Shopsmith Forums

horologist wrote:Mike,

I have #4 x 1/4" brass screws. PM me your address and I will send a couple your way.

However, they are slotted, not Phillips.

A while back I got frustrated with never having the right size screw for a repair and took measures. Now I am reasonably well stocked from size 0 to 5 now.

Troy

Thanks Troy. I appreciate it. PM on the way.

mickyd wrote:Thanks Troy. I appreciate it. PM on the way.

Hope they are WOOD screws!;)

mickyd wrote: . . .

jpg...(re)describe the 'flip' you talked about with Mark's gage vs. the one that judaspre1982 linked to. Not picturing the difference.

The long piece IS the same.

The reason for flipping the short piece is so the workpiece can be small. Instead of the end of the short piece being large on the blade side, it needs to be a short projection so the 'push' projection is not larger than the workpiece. Marks was ok for a wide board.

[quote="JPG40504"]Hope they are WOOD screws!]

Nope, they're made from brass!

horologist wrote:Nope, they're made from brass!

Your dad could use some of that sense of humor!:D

Slam dunked those furniture legs yesterday with surprise help from minnied!! She was explaining how she'd like to see the legs tapered a little more than the current ones I was modeling off of. Figured the only way to meet that standard was to get her to do the marking. If they came out wrong, then I could only get blamed for misinterpreting the marks she traced on the raw stock.
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Pretty uneventful project. Used the bandsaw to cut out all 4 legs. I had planned on trying the taper jig approach but was concerned with the 3 inch thickness and short length. The bandsaw op went fast. After cutting the first two tapers, I reattached the scrap with painters tape, rotated the stock 90°, and cut the remaining two.
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To clean up the sides after bandsawing, I first used the beltsander with 50 grit belt, followed up with 80 and 120 grit belts. Switched over the the finish sander with 150, 220, and 320. Applied some pre-stain wood conditioner, then golden pecan stain.
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All that's left is a couple coats of the clear satin wipe on poly, and the installation of the 5/16" hanger bolt mounting hardware.

The furniture company wanted $80 plus Arnold's share for these 4 legs. Total cost excluding labor was $25, plus spending some quality shop time with minnied. (I'll get her turning pens before the years over).

So now, back to the acid etch ruler project to finish off the ajdustable set-up gage and then time to select a new project.

Man, this woodworkings FUN!!

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DT aka Agent Orange is a POS
Liar Liar his wonky comb over is on fire

judaspre1982 wrote:Nice work Mike. Your stain job looks good. I am still frustrated when trying to stain Poplar. I have used the prestain sealer and still get wide variations of coloration. I do have yet to try the gel stains and dyes that were recommended by other forum members. Your raw stock has the green coloration. I always try to pick the most white stock from the bins thinking it would take the stain better. Maybe next time I will pick the green stuff.

Dave

Do you always look for the sap wood???

Mike - as you said - woodworking is fun!:) But it is only fun if it is safe! The jointer, as mentioned is a good way to produce tapers, however one needs to pay attention to the minimum length of wood to be passed over the jointer. Without looking, I think it is 10", but could be wrong here. Shorter pieces can be hazardous for woodworkers. Somewhat longer than the minimum is easier. I know this makes scrap, but it saves body parts.

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