Refurbing a Scroll Saw

[dj1960gold]

I guess I've never been impressed with the oil in oilite bronze bushings;)

This mod just seemed good considering there was some leftover oil on the pivots/bushings when I took it all apart. I was motivated by the wear featured earlier in the thread:D

The middle pivot was just the most worn of the three and I used it for my initial testing. I was never going to add oil to that one once finished with the refurbishment.

Regarding the logos, I still have them. I think I'll glue them to some thin plastic from my wife's yogurt container tops, and then perhaps add a small stick on magnet to the back of the plastic so they will hold against the mounting bolts. Easily removed for the next refurbishment.

I did not replace the bronze bushings so I do have some side to side play in the old saw. I may go back in again and replace those if I dislike the extra movement when using the machine.

I didn't replace the large roll pin either. It has wear, but not nearly as much as the one featured earlier in the thread. I thought perhaps a small sex bolt would fit in there perfectly, but decided not to go on the wild goose chase to find the perfect fitting replacement for that roll pin (not much room in the housing for an alternative).

To add oil to the pivots, I will have to remove the blade/holder and perhaps the table first. Then set the saw down on its left side so the power coupler is pointing up. Next remove the right side pivot mounting bolts and drop in the oil.............once every 5 years.............or sooner if my sons and I start building a bunch of RC airplanes like I used to do with my brothers and uncle.

[algale]

The upper arm has less than 1/16" side play. The lower arm has even less, but the connecting rod etc. is probably limiting the play.

The sleeves were quite snug on the posts and press fitted to the arm.

I realize this is an old thread, but I've been going through it as I've been cleaning up my new-to-me teal scroll saw. I became interested because I am having trouble following the lines on some test cuts through some 1/2 inch red oak. It may be technique/blade selection/blade tension, but I definitely feel like the arm is being pushed to the side as I am trying to follow the line and that this has contributed to my inaccuracy.

So I got out the digital calipers and measured side play. From center, if I apply side pressure to the front of the upper arm, I measure less than 1/16th (0.05 to be exact) travel right and a similar amount to the left. So total travel is around 0.10 or less than 1/8th.

JPG, when you measured this side play, do you remember whether that <1/16th measurement you took represented the total side play or is that to one side from center?

Al

[JPG]

I realize this is an old thread, but I've been going through it as I've been cleaning up my new-to-me teal scroll saw. I became interested because I am having trouble following the lines on some test cuts through some 1/2 inch red oak. It may be technique/blade selection/blade tension, but I definitely feel like the arm is being pushed to the side as I am trying to follow the line and that this has contributed to my inaccuracy.

So I got out the digital calipers and measured side play. From center, if I apply side pressure to the front of the upper arm, I measure less than 1/16th (0.05 to be exact) travel right and a similar amount to the left. So total travel is around 0.10 or less than 1/8th.

JPG, when you measured this side play, do you remember whether that <1/16th measurement you took represented the total side play or is that to one side from center?

Al

Total. That is how I would 'define' it.

[algale]

Total. That is how I would 'define' it.

That makes me think it is quite possibly an "issue" to be addressed.

If any one with either the gray or teal scroll saw would measure the amount of side play they have in the upper arm and reply to this thread, I would appreciate it.

[dusty]

I have a gray scroll saw from the late 90s.

The upper arm moves with only slight force. It moves in both directions but not equally. It can be pushed to the left 1/16" and to the right 1/8".

Because of the way a scroll saw works, I do not see why this forced lateral movement would cause any issues.

UNLESS you can determine that there is lateral movement when the scroll saw is powered. As best I could, I watched for lateral movement while cutting and I see none.

[algale]

I have a gray scroll saw from the late 90s.

The upper arm moves with only slight force. It moves in both directions but not equally. It can be pushed to the left 1/16" and to the right 1/8".

Because of the way a scroll saw works, I do not see why this forced lateral movement would cause any issues.

UNLESS you can determine that there is lateral movement when the scroll saw is powered. As best I could, I watched for lateral movement while cutting and I see none.

What I am seeing, when under power, is that as I try to follow a random wavy line through this 1/2 inch red oak, the cut is deflecting away from the line and I can observe the lateral distance between the blade (which is attached to the arms) and the hold down (which is attached to the immobile arm cover) changes. Thus, either the blade is bending under the lateral forces or the arm is moving under the lateral forces, or both.

I was using a fairly thin scroll saw blade and I tensioned it about as high as I could without it popping out of one of the blade blocks. Thinking the blade might be the problem, I changed to a somewhat thicker blade and experienced the same.

