Shopsmith Forums

keakap wrote:Don't want to leave a bad impression, about the noise and all. I went ahead and used the sanding disc, cacophony be danged, and can't say-- didn't see-- that the speed/load corrections had any effect on the workpiece at all. But effect on me, well, you'd think I could deal with it a little better-- after all, I survive listening to Greta Van Sufferin on Fox every now and then, so obviously I do have a tolerance for truly horrible noises.

Anaway, the sanding went ok, and then switching to drill press mode is like therapy. I mean, when was the last time you forgot to turn off the Shopsmith when you were finished, because you couldn't hardly hear it?

Maybe this is just more "breaking in", as the PPro gets run thru it's various capabilities.

If yours is like mine, it can definitely get better after that call to "Wes" for checking the control coefficients. The before and after for sanding-disk mode were quite a difference, it really got rid of the racket.

After going thru a few "corrections", over the phone with Wes, my Power Pro is purrin like a kitten - incredibly smooth and quiet. Last week it was ripping hard curly maple with ease - no burn marks either.

I've been in the saw mode with the jointer also attached, seems to be an easy set-up for the Power Pro.

Hey All,

Have been working on my upgrade off and on for a couple of days. I have a type B headstock. I am at the point in which I am ready to install the power supply. I have reviewed the video that came with the upgrade and reviewed the online install posted by (I can't remember the name and the paper is out in the shop). The printed instructions have me threading the power cord leads to the switch over the quill lock, through a cord retainer attached to the back of te control panel and connecting to the switch. I have it attached that way but it leaves much less of the pig tail than indicated everywhere but the printed instructions. In fact image 33b shows the connection routing and 34 shows the end of the pig tail almost reaches the outside edge of the bottom of the casting. I am attaching a couple of pics one of my current state of build and one of the instructions. Should I leave it like the printed instuctions or not rout the cord over the quill lock? Also, the tab on the back of my switch that the black power cord attches to is slightly loose. Should I go ahead and replace the switch now or will it be OK? Don't like the plastic switch SS sent but I can get a better one at a local eletrical supply tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any assistance....

claimdude wrote:Hey All,

Have been working on my upgrade off and on for a couple of days. I have a type B headstock. I am at the point in which I am ready to install the power supply. I have reviewed the video that came with the upgrade and reviewed the online install posted by (I can't remember the name and the paper is out in the shop). The printed instructions have me threading the power cord leads to the switch over the quill lock, through a cord retainer attached to the back of te control panel and connecting to the switch. I have it attached that way but it leaves much less of the pig tail than indicated everywhere but the printed instructions. In fact image 33b shows the connection routing and 34 shows the end of the pig tail almost reaches the outside edge of the bottom of the casting. I am attaching a couple of pics one of my current state of build and one of the instructions. Should I leave it like the printed instuctions or not rout the cord over the quill lock? Also, the tab on the back of my switch that the black power cord attches to is slightly loose. Should I go ahead and replace the switch now or will it be OK? Don't like the plastic switch SS sent but I can get a better one at a local eletrical supply tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any assistance....

FWIW Earlier version of install manual did NOT route the line cord over the quill. ???

Make sure your 'non-plastic' switch has a higher electrical rating than the 'plastic' one.

claimdude wrote:Hey All,

Have been working on my upgrade off and on for a couple of days. I have a type B headstock. I am at the point in which I am ready to install the power supply. I have reviewed the video that came with the upgrade and reviewed the online install posted by (I can't remember the name and the paper is out in the shop). The printed instructions have me threading the power cord leads to the switch over the quill lock, through a cord retainer attached to the back of te control panel and connecting to the switch. I have it attached that way but it leaves much less of the pig tail than indicated everywhere but the printed instructions. In fact image 33b shows the connection routing and 34 shows the end of the pig tail almost reaches the outside edge of the bottom of the casting. I am attaching a couple of pics one of my current state of build and one of the instructions. Should I leave it like the printed instuctions or not rout the cord over the quill lock? Also, the tab on the back of my switch that the black power cord attches to is slightly loose. Should I go ahead and replace the switch now or will it be OK? Don't like the plastic switch SS sent but I can get a better one at a local eletrical supply tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any assistance....

I would not do anything differently than instructed without talking to Shopsmith. Having said that, I would read the comditions for the warranty very carefully.

The original switch in my tupe "B" headstock had loose tabs so I used the plastic switch furnished with the DIY kit. I talked to Dave in customer service and he told me that they no longer have the old type toggle switches. The plastic switch is now the replacement.

That said, with the Power Pro, the toggle switch, either old style or the new plastic one, doesn't get nearly as much use. The on/off "pads" on the Power Pro control panel are now used much more often.

If, for any reason, it becomes necessary to replace this switch - is it easily accessible or does the PowerPro need to be disassembled? The pictures that I have seem to indicate that there is not much room in there to move around.

JPG40504 wrote:FWIW Earlier version of install manual did NOT route the line cord over the quill. ???

Make sure your 'non-plastic' switch has a higher electrical rating than the 'plastic' one.

I don't know if the the earlier version of the manual had different cord routing.

On the switch issue. The maunal says if you have a type B or C headstock the new switch is not needed. Should I still be concerened about the power rating of my existing switch?

I'll try SS in a little while and see if they are open and get some advice.

Thanks for the feedback!
Jack

Dusty:

Once the switch is "in there", getting to it again would require a lot of work, that's why I didn't want to trust my old switch. It had gone thru a lot of cycles and the tabs were loose. Murphy's Law would probably have caught up with me if I had used it.

While the new switch is plastic. It is in fact new, and since it will receive far fewer cycles in the future I went with it.

Yes, order and replace the switch! Removing the motor and the Power module (with disconnecting the power strips [wire connectors]) to get at the switch is a chore you can avoid by renewing now!