Shopsmith Forums

Here's something on using Bluing on bronze / brass (?):
http://www.billcarterwoodworkingplanema ... uk/12.html
(under his Techniques)

That is such a cool process Mike. Great work again.

Paul M

shipwright wrote:That is such a cool process Mike. Great work again.

Paul M

I provided the labor, you provided the idea. Thanks. That brass ruler is really going to make a difference looks wise.

tdubnik wrote:I wonder if gun bluing would do the trick?

After a ton of surfing and googling to find the best way to darken the etches features, I found a product at Rockler called "Brass Darkening Solution". $5. I'm going to give it a try.

Came across a method that uses a mash of hard boiled eggs and Palmolive dish detergent that I was tempted to try but they say it stinks to high heavens. The sulfur in the eggs and some sulfur derivatives in the detergent reacts with the copper in the brass. Made the eggs but I ate them instead.

'Liver of sulfur' at art supply houses works too.

mickyd wrote:I provided the labor, you provided the idea. Thanks. That brass ruler is really going to make a difference looks wise.


After a ton of surfing and googling to find the best way to darken the etches features, I found a product at Rockler called "Brass Darkening Solution". $5. I'm going to give it a try.

Came across a method that uses a mash of hard boiled eggs and Palmolive dish detergent that I was tempted to try but they say it stinks to high heavens. The sulfur in the eggs and some sulfur derivatives in the detergent reacts with the copper in the brass. Made the eggs but I ate them instead.

'Liver of sulfur' at art supply houses works too.

I think those are going to create a brown 'patina'.

Wonder what moly kote (molybdenum di sulfide)(sp???) would do? Probably would need a 'binder' to get it to 'stick'.

I think Black Paint would contrast better than red paint. ORRRRR you could do it in multi color(1/32 = green, 1/16 = blue, 1/8 = black, 1/4" = red, 1" Black). ;>}}}}}}

mickyd wrote:I love it!!! A guy that gets right to the point. Thanks. No hurt feelings obliterating my idea.

So stick with the bandsaw, huh? The more I've thought about this, I am feeling the same considering the 3" thickness AND the relatively short 5" length.

Earlier I commented about a fence on the bandsaw. I have seen where some have modified the main table fence to fit the band saw. I continue to use a straight board with a couple of C-clamps or use what you will see in this pic. And, using the mitre gauge, you can easily set the desired angle. Quick and easy, just what I like.

[quote="swampgator"]Earlier I commented about a fence on the bandsaw. I have seen where some have modified the main table fence to fit the band saw. I continue to use a straight board with a couple of C-clamps or use what you will see in this pic. And, using the mitre gauge, you can easily set the desired angle. Quick and easy, just what I like. ]
You have the cast iron band saw table.

I think what you are referring to as a modified main table is shown in this link.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555667&Submit=Find+Item

Reference was to cutting the furniture legs on the bandsaw versus the table saw. Micky posted a pic showing using a mitre guage with the fence on the table saw, but several folks encouraged him to use the bandsaw because of safety and stock size issues. This set up would have been handy. He still would have had to tape the cut off pieces back to keep the side uniform, but this is a quick and easy set up.

The older machines, as far as I know, all had cast iron tables on the bandsaw. The 520 is the only one that I know with all this extra hardware and the table is made of aluminum. Both my 500's have bandsaws that came with them as part of a package deal. So, just experimenting one day gave this option as posted in the pic. Yes, the pictured machine is Sept. 1985, and the one still being adjusted and refurbished is Dec. 1984. Acquired both machines from original owners. One given and the other purchased. Yes, some would consider them old according to standards to today's machinery. I used to purchase all my tools from Sears, but when I purchased a few power tools and went back a couple of years later for support parts, they didn't have them nor would they make an effort to get them. So, have modified some of my replacement parts to retrofit my Craftsman tools and working well. I grew up when things weren't plentiful, we didn't throw it away until it just couldn't be used anymore. I watched my grandpa straighten nails he had removed from something else. And, I have grew up with the idea, if it is totally useless, then toss it, else keep it. I am so thankful that SS maintains parts for these wonderful tools. And, I have such options as doing the same work as many shops without having to use so much space. Loved this tool when I first saw them in a mall in the 1970's.

[quote="swampgator"]Reference was to cutting the furniture legs on the bandsaw versus the table saw. Micky posted a pic showing using a mitre guage with the fence on the table saw, but several folks encouraged him to use the bandsaw because of safety and stock size issues. This set up would have been handy. He still would have had to tape the cut off pieces back to keep the side uniform, but this is a quick and easy set up. ]


Yep! I misread it!!!:o

The CI table has that cross slot specifically for that purpose since no fence was included in the design.

No problem! Wifey tells me I have a confusing way of explaining things. Yet, after 37 years, she's still here. It must be the paycheck.

Here's the finished setup gage, including the custom made brass scale. (thanks again for that idea shipwright!!)
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[ATTACH]10202[/ATTACH]
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The 'brass darkening solution' from Rockler worked great on enhancing the etched lines. First tried brushing it on just the etched portions but it just puddled. It doesn't have good wetting properties. I then poured the 2 oz bottle in a ziplock bag and stuck the entire scale in it submerging it completely. After about 5 minutes, I removed the scale and it was completely black, similar to what's left over after you do electrolysis on steel. Rinsed in tap water and baking soda mix to stop the action and wiped it down with a paper towel. After that, rubbed off the black with 00 steel wool making sure to not press down too hard so that it left it down in the etched areas. The photo makes the etched areas look a blue gray but it actually appears a dark gray to the eyes. Very satisfied with the process.

The scale has to be able to move vertically in order to do a depth measurement so it's adhered to steel scale with double sided tape and there are 2 rare earth magnets epoxied into the wood that hold it in place.