I believe that what I am experiencing may therefore be due to the arm moving to the side. I may have to rethink that conclusion, however, because you are reporting equal or greater side play at rest than I have in my saw and yet it sounds like you are not experiencing any performance issues. So perhaps it may be my lack of technique.

[dusty]

What I am seeing, when under power, is that as I try to follow a random wavy line through this 1/2 inch red oak, the cut is deflecting away from the line and I can observe the lateral distance between the blade (which is attached to the arms) and the hold down (which is attached to the immobile arm cover) changes. Thus, either the blade is bending under the lateral forces or the arm is moving under the lateral forces, or both.

I was using a fairly thin scroll saw blade and I tensioned it about as high as I could without it popping out of one of the blade blocks. Thinking the blade might be the problem, I changed to a somewhat thicker blade and experienced the same.

I believe that what I am experiencing may therefore be due to the arm moving to the side. I may have to rethink that conclusion, however, because you are reporting equal or greater side play at rest than I have in my saw and yet it sounds like you are not experiencing any performance issues. So perhaps it may be my lack of technique.

As long as you have a sharp blade and you are not forcing the cut, there is not much technique involved.

Most of my scroll saw work is with 1/2" or 1/4" birch plywood. That could make a difference. I'll try to find some cut offs that are more like what you are working with to test.

[JPG]

How about blade tooth 'set'. If the back of the blade is pressing against one side of the kerf, it will resist redirection of the cut.

If the arm(s) are 'sloppy' you should be able to see the deviation from 'normal'.

Minimum radius of cut factors are the same as with the bandsaw, but the scroll saw blades are much 'shallower'. The rocking motion of the scroll saw also affects the minimum radius compared to the straight line motion of the bandsaw.

Add blade material 'stoutness' to all this.

[reible]

Hi,

I've been adding new things to my to-do list and a rebuild of my scroll saw has been on the list for some years already. Perhaps this will be the year to do it.

My saw came to me used. How much used I can't really say. When it arrived it was for the most part in working order. I did some cleaning, especially the table top which had some sort of gunk on it, a little oil for the pump and then did the upgrades that has it to status of as modern as a gray saw can be.

I don't recall the amount of play when I got it but my use has gotten it to about 1/4". Mind you I can still use it this way but some fresh bushings/rods are on tap. I also want to look at tension washers to further reduce play (I have not had it apart so I'm only guessing that would be an improvement, once apart and play time will determine the finial solution).

I grew up with my brother owning one of those big cast iron jig saws, perhaps pre-1950's. He took it with him when he moved so I had little experience with it other then making small scraps into even smaller scraps.

The first jig saw I got (used) was one of these vibration versions that made use of a electromagnet to create a lot of noise and a small amount of movement on what was likely a 3" blade. If you have some old woodworking mags from around 1950 you will spot them, maybe 7"x7" table for $10 and I couldn't even afford a new one??? I also still have one of the handheld versions in the shop somewhere. To be honest a coping saw was faster but power tools were so cool........

With play of say 1/16" it still should be quite useable, at least I think so, given what I have now. Of course smaller amounts are more desirable and I too want to improve my saw so I would look at that as a future change.

I feel that if you have never used such a saw before it may not be an automatic fit for your skill set. I would get some cheap 1/4" plywood, cut it into say foot squares and start making it into shapes, just free hand work to get a feel for the operation. Trick is to be pushing into the blade in the direction you want to cut and to move the work piece (a lot), to keep the blade where it is, while letting the blade cut the turns. Slow is good at first. You maybe surprised by how much you move the workpiece at first but that is how it works.

Next start with some lines to follow. Make them simple and work to harder smaller turns, waves, curves, strait, backing up, circles, etc. Use some of that same plywood and spend sometime getting a feel for cutting.

Next look up a few on-line pattern and either glue the paper on some more of the plywood and try making something. Put it together and try and do a good job, you will get a feel for how much sanding it takes and if things are fitting without much effort.

When you are happy with how things are going then pick out a project with different woods and or thicknesses, see how things go if you have odd grains or knots. If you are a natural to the tool then this stuff can happen right away, others it may take a week or longer.

I don't think it matters but I do feel that experience counts. I know a lady that use to sew for a living, she picked up scroll sawing in about 10 seconds. Also a wiz on the bandsaw. Just saying.

Ed

[JPG]

. . . Trick is to be pushing into the blade in the direction you want to cut and to move the work piece (a lot), to keep the blade where it is, while letting the blade cut the turns.
. . .

AMEN!!!!!!!!!!:)