? I'm going to place an order from Lee Valley but wasn't sure if it was one of the types they carry
here..
Is
thisthe T-track you used (3/4" wide x 3/8" deep) which accepts 5/16" or 1/4" bolts or similar...? I looked to see if Lee Valley has it but theirs has different dimensions.. I've got a Rockler nearby and could pick a few of those up easily..
Hmm.. Rockler even appears to carry the
UHMW plastic.. I guess you'd want their #1125 which has a piece 3/4" X 4"X 48" and save the left overs for another project..
By the way.. What's the smallest you can get that jig to go down to w/o using the corner pieces? I'm guessing you can shrink it down pretty well -- perhaps down to the width of the guide bushing?
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:33 pm
by reible
osx-addict wrote:Ed... I had this posted in another thread but thought it might be better captured here in case someone wants to build one of these..
------------------
I might just have to fab one of those jigs up if I can pull it off.. Looks super flexible in what it can do!
By the way.. What sort of double-sided tape is that you're using in that thread? I'm going to place an order from Lee Valley but wasn't sure if it was one of the types they carry
here..
Is
thisthe T-track you used (3/4" wide x 3/8" deep) which accepts 5/16" or 1/4" bolts or similar...? I looked to see if Lee Valley has it but theirs has different dimensions.. I've got a Rockler nearby and could pick a few of those up easily..
Hmm.. Rockler even appears to carry the
UHMW plastic.. I guess you'd want their #1125 which has a piece 3/4" X 4"X 48" and save the left overs for another project..
By the way.. What's the smallest you can get that jig to go down to w/o using the corner pieces? I'm guessing you can shrink it down pretty well -- perhaps down to the width of the guide bushing?
Hi,
Sorry I missed the other post but you are right this might be the best place for it.
About the tape, I like the 3/4" wide kind for applications like this. Of course the wider tape will work but.... As far as where I get my tape, I have been getting it from Pricecutters but they have merged with Eagle so I can't be sure it is the same tape I like or not without making another purchase. If you have the Eagle catalog it is on page 72, item #447-7150 3/4" x 108 feet, $9.99 each or 2+ for $9.49 or get lucky and find it on sale.
The T-track was from Rockler but is pre the universal one they now have. I'd say mine was at least 8 years old, I had gotten 4 four footers and stored them for a while. The newer track should work the same but I've not tried it.
The last UHMW plastic I got from Peachtree but it all the same stuff, you can price it at places like Amazon and see if you can get a better deal. If you go local make sure to measure, I've gotten some short 4' lengths a few time.
I've never tried to make as small an opening as possible but the design should let it go fully closed. I can check if you would like me to?
If you happen to make one please share your design and take plenty of pictures, and good luck with it!
Ed
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 1:19 pm
by osx-addict
Thanks Ed.. I picked up the universal T-tracks yesterday from my local Rockler.. I only bought the 2' long versions as that seemed fine for my uses although I suspect I could upgrade to 4' models if need be later if I'm working larger items -- are yours 2' or the full 4' in the pictures? It's hard to tell. Should I just bite the bullet and get the 4' version now? hmm..
I did find the plastic there as well but it was not the 4' long pieces listed in the catalog -- it was 2' only which should be fine for my purposes.
I still need to dig up a router table insert for use w/ the 1/4" router bit and may need a new collet for my PC table router as well since my current collet only takes 1/2" bits. I'm not sure where to get one along over the weekend -- I didn't see any listed at Rockler's website.. I do see a reducer if I drive further to Woodcraft but may check the local Rockler anyway..
P.S. No need to see what the smallest size is.. It should work fine for me
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 8:27 pm
by reible
Hi,
Mine are 24" and that should be good for most things (inside dimensions are less).
A couple of quick items on guide bushings. If you get Porter Cable ones the barrel lengths are designed for certain Porter Cable jigs. If you have the jigs that is fine but if not then you might want a set with just shorter barrels. Jigs can be made out of thicker materials but it is a lot easier to sand and finish thinner material such as 1/4" MDF or the like. For this you need bushings that are less then 1/4" long. These are (lower case) porter cable like bushing that fit the base plate 1-3/16" hole and 1-3/8" counter bore... and are called 1-1/4"
Rockler has two sets listed:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1521
This set has different length barrels.......
as does this set:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10671
Woodcraft has a set with the shorter barrels shown here:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Produc ... f2c7e99df4
If you want more details let me know.
