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nawww
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 1:05 am
by fiatben
As tempting as that is, I'm a firm believer in "if it aint broke, don't fix it." Unless changing out the bearings offered some form of noticeable improvement. I may regret that decision, but I'm content to start making sawdust until such day as a bearing lets me know it's time to go, and then I might do 'em all at once. I'm still just a bit intimidated by all things mechanical and prefer to not take a chance on getting it wrong at this point. Besides, doesn't the SS manual say something about the bearings being for the "life of the machine" and I expect mine to last forever.
But I do appreciate your advice and you can bet I'll be leaning on it heavily over the coming years.
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:18 am
by wannabewoodworker
That is your choice and I understand your apprehension. If they were for life then you would not here so many guy's changing bearings out when they rebuild these things. They do wear out and every one of the three I have needed bearing replacements and it was quite easy to do with the right tools.
Still lookin'
Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:46 pm
by fiatben
I am still looking for a manual for the biscuit jointer. Does anyone have a PDF of this? Or should it be intuitive enough for someone like me to just hook it up and go?
Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 1:55 pm
by JPG
fiatben wrote:I am still looking for a manual for the biscuit jointer. Does anyone have a PDF of this? Or should it be intuitive enough for someone like me to just hook it up and go?
Probably! Make note of the 'pins' (adjustable)that help hold the workpiece and the three marks that indicate the amount of penetration for the three sizes of biscuits. Make sure the cutter does not scrape anything after mounting it on the quill.
missing a pin
Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:30 pm
by fiatben
JPG40504 wrote:Probably! Make note of the 'pins' (adjustable)that help hold the workpiece and the three marks that indicate the amount of penetration for the three sizes of biscuits. Make sure the cutter does not scrape anything after mounting it on the quill.
Are the pins you refer to the ones of which I have one missing?
[ATTACH]12426[/ATTACH]
Guess I need to go check what those cost, or else figure a way to fabricate one. Any suggestions, guys?
EDIT: (Because a seperate post did not "post")
Meanwhile....
Started trying to revive the miter gauge by removing the bar, popping it into my Zyliss vise and taking a brass wire wheel to it. It was heavily corroded and some of the pitting is deep.
[ATTACH]12423[/ATTACH]
It will function reasonably after this cleaning, but I'm contemplating if I should try to flatten it, like the back of a plane iron, at risk of it becoming a hair shallow, or just wax the bar and the miter slot regularly. Any thoughts?
The corrosion on the extension table tubes and posts is pretty bad also. Here is one tube after running half of it past the brass wire wheel.
[ATTACH]12424[/ATTACH]
I have some concern as I'm sure I'm stripping off whatever plating it originally cames with. Any ideas on how to proceed? Does anyone make some kind of home chrome-plating kit?
Good news is that the way tubes responded nicely to a light hand-sanding with 500 wet/dry. I'd do the same to the bench tubes but most of their plating is still intact and they work fine with a bit of crud on them since they are just support. Still, if someone knows how to clean them up without losing that finish, I'm all ears.
[ATTACH]12425[/ATTACH]
Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:03 pm
by JPG
fiatben wrote:Are the pins you refer to the ones of which I have one missing? YES
[ATTACH]12426[/ATTACH]
Guess I need to go check what those cost, or else figure a way to fabricate one. Any suggestions, guys? Chuck up a long screw and file a point on it.
EDIT: (Because a seperate post did not "post")
Meanwhile....
Started trying to revive the miter gauge by removing the bar, popping it into my Zyliss vise and taking a brass wire wheel to it. It was heavily corroded and some of the pitting is deep.
[ATTACH]12423[/ATTACH]
It will function reasonably after this cleaning, but I'm contemplating if I should try to flatten it, like the back of a plane iron, at risk of it becoming a hair shallow, or just wax the bar and the miter slot regularly. Any thoughts? I think it will work well even if 'pitted'.
The corrosion on the extension table tubes and posts is pretty bad also. Here is one tube after running half of it past the brass wire wheel.
[ATTACH]12424[/ATTACH]
I have some concern as I'm sure I'm stripping off whatever plating it originally cames with. Any ideas on how to proceed? Does anyone make some kind of home chrome-plating kit? The inside is what matters any way. The outside only matters to the fence. IMHO smooth is good enough.
Good news is that the way tubes responded nicely to a light hand-sanding with 500 wet/dry. I'd do the same to the bench tubes but most of their plating is still intact and they work fine with a bit of crud on them since they are just support. Still, if someone knows how to clean them up without losing that finish, I'm all ears. The finer the abrasive, the better. As you said, it really is non-functional!
[ATTACH]12425[/ATTACH]
Is the miter gauge bar bent or just pitted??
P.S. I cannot get to mine now, but I cannot remember if those pins were screws or smooth.
Miter bar
Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:17 pm
by fiatben
While I haven't really checked it thoroughly, the bar appears to be flat, just very pitted on the bottom side.
However, now that you mention it. The bar on my 500 is definitely bowed. I guess it's had one too many encounters with the floor. Has someone put up a thread about straightening out miter bars? I really don't see just banging on it with a hammer until it looks straight.
Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:34 am
by JPG
fiatben wrote:While I haven't really checked it thoroughly, the bar appears to be flat, just very pitted on the bottom side.
However, now that you mention it. The bar on my 500 is definitely bowed. I guess it's had one too many encounters with the floor. Has someone put up a thread about straightening out miter bars? I really don't see just banging on it with a hammer until it looks straight.
It needs bending, not beating!:D
how?
Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:30 pm
by fiatben
JPG40504 wrote:It needs bending, not beating!:D
Recommended procedure?? I can see putting it in a vise and ending up over-correcting or ending up with a wavy bar. Been looking for a replacement on evil-bay but too much moolah for my resources.
Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:05 pm
by spiderclimber
fiatben wrote:Recommended procedure?? I can see putting it in a vise and ending up over-correcting or ending up with a wavy bar. Been looking for a replacement on evil-bay but too much moolah for my resources.
I have an extra I can send your way. Don't buy one yet.