Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:54 pm
cmccarter1 wrote:You mentioned a method by Tom for drilling blanks. can you give me some specifics or point to to that thread.
tnx
It is post #10.
It is post #10.
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Pen turning 101
Page 7 of 10
It is post #10.
Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:31 pm
Mark,
Thank you very much for a fine tutorial series!
Here's my own take:
I do use a tiny bit of superglue when assembling the clip end (I use a toothpick to apply a touch of superglue to the clip, where it looks like a washer). I don't bother using superglue putting the clip finial in, or the nib, or the transmission. Maybe I misunderstood your post on assembling the hardware, though.
A couple more sources: Craft Supplies USA (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/) is also a good supplier, though I prefer Penn State's catalog; Woodcraft (especially if there's one local to you). I hear Rockler also has pen making supplies, so if you've got one local to you, by all means visit them.
Lastly: For beginning penturners, I suggest one-tube pen kits (see example attached). They may be slightly more expensive than the slimline kits, but they're much easier to turn! (Only need to match up two bushing ends, not 4)
For all who are thinking of jumping in: Just do it! You'll have a blast. Everyone sort of comes up with their own "what works for them."
Again, thanks for taking the time & effort to put together a great tutorial!
[ATTACH]12345[/ATTACH]
Thank you very much for a fine tutorial series!
Here's my own take:
I do use a tiny bit of superglue when assembling the clip end (I use a toothpick to apply a touch of superglue to the clip, where it looks like a washer). I don't bother using superglue putting the clip finial in, or the nib, or the transmission. Maybe I misunderstood your post on assembling the hardware, though.
A couple more sources: Craft Supplies USA (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/) is also a good supplier, though I prefer Penn State's catalog; Woodcraft (especially if there's one local to you). I hear Rockler also has pen making supplies, so if you've got one local to you, by all means visit them.
Lastly: For beginning penturners, I suggest one-tube pen kits (see example attached). They may be slightly more expensive than the slimline kits, but they're much easier to turn! (Only need to match up two bushing ends, not 4)
For all who are thinking of jumping in: Just do it! You'll have a blast. Everyone sort of comes up with their own "what works for them."
Again, thanks for taking the time & effort to put together a great tutorial!
[ATTACH]12345[/ATTACH]
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:53 am
I don't use glue on the transmissions but I do glue the clip to keep it from working loose and spinning. It will leave a groove on the wood if it does so. I had one batch of kits that the lower tip fit really loosely so I got into the habit of just using a little glue there as well. Better safe than sorry in my opinion. As to worrying about removal of the parts it is like an airplane backing up.
I just chunk it and start from scratch.
Nice looking pen hdtran. I really like the inlay.
I just chunk it and start from scratch.Nice looking pen hdtran. I really like the inlay.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:35 pm
Definitely thanks Mark. I learned a lesson about sanding the brass tubes and have now bumped a 4 jaw chuck up on my wish list.hdtran wrote:Mark,
Thank you very much for a fine tutorial series!
A couple more sources: Craft Supplies USA (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/) is also a good supplier, though I prefer Penn State's catalog]12345[/ATTACH]
I agree with hdtran regarding "Just Do It! You'll have a blast!" get started and figure out what works best with the resources you have. Although I do recommend some of the really inexpensive fun line slimline kits that come in packs of 5. at less than 2 bucks a hit, it's much easier to stomach a goof.
hdtran,
Nice looking pen.
Inlay or segmented? Species would also be nice to know.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:11 pm
Segmented, as opposed to inlay. Purpleheart (it doesn't look like purpleheart because of artificial lighting and camera operator incompetence) on maple.
Cut two slices of purpleheart of equal thickness at a bias; sand smooth; cut a maple blank on the bias; sand smooth, glue in one of the slices of purpleheart, clamp & dry; cut the opposite bias and remove the correct thickness; insert the second slice, glue, clamp, & dry.
Saw cuts were done on the Shopsmith bandsaw, cleaned up with the Shopsmith disc sander (see a theme here?) and glued using epoxy. If you've made a tablesaw sled with appropriate clamps and you have a dado blade, you could also do it by dado-ing a slit in the maple, insert the segment, glue, dry, then, dado-ing a second slit, etc.
I did 5-7 layers of boiled linseed oil/superglue on the finish (check the late Russ Fairfield's website for the finish, and many youtube videos). If you're going to do the superglue finish, wear proper protective equipment (face shield, gloves, mask, and have dust collector sucking fumes away).
Cut two slices of purpleheart of equal thickness at a bias; sand smooth; cut a maple blank on the bias; sand smooth, glue in one of the slices of purpleheart, clamp & dry; cut the opposite bias and remove the correct thickness; insert the second slice, glue, clamp, & dry.
Saw cuts were done on the Shopsmith bandsaw, cleaned up with the Shopsmith disc sander (see a theme here?) and glued using epoxy. If you've made a tablesaw sled with appropriate clamps and you have a dado blade, you could also do it by dado-ing a slit in the maple, insert the segment, glue, dry, then, dado-ing a second slit, etc.
I did 5-7 layers of boiled linseed oil/superglue on the finish (check the late Russ Fairfield's website for the finish, and many youtube videos). If you're going to do the superglue finish, wear proper protective equipment (face shield, gloves, mask, and have dust collector sucking fumes away).
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:27 pm
[quote="hdtran"]Segmented, as opposed to inlay. Purpleheart (it doesn't look like purpleheart because of artificial lighting and camera operator incompetence) on maple.
Cut two slices of purpleheart of equal thickness at a bias]
Look more like this?:)
[ATTACH]12354[/ATTACH]
Cut two slices of purpleheart of equal thickness at a bias]
Look more like this?:)
[ATTACH]12354[/ATTACH]
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:47 pm
great tutorial, I know it has encourage me to turn again, haven't in about 15 years.
I did PDF the entire thread, so if anyone would like the 7 pages of pdf sent to them, pm me your personal email and I'll send it out.
I did PDF the entire thread, so if anyone would like the 7 pages of pdf sent to them, pm me your personal email and I'll send it out.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:05 pm
So that's why your screen name is JPG...! You're a master at fixing jpg photos!JPG40504 wrote:Look more like this?:)
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:25 pm
hdtran wrote:So that's why your screen name is JPG...! You're a master at fixing jpg photos!
I cannot take any credit! 1 click in 'Irfanview' is all it took!;)
I click on all my genre b4 posting! Makes up for a lot of 'defects'.
Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:47 pm
Mark- (or anyone else that wants to chime in)..
Do you have any good suggestions on a quality mandrel that is OK for use w/ the SS and hopefully made in the USA? I guess I need more lathe parts as I've only got the bare basics that came with my machine.. Right now I'm thinking the Mandrel saver is worth getting but see quite a few other mandrels on the PSI site and don't know enough about them...
Thx!
Great thread by the way!
Do you have any good suggestions on a quality mandrel that is OK for use w/ the SS and hopefully made in the USA? I guess I need more lathe parts as I've only got the bare basics that came with my machine.. Right now I'm thinking the Mandrel saver is worth getting but see quite a few other mandrels on the PSI site and don't know enough about them...
Thx!
Great thread by the way!