Ed
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 12:28 pm
by osx-addict
Thanks Ed.. I've not yet bought any guide bushings but did place an order w/ Amazon today for the reducer plate for my router table which is a Jessem Mast-R-Lift I got at Rockler 5+ years ago.. The Rockler guy says they no longer sell Jessem stuff that is made in Canada and have outsourced the Jessem 'like' stuff to Chinese manufacturers. He said I've got a better unit than what they sell today.. Go figure!
Anyway, the order from Amazon will be here mid-week but I'll still need the guide bushings for my hand-held Dewalt DW610.. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the hand-held will be used for doing the actual cutting with the jig once I'm done -- correct?
Also, for the hardware on the jig -- specifically the nuts and I think washers.. Are those nuts regular nuts or the kind with plastic injected in the end (not sure what they're called) that are more difficult to tighten. Also, the T-Track bolts I bought from Rockler were 2" long (the longest they had) since I knew they needed go through a fair amount of plastic block.. However, in looking at your photos closer, I'm wondering if you're using 3" bolts.. ? Good thing I've not opened anything yet..
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:58 pm
by reible
Hi,
I think some of your questions can be answered if you go back to the beginning of the thread. The size of the wood and plastic are listed. Reviewing some of the photos will show the plastic parts as a block before I cut them to size just before drilling. They were left overs but if you have a (strip) long enough that would work even better.
Once you have the jig made then it is probably easiest to work hand held routers. I don't own any DeWalt routers so I am not familiar with what system they use for guide bushings or if they have a conversion kit so that porter cable type bushings can be used.
The hardware is from the plumbing department. The parts are normally used to attach a toilet but happen to work quite well for making jigs and fixtures. They have a selection of lengths and materials, I think maybe even different diameters. I think they might be about 2-1/4" long but I'd have to check.
Ed
osx-addict wrote:Thanks Ed.. I've not yet bought any guide bushings but did place an order w/ Amazon today for the reducer plate for my router table which is a Jessem Mast-R-Lift I got at Rockler 5+ years ago.. The Rockler guy says they no longer sell Jessem stuff that is made in Canada and have outsourced the Jessem 'like' stuff to Chinese manufacturers. He said I've got a better unit than what they sell today.. Go figure!
Anyway, the order from Amazon will be here mid-week but I'll still need the guide bushings for my hand-held Dewalt DW610.. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the hand-held will be used for doing the actual cutting with the jig once I'm done -- correct?
Also, for the hardware on the jig -- specifically the nuts and I think washers.. Are those nuts regular nuts or the kind with plastic injected in the end (not sure what they're called) that are more difficult to tighten. Also, the T-Track bolts I bought from Rockler were 2" long (the longest they had) since I knew they needed go through a fair amount of plastic block.. However, in looking at your photos closer, I'm wondering if you're using 3" bolts.. ? Good thing I've not opened anything yet..
Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:30 pm
by osx-addict
Thanks Ed.. Oh Crap!

I didn't realize toilet bolts could be used for this purpose.. (all puns intended). I might have some lying around..
I did realize the sizes after I wrote the note.. Oh well.. I think I'm good for now.. The only thing I don't have is a vix bit.. but I think I can probably do without that.. I'll post some pics when I get around to starting this (after my parts come in this week)..
Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:45 pm
by osx-addict
Ed --
A question for you that was eluded to but I can't find the details.. How are you connecting the wood to the plastic? I know with screws and I believe you put 5/16" holes through the wood pieces but what bolts/screws are being used to connect the two? I'm stumped!
Here's the holes I drilled through the wood like you did (this is your pic but mine look the same)
Sorry -- it wouldn't inline the pic..
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:06 pm
by osx-addict
Doh! RTFP! I went back and read post #9 and he mentions (and shows) the use of the Kreg pocket hole bit which of course has a tapered end.. I believe the intent is to use it to drill most of the way through the wood -- just enough that there's a small hole in the other side in which the screw can protrude and penetrate into the plastic.. I guess I'll be purchasing another $2 1x2x8' piece of wood to re-make my wood pieces.. Oh well.. I should have read it closer.. Now that I've got my Kreg jig, I can use the same bit..
