Modification Bandsaw (Cast Iron table version)

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I applaud your sequence of adjusting!

Rear bearing(L-R [and parallel to blade])

Lower bearing(L-R)

Upper bearing (L-R) (and same at top and bottom of post position) [This positions the post parallel to the blade(L-R again)]

Upper bearing (in-out) (and same at top and bottom of post position) [This positions the post parallel to the blade, but this time in-out] FWIW that is NOT vertical!

The inclusion of the split backup bearings adds to the complexity of these adjustments. The L-R adjustments become more critical.

As you demonstrated, one must 'sneak' up on the final setting, and hold the screw positions when securing the jam nut so as to move the two screws in equal as well as opposite direction.(and readjust tension by moving both screws the same amount in the same direction while doing so)

I feel a need to observe that the blade is not allowed to deviate from a tangential line between both wheels during all of this.

Quite easy to 'get lost' while doing all this!

Be thankful for success the 'first' time!!!!! :cool:

I hope this 'summary' highlights the crucial details of your procedure and helps others.;) My own sequence is the same!(it was NOT the first time however!!! :()
Last edited by JPG on Tue Jan 27, 2015 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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reible
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Post by reible »

Today is/was cover day. As I have mentioned many times the cover on this bandsaw was not looking very good, it has been bugging me so I sanded some of the high points and cleaned it up for paint. I don't mind it looking a little old, it gives it character so I didn't attempt any filling.

I mask the window and the logo areas, at the time I wasn't sure what I was going to do there but it couldn't hurt to keep it protected. It is now out drying, two coats done with in 24 hours as specified. Still a little to hot and humid but I wanted to get it done.

I then remembered a logo that Nick gave us some years back. Figured I print one up to try on the cover. When I bring the cover in for the evening I'll cut the logo to fit and see how it looks. I have high hopes.

[ATTACH]13846[/ATTACH]

Should get a clear spray to cover it first before I install it with 3M adhesive.

Ed
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reible
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Post by reible »

More logo photos

The original one:

[ATTACH]13849[/ATTACH]

The one I think I will use:

[ATTACH]13850[/ATTACH]

Ed
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

I like your version much better than the original I hope you use it instead of the old ugly one. Nice job by the way it looks great.
Michael Mayo
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1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....:D
Shop_Smith_Poppi
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Post by Shop_Smith_Poppi »

Ed as usual you have proven to me that I am in dire need of understanding how things work before I use them. I was doing quite well following all of the previous posts in this thread until you started talking about adjusting the blade.

Now I am completely lost and wish you would please please make up a post with pictures showing what you are talking about. I am a visual learner and just could not follow you at all.

As for the rest of your posts I was very pleased and now cant wait till I am able to get my new ( But used) Bandsaw in proper working order.
"Jerry! how many times do I have to tell you! Lick that knife before you put it back in the butter!" ..... Jerry Clower's Mother.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Shop_Smith_Poppi wrote:Ed as usual you have proven to me that I am in dire need of understanding how things work before I use them. I was doing quite well following all of the previous posts in this thread until you started talking about adjusting the blade.

Now I am completely lost and wish you would please please make up a post with pictures showing what you are talking about. I am a visual learner and just could not follow you at all.

As for the rest of your posts I was very pleased and now cant wait till I am able to get my new ( But used) Bandsaw in proper working order.

I will attempt to describe(with pix) that which I believe Ed was describing. Rather than hi-jack his thread, I will create a new one. which shall be labeled "Bandsaw blade tracking adjustments etc.".

How's that for out of box thinking re title?:D
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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reible
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Post by reible »

Hi,

I'm on assignment dog/house sitting for one of my Sons, still have access via my laptop to the forum but no opportunity to do any pictorial on the bandsaw for a few days. Since we have a volunteer I'm inclined to defer to his offer.

I will make a few more comments on this effort because I don't want to confuse anyone into thinking that all of these adjustments need to be done often... or at least I hope not.

In my case, changing to dual bearings, adding the anti slop adjustment and general clean up required me to take things apart. If you do these sorts of changes you will have to deal with the full range of adjustments.

Other changes like going to thicker tires will change the effective diameter of the wheels thus the position of the dual bearings...

Other changes like replacing the blade is more of a guide block adjustment thing if you change widths or thickness of blade. The other alignment should not be effected, at least not to the point of having to do a major one as described earlier.

So that's my story and I'm sticking to it at least for now.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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reible
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Post by reible »

Since I have done the work and since you like it then I'll go with the new logo! The color is not standard shopsmith so why would the logo be?

At least I think it is unique, so when they pry my cold dead hands off my shopsmith equipment and sell if off on ebay you can all ID it. Should go for top dollar since I once owned it.

Ed

wannabewoodworker wrote:I like your version much better than the original I hope you use it instead of the old ugly one. Nice job by the way it looks great.
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Shop_Smith_Poppi
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Post by Shop_Smith_Poppi »

reible wrote:Since I have done the work and since you like it then I'll go with the new logo! The color is not standard shopsmith so why would the logo be?

At least I think it is unique, so when they pry my cold dead hands off my shopsmith equipment and sell if off on ebay you can all ID it. Should go for top dollar since I once owned it.

Ed
ED,

Hey I save them the trouble of trying to sell it on E-bay or CL just add me to your will and include your tools I promise I will take very good care of them.
Well it was worth a shot anyways never hurts to dream.
"Jerry! how many times do I have to tell you! Lick that knife before you put it back in the butter!" ..... Jerry Clower's Mother.
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reible
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Post by reible »

If you have happened to have read the rest of this thread you will know that I have been fixing up a shopsmith bandsaw, so to say tweaking it.

I managed to find enough money to get another "wood slicer" by not buying in to the new caster set offered by shopsmith. I have one of these blades for my other bandsaw and think very highly of it. Haven't had time to mount and use it on the shopsmith yet, saving it for a project.

I also got a cheaper blade for cutting up some MDF, 3/8 x 6. Interesting note on the back of that one. "Recoiling the blade after use is not recommended" I've also seen some net chatter about this on smaller length blades like the shopsmith uses. I can understand where this might be an issue but this is the first time I've seen it on a blade package.

Now if it is the case that they should not be recoiled storage is going to be an issue.

Has any one else seen this on a package?

[ATTACH]14283[/ATTACH]

Ed
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