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Managed to get the 'finicky' work completed on the house number sign. Got to work on two new processes, machine dovetails and scroll saw lettering. Did plenty of practicing on scrap pieces first, especially with the dovetail jig. Jigs a HF knock off of ones by Woodstock Internationaland Rockler. Ran just over $20 (with inside track membership).
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When I cut out the copper motifs for the candle lantern project, I broke a ton of blades that I know now was due to blade tension issues and also not having the optimum style blade for all the tight turns. This plan called out #5 univ. 12-1/2 tpi skip tooth. All the blades I had were Ryobi's and packaging didn't specify the #. I started using what I had on the practice cuts and quickly broke 2 in the tight turns (due to overheating) so decided to head to Rockler and get the ones the plan called out. HUGE difference. The #5 is a much smaller blade (back of blade to tip of teeth) than any of the Ryobi blades carried by Home Depot. Ready for the real cuts!!!

Watched a bunch of youtube videos last night on scroll saw work. Picked up some great tips that worked real well for me today.

1. Adjust blade tension so when plucked, it makes the sound of a 'high C' note. That meant ZERO to me but LOML has one of those music things you blow into to tune instruments and my ear is now tuned to what high C is. General consensus also seemed to be more tension is better than less if your going to err one way or the other.
2. If applying a letter paper pattern to the stock vs. using carbon paper to outline the lettering, use spray adhesive FOLLOWED UP by a layer of clear box tape (aka packing tape). It said the clear packing tape serves two purposes. One, it acts as a blade lubricant AND assists in the removal of the pattern when your done. To remove the paper pattern, use a heat gun and the packing tape shrivels up, in turn pulling the paper and adhesive up off the stock eliminating the need to sand it off. Worked great. The heat gun actually blows the paper/tape right off unassisted. Anyone that glued the paper to the stock without then covering it with the packing tape definately needs to try this method. Makes removal a breeze.

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The design calls for scroll saw lettering that gets cut out at a taper angle so that the lettering can be recessed into wood simulating a router cut. To do that, the saw table is tilted about 2-1/2 degrees so that the lettering actually has a small taper. When the blade is removed, the lettering gets pressing into the hole and because of the taper, it stops at about 1/4" deep. Pretty neat effect. This shows the the lettering getting cut out.
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Here's what it looks like so far.
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Botched up a little on the letter 'o' when drilling the saw blades pilot hole. The drill chuck jaw contacted the worksurface. Little wood putty should do the trick, I hope.

The next shot shows the half blind dovetail joint. This was done in place of the plans butt joint (had to justify why I bought the dovetail jig somehow ) . Came out pretty decent. The shot also shows the lettering protruding on the back surface that needs to get cut off and sanded down flush.
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One more day and the woodworking part of the project is complete (finish sanding, gluing the dovetail joints and the lettering in, doweling the top numbers to the frame). After that, mounting it on the house and running electricity to it for the backlighting. I'll be using 2-12V license plate lights which get mounted to the back surface.

mickyd wrote: The shot also shows the lettering protruding on the back surface that needs to get cut off and sanded down flush.

Looking great... Just curious, why does the lettering need to be cut down flush on the back? Isn't it completely out of sight?

Loking very good Mike.

Paul M

robinson46176 wrote:Looking great... Just curious, why does the lettering need to be cut down flush on the back? Isn't it completely out of sight?

Because 'it is written in the plan'. Seriously though, I thought (and am still thinking) the same thing. Two surface mount 12V lights get screwed onto the back surface about 3 inches in from each end. The only technical reason I can think of is the protruding lettering will put the lights closer to the side of the house effecting the light diffusion.

I'll cut them off with the table saw / rip fence then belt sand them flush. This will be easy since I can still take the sides off. They are only dry assembled.

Looking great, Mike! I have that same dovetail jig (different branding on it), but a couple of the knobs are broke. I bought it for $10 as it is. I didn't realize what rough shape it was in when I bought it. Guess I should have just forked over another $10 for a new one at HF.

mickyd wrote:Ran just over $20 (with inside track membership).

What is 'inside track membership"? Is that for Harbor Frieght?

My goodness!! I built the house number sign in a weekend and it took me a month to get it final sanded and actually mount it on my house!!! Scheeezzzeee. Here's a couple of in progress shots I took that I never posted.

The numbers were mounted to the base using dowels. Got to use my ER10 and new forstner bit set.
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Here's how it looked without a finish on it.
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I was going to leave the wood natural color and just apply a clear weatherproof protection coating. My house is a light stucco and the sign just didn't show up very well. It wasn't contrasty enough so I decided to apply a cedar weatherproof wood finish I had left over from a fence project. (Behr premium 501) That added the contrast needed to clearly see the sign during the day.
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All that's left to do is add a dusk / dawn light sensor to it so that the lighting is controlled automatically. JPG helped me locate an inexpensive sensor from Ace Hardware.

Onward to my next project. Details tomorrow.

Mike, that is neat. Good job.

mickyd wrote: . . .
All that's left to do is add a dusk / dawn light sensor to it so that the lighting is controlled automatically.
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Remember to point the sensor towards Oregon!;) Stained version much gooder! 'Fixed' 'o' looks almost invisible.


INSIDE TRACK??????? Hope ya used a 20% off coupon!!! Didja get another flashlight also???

NEXT???

Next project.....

Design credit on this project goes to shipwright. He emailed a photo of a simplistic yet soigné shop stool that he's made several of. His neighbor wanted one so as he made it up, he documented the process / dimensions. I'm not too proud to steal it from him!!

I decided to go with poplar since it's the least expensive hardwood. I liked working with it when I made the furniture legs. Went to the local hardwood lumber yard and saw a piece of 8/4 by 2' length in the 'hobby box'. That's were the dregs (aka cull) goes. Perfect length and thickness for the two stools I plan on making. Plus, it was about 1/2 price!! ($2.50/bf) Grabbed that and 2" x 2" x 20' for and legs and stretcher pieces. Total damages.....~$30.

Got the material home and noticed that the 8/4 x 2' had a through crack that went 3/4 of the length. So that's why it was 1/2 price!!
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Decided that rather than spending $5 for gas to return it, I'd see if it could be glued once I got the thing halved for the two seats.

This was the heftiest piece of lumber that the Greenie has seen. I was initially going to bandsaw thought it but wanted to see what the 3/4 HP motor could do. Went through it like butter.
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Once it was cut in half, a mallet hit on the face easily split it along the crack. The two surfaces were nice and clean so I felt comfortable gluing them.
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So that's where I ended. I'll take the clamps off tomorrow. They'll be ready for turning on the lathe.

This project will be the first time I've used a lathe since high school. Been watching a lot of you tube and reading up. Didn't have a lathe plate or scraper chisel so I contacted ShopSmith west (aka SDSSmith) and took a ride up to his little piece of Heaven in the high country. He sold me a lathe plate, still in the ShopSmith box, but I had to put the chisel on the loaner program since he seemed a little fond of it. It been a couple weeks now so I figured I'd better show him I'm starting the project else Bubba may show up at my door. I'm workin' on it Rob.