Shopsmith Forums

As has already been pointed out, the end of the stem bottoms out(tops out?) in the bore of the piston and does not touch the upper raceway.

The bore is just under 1 5/8" deep.

My official SS casters just arrived.

[ATTACH]14413[/ATTACH]

As can be seen, pretty much identical to what I sourced. The grip ring on the SS one is a little beefier, but I imagine its just tweeking of the part number.

I measured the template they provide - it has you move the holes 1 3/4" higher (on center, along the diagonal as you would expect).

bigal1948 - Is that the same as your template?

damagi wrote:My official SS casters just arrived.

[ATTACH]14413[/ATTACH]

As can be seen, pretty much identical to what I sourced. The grip ring on the SS one is a little beefier, but I imagine its just tweeking of the part number.

I measured the template they provide - it has you move the holes 1 3/4" higher (on center, along the diagonal as you would expect).

bigal1948 - Is that the same as your template?

And version x from e-bay.

[ATTACH]14415[/ATTACH]

longer stem makes the drill height 2 1/8". I think the top of wheel to bottom end of stem is larger also. Final determination was 1 7/8" with 6 washer spacers added between caster and piston.

For what its worth, I was thinking about the comment regarding the casters not rising very much. Certainly that is a problem if the holes are actually drilled too high. I think I have run into this using the standard instructions for the casters on my planer. Only the "highest" setting i(e: setting 2) actually raises the unit off the floor.

However, assuming they are drilled correctly, you are limited by the dimmensions of the cams in the pedal assembly.

edit: fixed typo

damagi wrote:For what its worth, I was thinking about the comment regarding the casters not rising very much. Certainly that is a problem if the holes are actually drilled too low. I think I have run into this using the standard instructions for the casters on my planer. Only the "highest" setting i(e: setting 2) actually raises the unit off the floor.

However, assuming they are drilled correctly, you are limited by the dimmensions of the cams in the pedal assembly.

The cam lobes lower the piston 1/4" and 1/2". When raised(piston), the casters just barely clear the floor. The angle of the leg affects the 'ground clearance' in all three positions.

High hole in the leg will cause less leg to ground clearance in the raised positions.

I just installed my genuine SS casters using the genuine SS instructions - big disappointment. As noted by other posters, the hole configuration indicated on the template is incorrect it seems. It places the caster assembly too high, such that the wheels just barely touch the ground in position 1. In position 2 it acts like position 1 would - ie: off the ground enough for a perfectly smooth/flat floor, but not enough for parts of the floor where it gets a little uneven.

As noted, this is the second time I have hit this issue by following the SS templates. The first time when putting casters onto a pro planer stand.

Current recommendation - don't buy the casters from SS until they get this template issue fixed.

damagi wrote:I just installed my genuine SS casters using the genuine SS instructions - big disappointment. As noted by other posters, the hole configuration indicated on the template is incorrect it seems. It places the caster assembly too high, such that the wheels just barely touch the ground in position 1. In position 2 it acts like position 1 would - ie: off the ground enough for a perfectly smooth/flat floor, but not enough for parts of the floor where it gets a little uneven.

As noted, this is the second time I have hit this issue by following the SS templates. The first time when putting casters onto a pro planer stand.

Current recommendation - don't buy the casters from SS until they get this template issue fixed.

Get some 7/16" flat washers. pull the caster out, and insert some(as many as it takes)(3?) on the post so that the bottom of the piston rests on the washers when loaded. There should be slightly over 1 / 16" slop when 'unloaded'. The slop is the post sliding in the retention ring groove(in/out).

This will lower the caster in all three positions. The added washers should be just enough to allow the caster to drop to the floor in the fully raised position, but not allow any weight to bear onto them.

I had to add washers on my brand x casters since the post was longer and the ends square, not ball shaped like the 'original SS issue'. The washers allow fine tuning of about .070" each.

JPG40504 wrote:Get some 7/16" flat washers. pull the caster out, and insert some(as many as it takes)(3?) on the post so that the bottom of the piston rests on the washers when loaded. There should be slightly over 1 / 16" slop when 'unloaded'. The slop is the post sliding in the retention ring groove(in/out).

This will lower the caster in all three positions. The added washers should be just enough to allow the caster to drop to the floor in the fully raised position, but not allow any weight to bear onto them.

I had to add washers on my brand x casters since the post was longer and the ends square, not ball shaped like the 'original SS issue'. The washers allow fine tuning of about .070" each.

Since I kinda feel responsible for the cheap caster situation, ( I never bothered to check the length!)
I will do this for FREE. Send me your posts and I will bore them deeper on my metal lathe. It can be done on the shopsmith as well, but I like boring on the metal lathe.
It's real soft steel and bores easily. Totally easy solution to the longer caster shank situation. Easiest thing I've ever taken apart on the Shopsmith too.
Mine were all rusted to hell, so clean up time anyway.
Robert

wiredone wrote:Since I kinda feel responsible for the cheap caster situation, ( I never bothered to check the length!)
I will do this for FREE. Send me your posts and I will bore them deeper on my metal lathe. It can be done on the shopsmith as well, but I like boring on the metal lathe.
It's real soft steel and bores easily. Totally easy solution to the longer caster shank situation. Easiest thing I've ever taken apart on the Shopsmith too.
Mine were all rusted to hell, so clean up time anyway.
Robert

I am quite satisfied with my 6 washer spacer approach(stem 1 15/16", flat end). I consider the bottoming out on the washers a better condition than the stem bottoming out in the bore.

I have determined the new hole location to be 1 7/8" along the original center line. I have attached a set to the 10' storage rack and it performs correctly (even on bumpy brick sidewalk). The 6 washers prevents the square end of the post from pressing against the 'domed' shape(sorta) of the internal end of the bore in the piston. 5 washers would probably work, but I feel better with additional stem end clearance. 1 less washer would require lowering the holes about 1/16".

FWIW $3.30/caster plus < $11 shipping for 8 + $4.29 for a box of 50 washers + a couple days figgering it all out and drilling etc..


P.S. Thank you for the 'I got you into this' attitude. However I am responsible for my own determining suitability of things I part with money for!

So, what distance did you end up drilling the new holes in the legs?
I'm mocking mine up right now.