Shopsmith Forums

holsgo wrote:So, after combing the radialarmsawrecall.com site it looks like Emerson Tool Company made these saws. Emerson also makes Ridgid who also has radial arm saws. And..the parts are available on ereplacementparts.com. So, I'm sure you can get a Ridgid part for your saw once the guys help you figure out exactly what part you need.

http://www.emersontoolcompany.com/en-US ... fault.aspx

I saw that Emerson made this saw and it is eligible for the safety upgrade. While I might could get parts for the Ridgid saw, I have never seen an electronic version like I have. I also believe that if I need new circuit boards the price could be prohibitive.

That said, I would keep trying to diagnose it someone can steer me in the right direction and answer the concerns I listed above.

Just as an example, thisis the kind of stuff available in my area. There are many others listed at less than $150.

tdubnik wrote:Just as an example, thisis the kind of stuff available in my area. There are many others listed at less than $150.

But you don't know what sort of problems that "one time good deal" may bring with it.

Here is a link to the manual for your radial arm - just in case you need it. The troubleshooting seems to be detailed and there is a complete parts list included.

tdubnik wrote:I saw that Emerson made this saw and it is eligible for the safety upgrade. While I might could get parts for the Ridgid saw, I have never seen an electronic version like I have. I also believe that if I need new circuit boards the price could be prohibitive.

That said, I would keep trying to diagnose it someone can steer me in the right direction and answer the concerns I listed above.

The quality of the circuit boards presented here seem to be pretty good and the saw is old enough that the parts are not modern day electronics. Anyone good with a multimeter and a soldering iron could repair the boards - given they had parts.

dusty wrote:But you don't know what sort of problems that "one time good deal" may bring with it.

Here is a link to the manual for your radial arm - just in case you need it. The troubleshooting seems to be detailed and there is a complete parts list included.

Dusty,

The link didn't show up.

I just caught up with this thread...

It seems that if you measure voltage on the motor brushes and it is wired like you show in the schematic, then it ought to turn. Can you turn it by hand? Make sure it is not binding. If the armature winding (the part the brushes connect to) is open circuit, then it won't run. You can check that with an ohm-meter across the place where the brushes make contact.

The motor looks like a "universal motor" (runs on both AC and DC); running it on DC allows you to reverse it, but somehow the schematic posted looks a bit "funny" with the field winding (stationary part) in series with the AC. It's definitely not a stepper motor (I used to work for Superior Electric, so I am really familiar with steppers).

The two black square devices are definitely Hall sensors; you need two to determine if the motor is going clockwise or counter clockwise.

The diodes (cylindrical objects with stripe) should probably be checked, but like others said, no signs of burning.

The key is the motor; if you can get it to turn, then there is hope for fixing the controller.

Good luck. Don't give up!

[quote="johnm"]I just caught up with this thread...

It seems that if you measure voltage on the motor brushes and it is wired like you show in the schematic, then it ought to turn. Can you turn it by hand? Make sure it is not binding. If the armature winding (the part the brushes connect to) is open circuit, then it won't run. You can check that with an ohm-meter across the place where the brushes make contact.

The motor looks like a "universal motor" (runs on both AC and DC)]


John,

Thanks for the post. The motor does turn easily by hand.

It seems like this is the place to start and the first thing I need to determine is whether the motor actually works. My first question would be how do I do that?

I have a multimeter and I can take measurements. If someone could point out on the pictures where to measure and what readings I should expect; that would be a good start.

tdubnik wrote:Dusty,

The link didn't show up.

Because I did not put it in. It is here now.

[quote="tdubnik"]John,

Thanks for the post. The motor does turn easily by hand.

It seems like this is the place to start and the first thing I need to determine is whether the motor actually works. My first question would be how do I do that?

I have a multimeter and I can take measurements. If someone could point out on the pictures where to measure and what readings I should expect]

Make sure it is unplugged before doing any of the resistance measurements below!

I'd start at the "AC in" terminals you show in one of your earlier pictures. Put the multimeter on "ohms" (lowest range if you need to set it) and you should see a few ohms (close to zero since the motor is mostly wire). If it looks "open" (very high ohms), reverse the leads and see what you get.

To check the armature, remove the brushes if you can and put the multimeter probes on the commutator (the thing the brushes ride on, slotted copper thingy) where the brushes contact and you should see low ohms there. If not the armature may be open circuit. That might be "game over".

Good hunting.

Is there a part number and manufacturers name on the motor.

Are there any other identifying bits of information on the motor like operating voltage and current.