Shopsmith 10ER

[ERLover]

So, originally being an 8" machine, if I can find an 8" blade, I should be good? Thank you.


Here is a close-up of the belt cover, so you can see if it is a 'low profile' belt cover. As stated, when I have the table at a required height, depending on what I am cross-cutting, if the material extends to the left of the blade longer than the distance from blade to belt cover, the material hits the belt cover. Not sure if there is a solution to this issue.

Thank you again.

This is the blade I have been using on mine. Freud D0840X Diablo 8-1/4-Inch 40 Tooth so an 8 1/4" blade will work.
I just went out and measured, with the table set so the work just clears the belt guard there is 1 5/8" of blade exposed, enough to crosscut 2 x stock.

So, by putting belt on different pulleys, I will get slower or faster speeds, but, the speed is not variable 'on-the-fly,' (like the accelerator in your car) correct?

Correct, to get variable speed you need a Speed Changer which was sold as an optional accessory.
These are very desirable and usually sell on Ebay in the $150-200 range. Alternately, if you have the room in you shop it can be cheaper to keep an eye on your local Craigslist for a complete machine that includes a speed changer and then set the second one up as a dedicated drill press.

I have picked up 2 ERs that were clean and functional with speed changers in the $200-250 range. SC on Ebay go usually for $175 if they are rebuilt, which is real easy.

[mcafferky]

So this week I purchased a vintage 10ER (Serial Number R42439) which apparently was manufactured/assembled sometime around 1950 or 1951 (?). A few missing bits and bobs. As I work on restoration in coming year, I may need this community for advice on where to find replacement parts. It is in fair shape for $40. Motor comes from A. O Smith Electrical Manufacturing (Serial Number CC, Model number 156J4GFA). Motor is pretty old, but not sure if it is original to this 10ER. I'm a newbie. Usually, I don't participate in Forums. Accordingly, this post is as much for learning the forum posting system--such as posting photos--as it is for introducing this machine to the 10ER group.

[rpd]

So this week I purchased a vintage 10ER (Serial Number R42439) which apparently was manufactured/assembled sometime around 1950 or 1951 (?). A few missing bits and bobs. As I work on restoration in coming year, I may need this community for advice on where to find replacement parts. It is in fair shape for $40. Motor comes from A. O Smith Electrical Manufacturing (Serial Number CC, Model number 156J4GFA). Motor is pretty old, but not sure if it is original to this 10ER. I'm a newbie. Usually, I don't participate in Forums. Accordingly, this post is as much for learning the forum posting system--such as posting photos--as it is for introducing this machine to the 10ER group.

Congratulations, and welcome aboard.

For parts try.
MKCtools. http://www.mkctools.com/
HogWinslow https://sites.google.com/site/hogwinslo ... xPG34rG3OY
The Facebook Shopsmith Sales Group https://www.facebook.com/groups/298235127282459/
And Ebay.

Note, full machines are usually quite cheap. Parts are often quite expensive. Keep your eye out for another one with lots of extras, then make one into a dedicated drill press, and share the parts between them.

Yes that motor is original. Keep us updated on your progress, and ask any questions that come up.

[chapmanruss]

As Ron already said Welcome. His advice for finding parts are good places to look. From what I see in the pictures you posted your 10ER has most of the main parts. The Motor is the same brand that was sold with the Shopsmith's but most had a different fixed plate to mount the motor. The Shopsmith was sold with or without a motor.

Ron's suggestion on buying an additional Model 10 for parts you may want is a good one if the price is reasonable and it has items you do have not such as a Speed Changer, Shopsmith Metal Bench Ends and Retractable Casters or other rare accessories. Speed Changers and Retractable Casters sell online for over $100. Be warned though buying Shopsmiths can become habit forming. I have purchased 22 Model 10E and 10ER's since I started and restored 19 so far and resold 17 of them. I kept the first one I bought and restored (10ER S/N R64000) and the oldest one I have restored (10E S/N 1077) which is one of the first group of 250 Shopsmiths made and shipped.

