mickyd's Woodworking Projects

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Oh come on Mike! go get a cheap face shield and cut away. If you make the stop on your fence shorter than your board-1/2" tall, and cut this profile out of your mitre gauge wood. the board on the mitre gauge should push the pieces through. Keep the blade as low as possible with a zero clearance insert.
Mark

I'll slice them for you in exchange for an easy photo fix

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Your head tilt comment made me think--rotate. Check this out
Saw rotated 90 degrees
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[mickyd]

Although I agree in principle re the cut the rabbets in a wider piece and then rip, The need to create these wider 1/4" 'boards' has led to other problems.

I suggest sawing 1/2" deep x 1/4" into both sides of an edge of the 4x8x13/16 stock that you have. This is the same as you have previously described, except only cut 1/2" deep. You can do this 4 x (2x on each edge). You can then rip out the 1/2" width(cut though the 13/16 dimension). It is better to keep the 1/2 x 1/4 pieces on the side of the blade away from the fence(you do not want them squeezed in there!). This requires careful measuring prior to each rip cut(what is 'normally' the cutaway piece is in this case the desired piece..

This gives you 1/4 x 1/2 x 8 strips. The jig solves the 'small part' handling problem even if it makes it time consuming. The [4 1/4"] rails can be cut to 4"(adjust the 1/2" rabbet to 3/8") since you will be mitering that 1/8" off anyway. A bandsaw would be preferable, however thou has not got one.

Try all this out on some cheap throwaway pine before sawing that mahagony!

I used the 'human' font feature in sketchup to draw up my interpretation.
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I like the idea. I can't find 4 of the 8 strips you mentioned however so more explanation is needed.

So I take it the biggest concern with my original setup was the depth of cut (more than 1/2 way or 2"+) vs.

a) the fact that I don't' have a zero clearance insert AND
b) I am cutting with the stock between the fence and the blade directly.

I still ponder why the original setup is NG if I were to cut real slow. The first cut just seems like it would be a breeze. The risk I can think of is having a hand over the blade, pushing down from the top. Is that the issue? The second cut, if it was a complete through cut along the entire length does seem a little funky. Anyway, I wouldn't even question those with experience. You say NO CUT and I won't I'll see the whole picture someday too I am sure.

[mickyd]

Perhaps a set-up like this. Then you only have to worry about launching one of those pieces into your face.
Mark
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That setup would be to cut the 1/2 widths. Then how to rip the 1/4 thickness?

[pennview]

Mike, your original set-up was bad because the wood you're working with is too short -- 8" -- and, even if it were twice that length, controlling the stock during the second cut might prove difficult.

Here's how I would cut 1/2" by 1/4" strips from 4" x 8" x 13/16" stock on the table saw using a thin kerf (3/32") saw blade:

- Set the blade 7/16" above the table and 1/4" away from the fence (making sure I have saw table support under the wood nearest the fence).

- With the wood standing on edge, I'd make 4 cuts (using a push pad to hold the wood against the fence as I pushed the wood through the blade with my other hand).

- Reset the saw blade to 5/16" above the table and 3 1/2" from the fence (measuring from the fence to the side of the blade opposite the fence so that when I make the next cut I'd leave a 1/2" wide strip.

- With the wood flat on the saw table, I'd make 4 cuts using a push pad similar to what is used on a jointer to push the stock through the cut.

Edited, adding mention of thin kerf blade

[JPG]

Mike, your original set-up was bad because the wood you're working with is too short -- 8" -- and, even if it were twice that length, controlling the stock during the second cut might prove difficult.

Here's how I would cut 1/2" by 1/4" strips from 4" x 8" x 13/16" stock on the table saw:

- Set the blade 7/16" above the table and 1/4" away from the fence (making sure I have saw table support under the wood nearest the fence).

- With the wood standing on edge, I'd make 4 cuts (using a push pad to hold the wood against the fence as I pushed the wood through the blade with my other hand).

- Reset the saw blade to 5/16" above the table and 3 1/2" from the fence (measuring from the fence to the side of the blade opposite the fence so that when I make the next cut I'd leave a 1/2" wide strip.

- With the wood flat on the saw table, I'd make 4 cuts using a push pad similar to what is used on a jointer to push the stock through the cut.

