Poly V belt replacement

[JPG]

Thanks JPG. I thought I was. I don't have a tach. So I use the belt position on the motor pulley method. It's just that after I set the stop screw, and tighten the nut..The dial won't spin to "fast" before re-installing the speed control handle. I must be missing something. I've read several post concerning this procedure nothing mentions this. They just say "after setting the screw turn the dial to fast". Is there another way to do a "complete" high speed adjustment?

There is a point(just above saw-joint) where the dial will encounter resistance to further rotation above that point.(The "A" greenies have a hard stop at that point and depression of the release is required to go beyond that point)

On the "A" Greenie the release is above the dial and the release provides the pointer.

The ring varies as well. The current dials have a ramp at the 'stop' point. The "A" Greenies have a hard stop at that point (hence the need for depressing the release). The stop/ramp is at the end of a groove in the back of the dial. The "A" version release rides in the groove. The current version's "anti rattle spring" rides in the groove and 'up' the ramp.(one can feel additional torque required to increase the speed setting at the ramp)

I consider fretting over the setting by using a tach unnecessary. I (repeat) consider when the limits of speed adjustment are essentially equal relative to "fast/slow" all is well. Nowhere does SS recommend use of a tach.(actually SS does not say much about setting it at all).

[roneg]

OK great. I was encountering a very serious machine "lock-up" condition. Couldn't figure out where, or what was causing it. It did seem to be connected to the speed control. After trying different things..all requiring installing, then removing parts again , and again! I think I have determined it to be the belt catching or binding in the control sheaves when they were allowed by the high speed stop screw to widen past the (obviously Maximum)allowed separation. I have not heard of this condition before.. It really had me stumped as it was as if the control button bearing ,or splines on the drive shaft to the quill were grinding, Very metallic sounding to me. But that just didn't make sense as I had examined all the bearings when I had the Headstock apart. I felt no such conditions. Matter of fact all the bearings felt real solid. I can only assume it is a common issue with all shopsmiths. Really pretty scary!

I did notice a bit of play in the quadrant arm (pork chop) side to side where the roll pin attaches it to the mounting plate. How much of that is normal?

[JPG]

Yes if the pulley is 'opened' too far the belt CAN drop too low and jam! A belt narrower from wear can do that 'later'. Realize it can occur on the motor pulley as well.

The side to side play you mentioned is 'typical' but it gets excessive if/when the 'arms' get bent from improper(adjusting speed with it not running or doing so too quickly). Replacing the roll pin with a bolt after correcting the leg position can minimize the play. Usually only one leg gets repositioned from misuse.

[roneg]

Thanks JPG for all your help. Got the 510 all back together! Now time to go make sawdust!
Thank you too, all who have taken their time to respond, and contribute to this thread. It has been very much appreciated.

Ron