Missing or needed arbors, sanding disks etc. can be found both used and new. One thing to remember is that all Shopsmith 5 in 1 tools have the same diameter reverse tapered spindle and quill from the very first Shopsmith Model 10E's to the current Mark V 520 and Mark 7. Although you have one if you needed a Drill Chuck you could find a used one from a Model 10 or buy a new current version one. If yours needs parts because something is damaged or missing remember the Model 10's were a "work in progress" with many parts having different versions. Other parts were the same for the entire production of the Model 10's. If you needed a quill lock, as an example, there were three versions. The first was a double wedge lock, yours is a keyed double wedge lock which was followed be a single wedge lock. If you needed a quill return spring all Model 10's use the same one. In fact the Mark V and Mark 7 still use the same quill return spring today, just in a different housing.

It may be helpful for you to start you own thread with how your restoration is going and to ask any questions you may have.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[JPG]

"Bits and Bobs". What's yer 20?


Oh and welcome. And you were more successful than most with learning how to post pix!

[chapmanruss]

JPG asked "What's yer 20?" By adding your location to your profile another member may be close to you so as you find what "Bits and Bobs" you need they may have an extra in their parts or can help you find them locally.

Another Forum Member lives about a half hour from me and we get together from time to time to talk about Shopsmiths and trade parts. We have learned from each other even more about the Shopsmith Tools. It was here on the Forum we met and discovered how close we live to each other.

I know my location has simply said Oregon since I have neglected to change it until now but I am actually in the SW Portland Area.

[JPG]

The reason I asked whats yer 20 is that 'bits and bobs' thing. A colloquilaism fer sure.

[mcafferky]

Thanks for the replies to my posting. It took me a while to find my first posting and see the replies. I'll respond to all replies here but not sure if this is proper Forum Community ettiquette, so if someone would kindly let me know, I'll appreciate it. I'm just trying to be efficient. Like I said before, I usually don't participate in Forums. Maybe I should get out more. However, I do appreciate the moral support expressed in the replies. Thanks. Clearly, there are many people here who are dedicated 10ER users and I appreciate that. Thanks for the ideas for finding parts (though I didn't understand some of the technical terms used to identify certain parts - I'll look these up in the user guide found online).

My "20" is Walla Walla, Washington (southeastern part of state).

"Bits and bobs" is an Irish phrase from more than a century ago - used in the historical fiction I wrote regarding my grandfather's experience coming from Ireland to North America. I've adopted it for general use recognizing that few people have heard it in this generation.

The most obvious notable items this machine is missing include the following:
* Lathe chuck (not sure this is the correct term but didn't want to take time to look it up here - you can tell that I'm not that experienced at woodworking either. Was this a wise idea to restore a tool that I don't have much experience using? Who knows?):
* Lathe tool rest
* Pulley cover
* Chuck key
* Needs a new drive belt
* several accessories missing (8" saw blade, sanding disc as examples)
Probably more notable things missing that the more experienced among us here will quickly identify.
Not sure if the current tail stock has the proper tail center for using the lathe.
Motor runs, but I'll be tearing it down to inspect bearings and bushings, cleaning, lubing, etc. Since this is an antique, I'm not sure I should paint the motor. I'd prefer to get this whole machine looking like it came off the factory assembly floor. Any suggestions on Yeah or Nay? If yes, what color? It looks like it originally was silver, but not sure since the paint is so bad.
Not concerned at the moment to get a speed changer that someone mentioned. I just want to get this thing torn down, shined up, maybe repainted, lubed, and so forth. Would welcome suggestions for what to avoid doing - things that might decrease its value. After it is restored, I plan to use this as a lathe for a while until I get bored with it. Then I'll probably put it up for sale. My history is doing "one-of" projects as I am easily bored once I've figured out how it works, but who knows, maybe I'll get hooked and do another. Initial Plan: Get everything disconnected from what the book calls the "tubular ways," (why are they called that?) i.e., the pipes, get the rust off these guys inside and out, polish them up, then start restoring each of the items that connect to these pipes one by one. Cheers. Maybe I should also say, that I tend to write more than I should. I'm an author and just can't help myself sometimes. So . . . if a lengthy Forum post is bad form here in this Community, you won't offend me if you tell me so. Cheers!

[mcafferky]

So if you are in Portland, you know where Walla Walla is. I'll try to remember that you are within half a day driving distance. Thanks.

[mcafferky]

Thanks for this helpful information - I'll be learning what all these things are during the next months. Regarding starting my own thread: I'll try to figure this out, too.