mickyd's Woodworking Projects

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:09 pm

pennview wrote:Just a question, and I'm not trying to start a long discussion on the subject, but aren't you indeed measuring each time you removed the sheets of paper that were behind the auxiliary fence? If the sheets were about .003" thick and your remove one, then make two passes to remove material from both sides of the gauge, aren't you taking off approximately .006" and isn't this the same as measuring? I don't see how that differs from using a dial indicator behind the fence to measure it's movement and moving the fence .003" away from the cutter, after measuring the width of the tongue with a caliper. What you end up doing with the paper is measuring in fixed steps.

There are time when precision in cutting parts is important (like when cutting the tongue and groove) and not so important when cutting the height of the gauge.

Intuitively, you are correct. Removing 'shims' would appear to be the same as measuring but......it definitely isn't a 1 to 1 ratio. As I mentioned from my first failed attempt, the variability in the process gives you results far different from 1 to 1. Removing the paper didn't alway give a -.006" change. It probably has to do with factors like compressing the paper stack different each time, the feed presentation of the wood to the cutter, the wood characteristics themselves where it may compress vs cut differently every time.....on and on and on. Then you've got the machine......a high speed bit that wobbles to some degree, tables that vibrate etc.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:38 pm

Foul!:eek: Yellow card #1.

It not fair filling gaps with sawdust!:D

They will probably need that gap when the two halves start drifting(moisture/warping/....).

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:10 am

JPG40504 wrote: It not fair filling gaps with sawdust!:D

They will probably need that gap when the two halves start drifting(moisture/warping/....).

Sorry to disagree but I'm sure Mike left the dust there to simulate the talcum powder he plans to use as lubricant in the finished piece. ...Right Mike?;)

Paul M

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:15 am

JPG40504 wrote:Foul!:eek: Yellow card #1.

It not fair filling gaps with sawdust!:D

They will probably need that gap when the two halves start drifting(moisture/warping/....).

Hey, hey, I told ya that the photo was straight off the sanding disk. The disk filled 'em, not me.

No worry about environmental effects effecting the gage. I'll store it in an environmental chamber in between use.

Wait till you see it with the custom brass measuring scale on it.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:16 am

[quote="shipwright"]Sorry to disagree but I'm sure Mike left the dust there to simulate the talcum powder he plans to use as lubricant in the finished piece. ...Right Mike?]
Ya Paul, that's the ticket!!

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:21 pm

Here's a prototype design I did of the custom brass scale for the adjustable setup gage. shipwright put this bug in my head. The design includes division graduations (from left to right) full inches, 16th's of an inch, 8th's of an inch, and 32nd's of an inch on the far right. I may look a little busy but I really like the ability to read the 3 different units on one scale. What do you think?
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JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 2:11 am

mickyd wrote:Here's a prototype design I did of the custom brass scale for the adjustable setup gage. shipwright put this bug in my head. The design includes division graduations (from left to right) full inches, 16th's of an inch, 8th's of an inch, and 32nd's of an inch on the far right. I may look a little busy but I really like the ability to read the 3 different units on one scale. What do you think?
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How come the first 1/16 and 1/32 of each inch is larger than the rest???

Other than that, I like it!

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:00 am

JPG40504 wrote:How come the first 1/16 and 1/32 of each inch is larger than the rest???

Other than that, I like it!

If you mean the vertical spacing at each full inch mark graduation starting at 1 inch to the associated 1/32" graduation, its only because of quick copy and pasting I did. Its a prototype. I first created all the 0-1" graduations exact to a 1" section of my steel scale scan, then did a quick copy paste of the group for the remaining inches without having anything to align the paste to. My final artwork will be exact.

Zat whatchu mean?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:58 pm

mickyd wrote:If you mean the vertical spacing at each full inch mark graduation starting at 1 inch to the associated 1/32" graduation, its only because of quick copy and pasting I did. Its a prototype. I first created all the 0-1" graduations exact to a 1" section of my steel scale scan, then did a quick copy paste of the group for the remaining inches without having anything to align the paste to. My final artwork will be exact.

Zat whatchu mean?

Si Amigo!!

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 5:01 pm

The end is in sight. All the woodworking is complete.

I added the slot on the adjustable arm using the method described in the article, that being drill two 1/4" holes at the slot extremes then mill out the material in between with a 1/4" straight router. A more seasoned woodworker would have skipped the two through holes and plunged right in with the straight router bit. I was going to try that but......next time maybe. I figured I'd follow the write-up to the letter.

Since the pre-drilled holes established the extremes of the slot length, I was able to set up positive stops on the table that I used to ensure that I didn't somehow mill the slot too long. I milled the slot in 4 passes, taking off 1/4 of the stock thickness each time. Used a push stick in the rear hole and my hand on the 'L' to move the part. Used the featherboard just because I felt more comfortable doing it that way.
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Added the brass parts. The wear pads on the bottom and the tall vertical pointer piece were first superglued to the wood then pilot holes, shank holes, and countersinks were added prior to screw installation. All that's needed now is a couple coats of tung oil and the custom brass scale that I am going to make up using the acid etch process. Here's how she looks so far.
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You'll notice in the pic above (well at least some of you will.....jpg

)that the vertical pointer piece is missing the 2 screws in the middle. Well the plan overlooked those!! It called for nine #4 x 1/2" long vs. 7 and the those missing two being only 1/4" long. Anything longer than 1/4" goes down into the slot interfering with the sliding movement. I still need locate those short screws. Having problems doing so.

Two mistakes made in the project....one visible in the last photo.