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billmayo
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10ER Replacement Motor

Post by billmayo »

Nice looking motor. I would believe if you tried to move the headstock all the way to the left, the motor capacitor may hit your nice looking platform. I had a 10ER motor where the capacitor had been moved over on the side of the motor for clearance on a flat platform but you have plenty of clearance where the headstock is located in your picture and may never have this problem. I believe this topic was discussed by Skip Campbell on the Yahoo Group Shopsmith10ERusers forum.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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Post by ------------------------ »

Yea that recess is looking to be handy! When I built the table out of old oak flooring there was a hindged cover over it and I kept tools in there. It was a real pain as it only opened an inch or two, so I ripped it off. My main concern with the motor is that the vents will be on the top side.
Mark
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

mark-b wrote:Yea that recess is looking to be handy! When I built the table out of old oak flooring there was a hindged cover over it and I kept tools in there. It was a real pain as it only opened an inch or two, so I ripped it off. My main concern with the motor is that the vents will be on the top side.
Mark
I have cut a soda can or any metal can ends out and then down the side to make a flat or curved piece of metal. I normally use small nuts for spacers and a couple sheet metal screws to hold the metal piece over the vent holes. I also make covers for fans on the end of DC motors by just cutting the ends out of a larger can and use 3 nuts for spacers and sheet metal screws to hold this fan cover to the motor. A good pair of metal cutting shears can really be handy for making these unique shields or covers.

I found that cutting a 3 1/4" hole (have this hole saw for the greenies) in the end of the motor pan and installing a 4" louver plate (half of a 4X8 vent plate) with a fine screen helps keep the whole headstock fairly free of sawdust and the whole headstock operates cooler. The motor pan is a very hard metal to cut so it takes time to do this. Contact me for a more detail explaination of why I did this modification. Now a disclaimer.

Shopsmith has not approved or support this change so do so at your own risk.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Bill, every time you post I learn something or hear an idea I would have never thought of!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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Post by ------------------------ »

Thanks Bill!
I need to get the motor wired up and see if the air actually blows through the motor ( in which case I would be more concerned with the intake end ) or if it just moves air with no clear direction and proceed from there. The motor was only $69.00 so if I only get a limited life out of it, I won't be overly concerned.
Mark
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Post by ------------------------ »

She runs again!
I put a new double pole switch in (thanks for the info. Ivan) Changed the polarity on the motor and put a 30' grounded cord on it (now I can plug it directly into an outlet instead of searching for an extension cord) The cord is grounded @ the switch and motor. Just have to finish up the little parts and then I will be moving on to Shopsmith #3, which is my 3rd ER. I am thinking of cutting the ways at about 30" and making a shortened Shopsmith that will be dedicated to the jigsaw, jointer, and turning bowls.
Mark
The motor condensor clears the headrest side by 1/4"
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

What size of 30' cord did ya use?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

mark-b wrote:Yea that recess is looking to be handy! When I built the table out of old oak flooring there was a hindged cover over it and I kept tools in there. It was a real pain as it only opened an inch or two, so I ripped it off. My main concern with the motor is that the vents will be on the top side.
Mark
Well this post may have just bummed me out!!! When I put my motor back together, I assembled it so that the vents would be facing UP, figuring that they were there for heat dissipation. Since heat rises......... Was I wrong to do this? I assumed the fins on the rotor created a positive air flow through the motor and out the vents, preventing dust from entering.....NO????
Mike
Sunny San Diego
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Post by ------------------------ »

Hey Bob!
I wired in the plug half of a 14 gauge flourecent green extension cord. Green, so that I can tell it apart from the other cords running around my shop.

Hey Mike!
Didn't mean to bum you out. I just think crap falling into the vents may cause an early demise.
Mark
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

mark-b wrote:Hey Bob!
I wired in the plug half of a 14 gauge flourecent green extension cord. Green, so that I can tell it apart from the other cords running around my shop.

Hey Mike!
Didn't mean to bum you out. I just think crap falling into the vents may cause an early demise.
Mark

looks LIKE YOU'LL BE OK WITH THAT GAUGE AND LENGTH OF CORD.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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