Shopsmith Forums

With it super glued and secured with screws at both ends, do you really need 2 more screws in the middle?

If I understand its operation correctly, all that piece does is position the rule and act as an indicator.

Solution: super glue two screw heads(only) in those 'surplus' holes.

JPG40504 wrote:With it super glued and secured with screws at both ends, do you really need 2 more screws in the middle?

If I understand its operation correctly, all that piece does is position the rule and act as an indicator.

Solution: super glue two screw heads(only) in those 'surplus' holes.

Don't absolutely need the 2 missing screws but the superglue bond got compromised with all the work that was done to that narrow brass piece. (spring loaded center punch whacking away about 20 times for the 4 holes, drill bit binding once)

Your understanding of the gages function is correct. That narrow brass pieces base just serves as a 'pointer' to the scale position as the arm is raised.

Your cheat with bonding the heads is a good one that I'd use as a last resort. (you know me by now)

Those are pretty small screws. Why not just file or grind the tips of the half inch screws so they are only 1/4" long. You might need to run one in part way to start the threads, but otherwise should work.

Ron

If you really want a 1/4" screw, amazon.com lists a #4 x 1/4" flat head slotted brass wood screw.

Ron

RonKlein wrote:Those are pretty small screws. Why not just file or grind the tips of the half inch screws so they are only 1/4" long. You might need to run one in part way to start the threads, but otherwise should work.

Ron

If the screws were fully threaded, that would work, but on a #4 x 1/2" wood screw, the unthreaded length is almost the thickness of the wood it's going through. I wouldn't be able to get enough bite. McMaster-Carr has bags of 100 phil flats for a little over $3. (PN 92114A106). Input was appreciated though. Thanks.

I think if I were actually in your position that I would take the screws that I had (I'm assuming they are brass), run them in with a little epoxy, and then run the router through the groove again. Carbide beats brass every time. Or you could file them or something. Use what ya got and get 'er done.

Paul M

shipwright wrote:I think if I were actually in your position that I would take the screws that I had (I'm assuming they are brass), run them in with a little epoxy, and then run the router through the groove again. Carbide beats brass every time. Or you could file them or something. Use what ya got and get 'er done.

Paul M

Can't do it considering a 'real fix' is available......just gotta find the darn screws. Got a connection in Los Angeles who might just pop a couple in an envelope if they've got them.

RE routing them.... Dykes snip them off to length quite easily BUT, I am glad you posted the 'carbide beats brass' comment. That would have been an easier approach for me getting my 1" wide brass for the wear plates down to 3/4". I cut it on the scroll saw then had to grind the edge straight. I could have just routed it to width?? I just don't think of cutting non-ferrous metal with sawblades, router bit. Gotta change that thinking I guess.

mickyd wrote:Can't do it considering a 'real fix' is available......just gotta find the darn screws. Got a connection in Los Angeles who might just pop a couple in an envelope if they've got them.

RE routing them.... Dykes snip them off to length quite easily BUT, I am glad you posted the 'carbide beats brass' comment. That would have been an easier approach for me getting my 1" wide brass for the wear plates down to 3/4". I cut it on the scroll saw then had to grind the edge straight. I could have just routed it to width?? I just don't think of cutting non-ferrous metal with sawblades, router bit. Gotta change that thinking I guess.

OR . . . Ya could file some threads on the shank portion and then cut them off.

Key word was 'CARBIDE' beats brass! And as you well know, there are brasses of different hardness.

[quote="mickyd"]Can't do it considering a 'real fix' is available.....

I resemble that remark. What part of that Idea was UNREAL? Was It the part where you had the parts already and got it done now?:rolleyes:

Paul M

shipwright wrote:

mickyd wrote:Can't do it considering a 'real fix' is available.....

I resemble that remark. What part of that Idea was UNREAL? Was It the part where you had the parts already and got it done now?:rolleyes:

Paul M

The part where you(and I) suggested a cosmetic application of only part of a screw. Me thinks he wants it to be 'really functional' and actually secure the strip with threads. I do not think he actually has an actual 'source' yet.