Headstock Quill lever Allen Screw?

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baddlad
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Post by baddlad »

SDSSmith wrote:Congratulations Jeff, I am sure that you are relieved that you did not have to drill out that set screw.
Thanks and yes I am very relieved about that. It was a big point of frustration for me.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

baddlad wrote:Thanks and yes I am very relieved about that. It was a big point of frustration for me.
The initial problem has to be stripped allen socket or wrench(or both). A proper fitting allen socket/wrench will allow more torque to be applied to the screw than an easy-out.

Badlad I wonder if your allen wrench was the correct size, or, it was a 'soft' one which lost its corners when you tried to get the screw out or the socket damaged when getting the hex hole cleared.

In any event, GLAD it is over. Just wish I understood WHY you had the problem.:confused:
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baddlad
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Post by baddlad »

JPG40504 wrote:The initial problem has to be stripped allen socket or wrench(or both). A proper fitting allen socket/wrench will allow more torque to be applied to the screw than an easy-out.

Badlad I wonder if your allen wrench was the correct size, or, it was a 'soft' one which lost its corners when you tried to get the screw out or the socket damaged when getting the hex hole cleared.

In any event, GLAD it is over. Just wish I understood WHY you had the problem.:confused:
I was using the shopsmith allen wrench for the set screw. until it started slipping inside then I switched to another allen wrench, but pretty soon the set screw was beggining to show signs of being stripped out. My friend said he thought it had something to do with the two different metals reacting together, the headstock and set screw. However after examining the set screw it looked liked the putty and gone all the way in and was interfearing with the threads past where I could dig it out. At least that's what it looked like. At any rate there was some kind of gunk in the threads.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Thank You for the addition info!:)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Yeah! Thanks for the added info. A couple of us (on the forum) have found it is a good practice to inspect the ends of our allen wrenches and grind or file them off a bit shorter when they become worn. This makes a better fitting wrench.

Not saying that this was your initial problem, but it may have been. A similar problem I had with rounding off the inside of a set screw was with the taper screw that;s located in the miter gauge bar.
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Was heat ever tried?

Post by mtobey »

I did not see where any heat was tried. It sounds to me as though that would have done it. I have two or three small butane torches around for this kind of problem. A 40 watt soldering iron held into the socket of the screw would likely have softened the gunk you saw. Because I do small parts welding too, I have a "Little Torch." Too expensive to have around just for "unsticking" but it sure comes in handy for pinpoint heat.Mike T( I keep quite a few little boxes of setscrews around-the brass dog points are invaluable.)
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baddlad
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Post by baddlad »

I did try a mini torch to it, maybe I didn't get it hot enough, I was a little nervous about getting it too hot.
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Post by moose »

I know you must be totally frustrated by now. I have had limited success by performing the following. I hope it has not been suggested previously because I have not read the entire thread.

Go to Radio Shack or an electronic store and buy a can of Component Cooler. It's about $10. Reheat the screw again using the method of your choice. I think a good soldering iron would be best unless your torch has pin point capabilities. I don't think you will be able to get the screw too hot becasue the surrounding metal will be acting as a heat sink. When pleasingly hot, immediately apply the refrigerant until it is for all pratical purposes frozen. Then try to remove it again. Perhaps the cooling of unlike metals with shrink at different rates enough to free it.

This has not worked for me everytime but I have had success with it.

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Post by mickyd »

ashbury wrote:I know you must be totally frustrated by now............
Ashbury

baddlad is probably no longer frustrated because of this post (unless he has some other deep down underlying frustrations he hasn't share with us.... yet :D )
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baddlad
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Post by baddlad »

if they are underlying frustrations I might not even know about them... lol
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