You understand the 'problem'. Hopefully Mickyd is listening and will understand it after your xplanation!

[JPG]

I used the 'human' font feature in sketchup to draw up my interpretation.
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I like the idea. I can't find 4 of the 8 strips you mentioned however so more explanation is needed. Put (") after the 8

So I take it the biggest concern with my original setup was the depth of cut (more than 1/2 way or 2"+) vs.

a) the fact that I don't' have a zero clearance insert(partly) AND
b) I am cutting with the stock between the fence and the blade directly.(U betcha!)
c) KICKBACK! Although the piece is small, it is captive between the fence and the blade with very little protruding beyond the blade for you to hold on to it!


I still ponder why the original setup is NG if I were to cut real slow. The first cut just seems like it would be a breeze. The risk I can think of is having a hand over the blade, pushing down from the top. Is that the issue? The second cut, if it was a complete through cut along the entire length does seem a little funky. Anyway, I wouldn't even question those with experience. You say NO CUT and I won't I'll see the whole picture someday too I am sure.

The first cut is more likely to be successful since it is not all the way through.

BTW your sketch is correct.

As an expedient change, cut 1/2 way to 1/4" then cut the 1/2" dimension as pennview has suggested. The reason to cut the workpiece with the 1/2" dimension on the opposite side of the blade it to make it impossible to get caught between the fence and blade. This requires adjustment for each cut!:(

Then repeat.

Although it seems bass-ackwards, larger projects Are better 'training' projects.

Please be very careful with these small pieces while near the rotating capapult(with multiple teeth:eek:)!

You could cut the 1/2" x 1/8" rabbets b4 cutting the 1/4" x 1/2" strips, but that would put the cut face to the outside on the vertical pieces(requires sanding the visible surface[more]).

[reible]

Hi,

Gee I hate to get to "evolved" with this as I'm thinking this might not be the best first project to try. Small parts can be trouble some even to experienced woodworkers.

I was an experienced woodworker when I got my shopsmith, yet my first shopsmith projects were making jigs out of the PTWFE. I would think this might be a good place to go for you or anyone who is newer to hobby.

If I was King I would say this is how it is going to be but of course I'm only a knight so do as you will. Step one is to learn how to make a zci. Working with wood this small pretty much requires one.

If you are interested I can walk you through some of this stuff keeping it to simple tools and processes.

BTW the method you first described with the vertical cuts is not a bad way to go but needs a few refinements. I've done this lots of time and it works just fine. You will need a tall fence, the zci, a rip blade and the shopsmith safety kit (I you don't have the shopsmith safety kit then I get working on finding one) See:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvsafety_safetykit.htm

And you will need some smaller items like shims, and a hand saw (rip), coping saw...

Ed

[mickyd]

Mike, your original set-up was bad because the wood you're working with is too short -- 8" -- and, even if it were twice that length, controlling the stock during the second cut might prove difficult.

Here's how I would cut 1/2" by 1/4" strips from 4" x 8" x 13/16" stock on the table saw:

- Set the blade 7/16" above the table and 1/4" away from the fence (making sure I have saw table support under the wood nearest the fence).

- With the wood standing on edge, I'd make 4 cuts (using a push pad to hold the wood against the fence as I pushed the wood through the blade with my other hand).

- Reset the saw blade to 5/16" above the table and 3 1/2" from the fence (measuring from the fence to the side of the blade opposite the fence so that when I make the next cut I'd leave a 1/2" wide strip.

- With the wood flat on the saw table, I'd make 4 cuts using a push pad similar to what is used on a jointer to push the stock through the cut.

Here I am again.....thinking I understand but again, as with jpg's, off by a factor. I only see this method giving 2 pieces if flipped on it's horizontal plane after the first cut, and at most 3, if flipped on it's vertical plane then back onto it horizontal plane.....sketchup view shown below.
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My brain hurts!! Maybe it's damaged. If I'm all messed, I think I need to work with something in my hand vs. doing all this flipping and rotating in my brain!! Work is doing enough of that for me today.

[mikelst]

I'm just going to add my 2 cents worth here. I use a push block when working with small peices and have yet to feel as if I was nearing harms way. With all those Shopsmith safety kits (505973) out there and other options available if need be we can all keep our bits away from the sharp moving parts on our tools.