Shopsmith Forums

Skizzity wrote:While I don't know if it is "correct", I have always used the out-down-and-back technique with my SCMS. Meaning: out-1/8" score along the top, down- plunging the cut in the front of the workpiece and back- finishing the cut while pushing back to the fence.

According to the manuals Dennis referred to that is the 'correct' procedure.

It is correct, because 'they said so'.

They also said clamp it down.

What I do is not 'correct' except by my decision to do it a certain way and should not be interpreted as a recommendation for any one else to do the same unless they also make that decision for themselves.

Here are pictures of the power cord installation I did today on the arm of my Sawsmith refurbishment.

I finished the drawers this morning. The exterior is finished with Pittsburgh Ultra exterior wood stain. The interior is finished with Pittsburgh exterior semi-gloss paint.

Sawsmith KEY.

AIUI it is the same as the Mark VII key(Chicago Lock Co. coded YPP).

I have an original from which I can get duplicates made by a very competent locksmith.

If anyone needs one e-mail me.

It has been almost two weeks that I had the rusted parts sitting in the potato water. Today I opened the containers, removed the parts and just rinsed them off with the results shown. Absolutely amazing results with no elbow grease involved! Next time I will wear plastic gloves; the stench of raw sewage permeates my hands and I can't get the smell out even after using lemon juice. However, after 24 hours it is gone.

Keep posting on everything you learn. There is just not enough Sawsmith info out there. Saved mine and I need to order a coil cord and switch.

I am curious if the caster 'pistons' might be the same as the Mark VII. Could you provide dimensions?

Top od
lower od
Height of top or overall length
Bottom to lower edge of cap
Caster stem hole depth
Caster hole diameter

I picked up the six pieces to the base cabinet today from the powder coat shop. They sandblasted everything down to bare metal and then did the powder coat paint. It turned out just beautiful but pricey, just under $300. Here is the inside of one of the sides. Here is the outside of one of the sides. Here is the top. Here is the front door. Here is the back. Here is the side with the all the caster mechanism installed. Handle was polished and waxed. Installed with stainless steel hex bolt and locknut. New casters work just fine. They are better than the original. These have ball bearings on the swivel. Here is the front door with the glides installed. I used a stainless steel hex bolt 3/8-24 fine thread 1/2 inch long with a nylon spacer 5/8" OD, 1/4" ID, 3/8" long. I drilled the ID with a Q size drill bit and then tapped the threads but only 3/4 of the way through so it would not come unscrewed after installation. Adjusted it to turn freely, lubricated with light machine oil same as the caster mechanism.

The Sawsmith Cabinet Stand parts list calls this a plunger, Ref No. 9, Part No. 4934

Top od 7/8"
lower od 3/4"
Height of top or overall length 1 7/8"
Bottom to lower edge of cap 1 11/16"
Caster stem hole depth 1 35/64
Caster hole diameter 7/16"

Sweet!!!!