The dance with Lady Green begins ...

[fiatben]

Ouch. Yeah, that's a problem.

I'm sure there's a better way, but I think the first thing I would try is using a threaded coupler and another threaded rod for leverage and see if I could bend it back.

Thanks, Heath. That worked like a charm. It takes a standard 3/8" rod coupling. That, with a deep well socket over it and an extension gave me the leverage to bend it back straight by hand. It's all apart and clean. The only thing left now is to citrustrip the underside up in the recesses where I couldn't get a wire wheel.

[fiatben]

I'm thinking a bit down the road, but at some point I have to paint all these parts. I'm sure this has been covered a 100 times, in detail, but I can't find a quick way to dig thru the 1000s of threads to find it.

Can someone point me the way, or give a quick list on best approach to painting my machine? Also, what do you guys think about powder coating? I saw a place nearby that does it, but have no idea about the costs or durability.

Thanks!!!

[mikelst]

I will admit to knowing next to nothing about power coating.
That being said....

I have found it to be effective to take the parts I've cleaned and Prime them with gray rustolium primer.

Then after the primer has dried I coat them with the appropriate color of paint I want for the finish.

I take my time, get a smooth finish. Several light coats give a more complete coverage and smoother finish than one heavy coat.

After I have a good smooth finish I let it dry for several days, If it is summertime in Texas I frequently take it outside and let it bake in the sun for a while. Just my opinion but I think it helps.

Then finally I apply a few coats of a good car wax to all the painted surfaces. I figure if it is good for the car protects the finish it will do the same on the SHOPSMITH.

So far from what I've seen it is standing up well but I don't have any long term experiance. The oldest paint job I've done is still less than a year old.

Good luck

[JPG]

I would think powder coating would be a good idea! The concerns I would have are that the thickness of it may create interferences.

I am very interested in what the cost may be!

Color selection is another unknown.

[cml]

I'm getting my base frame powder coated as I type. It's expensive, mostly due to the prep involved. I'll let you know how it works out.

[fiatben]

Is it possible to press on the quill bearing (single bearing quill) myself or do I need to find someone with a hydraulic press to do this for me? How easy is it to screw this up if I "try this at home?"

[nuhobby]

Somewhere on this Forum I saw a picture of a quill bearing being pressed onto the shaft with a ~5/8" open-end wrench and a mallet or light hammer.

This may be putting the cart ahead of the horse, but you can also lathe-turn & drill old maple rolling-pins into proper-diameter aid-tools for pressing bearings. The wood has some resilience, so the hammer-strikes don't hurt the bearing. If your custom tool presses against the bearing's inner and outer diameters equally, you avoid stressing the internals of the bearings.

Also, don't forget to use your Freezer... the inner assembly part (e.g., shaft) can be chilled and the outer assembly part (e.g., bearing) can be kept warm, to make them easier to slide over each other.

[billmayo]

Is it possible to press on the quill bearing (single bearing quill) myself or do I need to find someone with a hydraulic press to do this for me? How easy is it to screw this up if I "try this at home?"

I do not recommend a hydraulic press to install bearings as it is very easy to tilt/cock the bearing and destroy the shaft. I find using a wrench and hammer can cause the same problem.

I have accumulated many different ID sizes and lengths of pipes (use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe so you have a square end) (used deep well sockets for years) and use the one that is snug on the shaft to tap the bearing on the shaft. The thing to remember is to apply no pressure on the balls, like placing a deep well socket on the outter race while installing the bearing on a shaft. No bearing should require excessive presure or force to install. Check the shaft/housing to insure no rust, nicks or scratches where the bearing will seat/rest. LocTite makes a bearing compound just for installing bearings if the fit is not tight.

[fiatben]

The thing to remember is to apply no pressure on the balls,

Yeah, I can see where that is kinda critical (snicker, snicker)

But seriously folks, good ideas and I have both deep sockets and a functioning Carba-tec mini-lathe if I want to make my own custom bearing press tool.

I really like doing anything like this with my own stuff and making things to get the job done. Just got done making a 4-wheel steerable dolly for my transmission from 4 castors I had hanging on the wall and 4 scrap 2x4s. If it works out really well, I'll think about going back and making a "purty" one out of some nice wood.

Is this the same case for the other bearings on the drive? The current bearings are actually in very good shape, even if they have rubber seals instead of metal shields. Now that I know how easy it is to dismantle, I'm thinking of just reusing those and dealing with them if they ever become a problem.

[mickyd]

I do not recommend a hydraulic press to install bearings as it is very easy to tilt/cock the bearing and destroy the shaft. I find using a wrench and hammer can cause the same problem.
.........

OK.....so I'm a rebel.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=47789&postcount=206
Even though it's a hammer, there was feel, caution, and TLC used here. This was my ER10 quill bearing replacement.