Motor Just humms

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:03 am

I used a different straight edge, the 4 corners seem to be fine, I checked the blade height and they are too low. I am going to be busy till Monday and not spend any time on it till then. I will do a more elaborate 4 corner check and some others on Monday and post the results. Thanks for all so far.
Bob

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:11 am

rbursek wrote:I used a different straight edge, the 4 corners seem to be fine, I checked the blade height and they are too low. I am going to be busy till Monday and not spend any time on it till then. I will do a more elaborate 4 corner check and some others on Monday and post the results. Thanks for all so far.
Bob

What does 'fine' mean?

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:07 am

Sorry JPG, I took the fence off and layed a straight edge flat on the top of the out feed table where the fence would be close to the edge of the, what I will refer to as the "drive coupling" side the jointer. Raised the infeed table till the top of it at the cutter end of it touched the straight edge, which is a 4 ft level. It apeared that the infeed table along that area was flat with the outfeed table all the way to the right side edge were the fence mounts. So those 4 corners of the 2 tables where good. In hind sight I should not just use my eye, when I redo this on Monday I will try and slide a thin piece of some type of material between the level and infeed table and clamp the level to the top surface of the out feed table. Then I did the same thing along the opposite edge, I refered to the previous edge as the "drive coupling side", I will refer to this side as " the side with the "depth of cut gauge side", for a lack of a better term. The tables looked flat along that side at the full length of them. Again, in hind site as I am typing this, on Monday I will do a "X" patern looking from the top down from the left drive coupling side of the outfeed table to the depth of cut gauge side of the infeed table corner where the fence mounts, and vice versa.
When I did this, I rotated the cutter head and the blades were about a 1/16" below the level, they should just about touch it. I am going to pull them and drop them off for sharpening tomorrow. Even though a previous poster to this thread did not think that would be the problem I experienced with jointing a board, after doing this, I think it may very well be, since yesterday inspection looked good as far as the tables coplanar.
Bob

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:03 am

So if the tables are in fact coplanar, there really was "no problem". That is good. The only critical task remaining is to set the newly sharpened blades to the proper depth (all three exactly the same across the entire length of the blade) and about 1/64" above the height of the out feed table.

With that done, you should be "in business".

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 11:00 am

"Good" indeed!

Excellent explanation!

I think setting the blade height will bring it back to useful life.

I will add a link to a great adjustment tool(if I can find it).

There are two height adjustment screws under the blades. They should be removed and cleaned before proceeding(as well as the wedge retaining screws etc.). Start with the blades set low. Then gradually raise the blade by 'backing out' the adjustment screws alternatively. The screws are near each end of the blade. Since the wedges are tapered, keeping the blades 'snug' but not 'clamped' requires loosening the wedges as the blade is raised.

Also, the blades need to be positioned horizontally so the 'depth of cut scale' end barely extends beyond the same edge of the outfeed table(for jointing rabbets)

CAUTION! Measure the blade "height". If less than 11/16" they should NOT be used. Like grinding brake drums/discs too far.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 11:52 am

Well I did not find the 'jig' I was looking for!:(

However it is easy to describe.

A piece of wood with a slot cut so as to hold a ruler with the narrow edge down. The slot needs to be wide enough so the ruler slides easily. IIRC, a magnet was embeded in the wood so it stays positioned on the outfeed table.

In use, the ruler is extended out over the blade. As the blade is rotated it may contact the ruler and cause it to move slightly parallel to the outfeed table top surface. The jig merely provides a method to keep the ruler vertical balancing on the narrow edge.

I will add a link to a video by Dusty showing the method sans jig.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 11:56 am

Well it appears Dusty has made that video "private'.

So here is likely far more than you want to know!:D

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9385

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:56 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Well it appears Dusty has made that video "private'.

So here is likely far more than you want to know!:D

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9385

The video (in fact, all of my utube videos) had been made Private. I don't think I did that but they have all been changed back to Public.

Thanks for the heads up, JPG.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:43 pm

This is the instructions I have offered in the past.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:45 pm

Nice vidio Dusty, but needs some AC/DC music in the back ground!LOL. I usually use 2, 9" Torpedo levels with magnetic bases, and put a piece of equal size shim stock between them and the table tops surface, on both ends when I set jointer blades.
Different note here, I am a terrible speller, is there a spell check for the forum like Ispell or something like it?

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