mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[mickyd]

Curry! Ya gone Indian on us? Near Asia type! Too hot fer this varmit!

Gotta admit that center one looks nice!

We use mild, sweet Indian curry, not the spicy hot stuff. Like you, don't like spicy hot. We actually are having coconut curry chicken (with coconut milk). The coconut milk makes for a nice smooth tasty curry sauce. Over rice and you got a meal.

[JPG]

We use mild, sweet Indian curry, not the spicy hot stuff. Like you, don't like spicy hot. We actually are having coconut curry chicken (with coconut milk). The coconut milk makes for a nice smooth tasty curry sauce. Over rice and you got a meal.

Coco Loco sounds GOOD! Is the Chicken as good as a Pina Colada?:D

[horologist]

Mike,

Take a look at MSC (this link is to p.1390 of the Big Book) they have a wide variety of steel rules. I would highly recommend their free catalog, even if only as a reference. Your mailman will appreciate it if you get the cd but I personally like leafing through the book.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1387&PARTPG=GSDRVSM&PMT4NO=89063300&PMITEM=86412822&PMCTLG=00&PMT4TP=*LTIP


Curry sounds good, vindaloo can be a bit much though.

Troy

[mickyd]

Got the router work done on the set up gage body tonight. This included both the round over and groove op's. Both were really much easier than I expected.

Here's my set up for the 1/8" deep x 1/2" wide groove. Used a 3/8" straight bit set just over 1/8" from the fence. On my scrap set up pieces, determined that I needed 4 sheets of paper against the fence to serve as shims to get the end lip real close to 1/8" shown in the design. I know it's exact dimension wasn't critical but I wanted to see how close I could hit it. Came out just over by a few thousandths.
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Made the first pass using this 'high heel shoe' to feed the part AND hold it down.
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To get the groove centered, the part was flipped and the other end run through without changing anything in the set up. The instructions didn't mention that when you flip the part, the second cut ends out being a climb cut so the part wants to shoot out the back of the router table. I found that out on my first scrap set up piece. So that it didn't happen on the actual body piece, I used two hands, one on the infeed pushstick to advance the part and the other on the outfeed shoe to restrain the part from just shooting out the back. Advancing slowly, it felt very controlled doing it this way.
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Being my first groove, I don't know what they are supposed to look like but to me, this one looked SWEET!!!! Correct depth, smooth bottom, and both side ribs equal width.
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Roundover op shown in next post.

[mickyd]

Of the two op's, this one worried me the most. I wanted to make sure the pinkies were safe. Having never done this before, I didn't know what to expect. As it turns out, it was a piece of cake. On my practice piece, I first tried table routing with only half the bit raised. I didn't feel any resistance at all and it cut very smoothly across the grain. I raised the bit up all the way and repeated a practice pass where I started by plunging into end grain slowly and again, hardly any resistance. That was enough to tell me that I should be able to do it safely. Here's how my set up looked.
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I clamped end blocks on the starting and ending corners. The clamps were my 'handles' keeping my hands completely away from the bit. The first edge pass came out great. I got some burn after coming around the radius and hitting the cross grain. I might have slowed down?? or can that be considered normal??? or a sign of cheap bit???
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Got a little burn onthe radius on the other edge. Again, not sure if I slowed down or if it's normal.
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So, now some sanding then tackle the sliding arm tongue and its round over.

I think I AM going to try making my own brass horizontal read ruler using the acid etch process. I'm pretty sure that I can get the accuracy. Will never know if I don't try. I just have to design the artwork.

Half asleep. Gotta get to bed.

[Wanderir]

You can use transparencies and a laser printer to transfer your artwork to the brass, with an iron, then etch it. It's difficult to get the etching just right, might take some practice. You'll probably want to create a negative image, so only the lines and numbers don't get etched. I've had a fair amount of success transfering artwork to metal for etching with this technique.

You'll also either have to see if your printer will print 1:1, most don't. Some can be adjusted.

You could burn a silk screen as well.

Great and inspirational project!

[mickyd]

You can use transparencies and a laser printer to transfer your artwork to the brass, with an iron, then etch it. It's difficult to get the etching just right, might take some practice. You'll probably want to create a negative image, so only the lines and numbers don't get etched. I've had a fair amount of success transferring artwork to metal for etching with this technique.

You'll also either have to see if your printer will print 1:1, most don't. Some can be adjusted.

You could burn a silk screen as well.

Great and inspirational project!

I've read that you can use regular transparency stock (overhead projector sheets) and the laser printer. I've still got a stash of Press-N-Peel blue left over from when I recreated my ER10 nameplate. I'll be using that since I've already got it. It works real well and manufacturer claims it picks up details down to a few thousandths of an inch. It's the same process as the transparency method ....negative image artwork transfered onto the press-n-peel with a laser printer and heat transferred onto the stock with an ordinary clothes iron. As you mentioned, scaling the artwork to the printer output will be critical which I can do in the image editing program if needed vs. relying on the printers magnification settings.

Glad your liking the project too. I'm having a great time.

[JPG]

Clean the shaper cutter real good before rounding the other half. MAY reduce burning.

While measuring the 1/8" lip, be sure to as accurately measure the 'removed' part. That is the critical dimension for the mating 'projection'. Cut this second(mating) piece slightly large, and approach the fit by light sanding of both pieces. This allows you to selectively attack the 'high/narrow' areas. Finish off with steel wool. As it ages(swells/warps) you can again use steel wool as appropriate.

Ya gonna apply anything to the sliding surfaces????

[Wanderir]

Thanks Mickey! I didn't know about Press-N-Peel. I'll be adding that to my bag of tricks.

[shipwright]

The "burning issue" is one good reason to have a variable speed router.
You can usually avoid it also by leaving a thin final cut and running it, particularly over end grain, quickly.

Nice work Mike. You continue to amaze.

Paul M