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Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:10 am
by dusty
reible wrote:OK, again read the information that Incra provides:
"Place the Miter V120 in your Shopsmith’]lock[/color] the Miter V120 into your miter
slot. This will allow you to use the Miter V120 as a guide for horizontal boring or disc sanding."
The design intent is to lock it in place. As you read farther it mentions that if over tightened to flip it over... if it is still not working then I would contact Incra and talk to Mark. It could be they have a material or design problem???
For reference see:
http://www.incra.com/manuals/MiterV120_Manual_ShopsmithEdition.pdf
Setup item 1
Ed
Thank you, Thank you.
It works like a charm. Maybe even better than the tapered setscrew method. I wondered, when I put it together, why the "O" ring?
I've always had a problem with not reading the instructions thoroughly. Hmmm... I wonder how many more of my problems would go away?
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:26 pm
by keakap
dusty wrote:It works like a charm. Maybe even better than the tapered setscrew method. I wondered, when I put it together, why the "O" ring?
Now I'll have to go look. If the bar deforms as INCRA suggests, it will deform after being flipped as well. There Must be an easy way to substitute a stronger material...
And in the meantime I definitely will keep my SS miter gauge at hand.
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:30 pm
by keakap
dusty wrote:
Locking the miter bar in place is an occasional requirement. Easily resolved!
Don't get rid of the old miter gauge.
(and if need be, set the angle on the old, with the new.)
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:51 pm
by dusty
keakap wrote:Now I'll have to go look. If the bar deforms as INCRA suggests, it will deform after being flipped as well. There Must be an easy way to substitute a stronger material...
And in the meantime I definitely will keep my SS miter gauge at hand.
The part we are talking about is only about an inch long. If it deforms, it won't be much. Just turn it over, as they suggest, and go on with life as it was.
If this is an issue, it is one that can easily and cheaply be corrected.
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:26 pm
by keakap
dusty wrote:
If this is an issue, it is one that can easily and cheaply be corrected.
That's it! You got it-- cut a replacement bar out of a penny!
Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:01 pm
by rkh2
Woodcraft has the V120 miter gauge on sale until July 21 for $69.99. This is not the SS version so does anyone know if it can be modified to fit into the SS T Tracks without any major modifications needed? I read through this entire thread and am not clear as if this will be workable or not. Not a bad price and I have an opportunity (Woodcraft Gift card) which would make this purchase possible if it would be adaptable. Any help answering this question will be appreciated. Thanks.
Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:34 pm
by fjimp
rkh2 wrote:Woodcraft has the V120 miter gauge on sale until July 21 for $69.99. This is not the SS version so does anyone know if it can be modified to fit into the SS T Tracks without any major modifications needed? I read through this entire thread and am not clear as if this will be workable or not. Not a bad price and I have an opportunity (Woodcraft Gift card) which would make this purchase possible if it would be adaptable. Any help answering this question will be appreciated. Thanks.
Prior to Shopsmith and Incra introducing the Shopsmith version I ordered one of these jewels from Incra that was built to be used with the shopsmith tables. However did not come with Shopsmith hold down. Once the shopsmith version was introduced I found I had to order another complete version from Shopsmith as I could not get the parts needed to adapt it. This being said I ordered the complete version from Shopsmith and use it almost daily. I love it and except for those rare occasions when I come across the useless version that is incomplete am thrilled. I realize some will ask if I ever tried to purchase the part from Shopsmith and if they were willing to sell those parts to me. Yes and NO. Fjimp
Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:39 am
by dusty
rkh2 wrote:Woodcraft has the V120 miter gauge on sale until July 21 for $69.99. This is not the SS version so does anyone know if it can be modified to fit into the SS T Tracks without any major modifications needed? I read through this entire thread and am not clear as if this will be workable or not. Not a bad price and I have an opportunity (Woodcraft Gift card) which would make this purchase possible if it would be adaptable. Any help answering this question will be appreciated. Thanks.
Ypu can get the
parts required to make the V120 compatible to the Mark V table from Incra but why. Isn't it cheaper to buy a Shopsmith version V120 from Incra or Shopsmith. The bar that you need is PV12-700150 and sells for $22.95.
You won't have the Safety Grip bit I believe that can be ordered from Shopsmith. There are a couple parts, not shown in the Incra IPB, required to mount the Safety Grip on the V120. Customer Service should be able to do this for you.
FWIW: I hardly ever use the SS Miter on the Mark V anymore. They have been reassigned to the Belt Sanding and Router Table.
Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:35 am
by robinson46176
Some tools are worth having "Just because".
.
accuracy and repeatability
Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:22 am
by jimsjinx
During the "Bed from Hell" project, I had to make 12 perfect dead nuts accurate tennons to fit my mortises. I tend to cut them first, then pare the holes to fit snug. I have never found a miter guage that was dead on. It, for me, depends on the way one pushes the work THROUGH the cut. I always keep the pressure on the miter guage in the same direction, ie, towards or away from the blade, as I push the material through the cut. I have seen aplenty of guys complain that thier guage,"never cuts straight". While observing them making a cut, I could see them concentrating more on the foreward movement of the work, more than keeping the guage pushed tight in the miter slot, right or left. Then, when you check the cut, it wanders off the intended cut a tiny bit. For a tennon, this could mean a gap at the top or bottom of the assembled joint. I used the Ridgid table saw to cut them, using the incuded miter guage, and the tennons were right on. jimsjinx