mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[shipwright]

JPG, I won't let Mike take all the flak for this setup.

I think he may be referring to photos like these that he has seen somewhere.

[ATTACH]11072[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]11073[/ATTACH]

This is Garry oak with a knot. The method works. And as I have said before, I think that this is a safer way for a beginner to be doing this type of turning. I won't be arguing this with anyone, It's just my humble opinion. The second photo is "off the chisel", no tear outs no catches no drama. Just boring easy turning and just a little sanding left to do.

Paul M

[JPG]

JPG, I won't let Mike take all the flak for this setup.

I think he may be referring to photos like these that he has seen somewhere.

[ATTACH]11072[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]11073[/ATTACH]

This is Garry oak with a knot. The method works. And as I have said before, I think that this is a safer way for a beginner to be doing this type of turning. I won't be arguing this with anyone, It's just my humble opinion. The second photo is "off the chisel", no tear outs no catches no drama. Just boring easy turning and just a little sanding left to do.

Paul M

Thanks Paul! I would have been an unsuccessful 'devil's advocate had you not come to Mike's aid! I hope there are other folks with different input as well.

I can imagine what that knot would do at a shallower angle.

I gotta think oak be less likely to act like the poplar though!

P.S. I have not a clue what 'garry' oak is! ???

[dusty]

garry oak is "Oregon White Oak" by another name.

Google it.

[JPG]

garry oak is "Oregon White Oak" by another name.

Google it.

OH! It is 'Quercus Garryana'. So sorry I didn't recognize its more profane name!:D


Glad the more common name uses a portion of its second name rather than it's first! It would have been more relevant(maybe). Those pix look like there is no such thing as straight of any significant length.

[shipwright]

We Canadians seem to have more of a thing going on with the taxonomical names of trees. Not only Garry Oak, but we also refer to the genus Arbutus as, are you ready, "Arbutus" the American name "Madrone" apparently comes from Spanish and means loosely "Strawberry Tree". I guess then since our second language link is French, maybe we should be calling it "Arbrefraise".

Yes, I think that Mike's much softer wood is a contributing factor to his real problem, no edge. I'm also not a big fan of that strange scraper if it actually requires the rest to be that far away.

Paul M

[mickyd]

Gentlemen….thanks for the observations and comments. Truly appreciated. I’ve absorbed all the precautionary concerns and suggestions.

Last night, I contacted a past President of the San Diego Woodturners, Don Owens, who now serves along with MANY others as woodturning ‘mentors’. Real nice guy. He’s rubs elbows with some pretty well known professional turners like Mike Mahoney, Dale Nish, and the current president, Oskcar Kerskia. Talked generally about the benefits of membership along with the route to take as a beginner woodturner. He mentioned that each of the 15 designated mentorsare gurus in particular areas and are more than happy to have you over their place for hands on sessions using their equipment and even their wood!! Excellent way to go for the $25 annual chapter membership along with the required $48 membership in the American Association of Woodturners. I’m going to do it.

Back to the shop stool seat, Don explained that there are just about as many ‘correct’ ways to tackle this project as there are woodworkers. Each are passionate that they have the best method to use. I told him that I was using the scraper. He said that based on his experience, that would not be his tool of choice but that I could get very acceptable results using it. He said the biggest obstacle I’m facing is working with a ‘soft’ hardwood (poplar). He agreed that using a scraper required the tool to contact just below the centerline and that the tool needs to be held with the handle UP. He felt 30° was too high unless the burr on the top of the chisel was perfect. He said I didn’t have the experience to make that judgment. He said to make sure I have a top surface burr and to drop the handle down to about 10-20° up from horizontal. Also said that the problem area will be making the radius at the edge. He was pretty sure I would get tear out there with this kind of wood and suggested using a gouge for that section.

So, that's the plan for now.

Oh, and p.s........he would have used a gouge for this project

[JPG]

Gentlemen….thanks for the observations and comments. Truly appreciated. I’ve absorbed all the precautionary concerns and suggestions.

Last night, I contacted a past President of the San Diego Woodturners, Don Owens, who now serves along with MANY others as woodturning ‘mentors’. Real nice guy. He’s rubs elbows with some pretty well known professional turners like Mike Mahoney, Dale Nish, and the current president, Oskcar Kerskia. Talked generally about the benefits of membership along with the route to take as a beginner woodturner. He mentioned that each of the 15 designated mentorsare gurus in particular areas and are more than happy to have you over their place for hands on sessions using their equipment and even their wood!! Excellent way to go for the $25 annual chapter membership along with the required $48 membership in the American Association of Woodturners. I’m going to do it.

Back to the shop stool seat, Don explained that there are just about as many ‘correct’ ways to tackle this project as there are woodworkers. Each are passionate that they have the best method to use. I told him that I was using the scraper. He said that based on his experience, that would not be his tool of choice but that I could get very acceptable results using it. He said the biggest obstacle I’m facing is working with a ‘soft’ hardwood (poplar). He agreed that using a scraper required the tool to contact just below the centerline and that the tool needs to be held with the handle UP. He felt 30° was too high unless the burr on the top of the chisel was perfect. He said I didn’t have the experience to make that judgment. He said to make sure I have a top surface burr and to drop the handle down to about 10-20° up from horizontal. Also said that the problem area will be making the radius at the edge. He was pretty sure I would get tear out there with this kind of wood and suggested using a gouge for that section.

So, that's the plan for now.

Oh, and p.s........he would have used a gouge for this project

Rob's chisel ain't got no burr!;)

[mickyd]

The problem with all the tear out and chatter I was getting appeared to be due to the scrapers sharpness, bevel angle, and shape. The front face of the scraper (relief bevel) was 85˚, dull, and square. Researching this sharpening article on the San Diego Woodturners website indicated that a scraper should be about at 70˚ - 80˚. So I took the liberty on this 'borrowed' chisel to put the edge at 75˚ (so do I own it yet Rob??:D ). In addition, I put a slight curve to the face when viewed from the top as recommended by one of their mentors I spoke with this week. (how about now Rob??:D ). Here's what it now looks like.
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[ATTACH]11121[/ATTACH]
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I was able to develop that slight burr in the top surface that they talk about but it wasn't a pronounced as I thought it would be. My fingernail would catch on it as I ran it across but I couldn't really see it. I also never got that "fireball" appearance on the edge as I ground it which as I understand comes from a nice burr when it forms. Also, a video I had seen said that when a good burr forms, the sparks will wrap around the entire grinding wheel circumference. Didn't get that either. Who knows!! Not enough experience yet. I DO know however that the scraper cut MUCH better than before. Insignificant tearout and absolutely no chatter. Used the same slowest speed setting on the Mark 5.

Shipwright reminded me that I had better put the leg hole counterbores on the backside before I completed the doomed seat top. Duh...good thing he reminded me. Used the ER10 on the speed changed on the slowest setting and a 1" forstner bit with the table set a 17˚ to bore the three holes, 120˚ apart.
.
.
[ATTACH]11122[/ATTACH]
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.
Once that was completed, I remounted the stock on the faceplate and worked on the face. Here's how it looked with the newly sharpened and profiled scraper. I experimented with different angles of attack and felt that it was best with the handle up at about 20˚, cutting just below the centerline.
.
.
[ATTACH]11123[/ATTACH]
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.
I continued on until I got the mushroom shaped domed profile I was looking for, then I used my angle grinder and progressively sanded from 60 up through the range to 400 grit.
.
.
[ATTACH]11124[/ATTACH]
.
.
Got the poplar to the point of shining!!! Real happy with how it came out. I think the grain is going to look real nice when I get some color on it.
.
.
[ATTACH]11125[/ATTACH]
.
.
Oh, and p.s., I was able to easily scrape around the edge radius without getting any tearout. That was an area that I was told could have been a concern when using the scraper.

[JPG]

The problem with all the tear out and chatter I was getting appeared to be due to the scrapers sharpness, bevel angle, and shape. The front face of the scraper (relief bevel) was 85&#730]this sharpening article[/URL] on the San Diego Woodturners website indicated that a scraper should be about at 70˚ - 80˚. So I took the liberty on this 'borrowed' chisel to put the edge at 75˚ (so do I own it yet Rob??:D ). In addition, I put a slight curve to the face when viewed from the top as recommended by one of their mentors I spoke with this week. (how about now Rob??:D ). Here's what it now looks like.
.
.
[ATTACH]11121[/ATTACH]
.
.
I was able to develop that slight burr in the top surface that they talk about but it wasn't a pronounced as I thought it would be. My fingernail would catch on it as I ran it across but I couldn't really see it. I also never got that "fireball" appearance on the edge as I ground it which as I understand comes from a nice burr when it forms. Also, a video I had seen said that when a good burr forms, the sparks will wrap around the entire grinding wheel circumference. Didn't get that either. Who knows!! Not enough experience yet. I DO know however that the scraper cut MUCH better than before. Insignificant tearout and absolutely no chatter. Used the same slowest speed setting on the Mark 5.

Shipwright reminded me that I had better put the leg hole counterbores on the backside before I completed the doomed seat top. Duh...good thing he reminded me. Used the ER10 on the speed changed on the slowest setting and a 1" forstner bit with the table set a 17˚ to bore the three holes, 120˚ apart.
.
.
[ATTACH]11122[/ATTACH]
.
.
Once that was completed, I remounted the stock on the faceplate and worked on the face. Here's how it looked with the newly sharpened and profiled scraper. I experimented with different angles of attack and felt that it was best with the handle up at about 20˚, cutting just below the centerline.
.
.
[ATTACH]11123[/ATTACH]
.
.
I continued on until I got the mushroom shaped domed profile I was looking for, then I used my angle grinder and progressively sanded from 60 up through the range to 400 grit.
.
.
[ATTACH]11124[/ATTACH]
.
.
Got the poplar to the point of shining!!! Real happy with how it came out. I think the grain is going to look real nice when I get some color on it.
.
.
[ATTACH]11125[/ATTACH]
.
.
Oh, and p.s., I was able to easily scrape around the edge radius without getting any tearout. That was an area the I was told could have been a concern when using the scraper.

Where's the 'other' one?:D

Hey that really really looks mucho gooder! Glad ya got some good advice. Speaking of which, next time Rob 'offers' to 'lend' you something, look closely, it may be a trojan horsie!:rolleyes:

[mickyd]

Where's the 'other' one?:D

.........

Funny you asked! Before I started sanding, I put on my cheapo white dust mask. I wasn't using any dust collection. Why? I don't know. I bought a ShopSmith DC3300 a month or so ago but haven't even used it yet. Don't have any accessories to attach it to my stuff. Anyway, about halfway through sanding, I started tasting dust. If you taste it, your inhaling it. I figured I only had a bit more to go so I continued. Then, my eyes started bugging me (contact wearer) and when I looked up across the room, it looked foggy. Blinked a few times thinking my contacts were crudded up but realized the entire room was full of airborn dust, REALLY bad. I was right at the end of sanding so I stopped and left the room. When back 30 minutes later and air was no longer foggy but dust had covering everything!!! So that's why I didn't tackle the 2nd one last night.

I now know that I need to use my dust collector AND I need to use a better mask, especially with this type of sanding. My respirator is old and the cartridges are shot (rusty) so I am going to buy a new 3M brand I saw on the Woodwhisperer. It uses both cartridges or just dust filters.

Off to Amazon I go.