3" Caster Upgrade - My Review

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:44 pm

[quote="dusty"]Paul: why do the old instructions not work? To use the old lift assist on a Mark 7 you need to purchase the stronger plunger. Everything else, with one minor exception, is the same. The new plunger utilizes a quick disconnect type connector]

The quick disconnect is accomplished with the bottom connector. One needs to be very careful to install the quick disconnect per instructions. I know, I did it backwards the first try. Yeah I know I am supposed to read the directions. Jim

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:49 pm

fjimp wrote:My dual tilt came with new instructions for dealing with the lift assist. While installing the dual tilt I moved the brackets away from the ends of tubes. Then moved them back and tightened. All works well. One note my son objected to the brackets potentially interfering with the new lock nut. I pointed out to him that the new locking nut would span the bracket and still lock in place without hitting. Try it it works. Jim

A pix would be 'illustrative'!;)

'Span' mean the threads are longer than the bracket when the knob is tightened?

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:58 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]A pix would be 'illustrative'!]

Okay you wanted a picture. I am assuming you desire seeing the position of the lock nut as it relates to the framework of the lift assist. This picture shows that. Please note that the nut is extended over the frame and that the lift assist frame fits against the double lift base. Jim

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:08 pm

fjimp wrote:Okay you wanted a picture. I am assuming you desire seeing the position of the lock nut as it relates to the framework of the lift assist. This picture shows that. Please note that the nut is extended over the frame and that the lift assist frame fits against the double lift base. Jim

Thank You! Now I unnerstan!

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed Jul 18, 2012 1:44 am

fjimp wrote:Okay you wanted a picture. I am assuming you desire seeing the position of the lock nut as it relates to the framework of the lift assist. This picture shows that. Please note that the nut is extended over the frame and that the lift assist frame fits against the double lift base. Jim

Your picture would have been great, what I was trying to do was have the horizontal bar in front of the knob. The Shopsmith new instructions produce exactly what you have in the picture.

I have a very small gap on one side and none on the other. I may try to adjust it tomorrow to make the gap go away, right now it works perfectly though.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:10 am

paulmcohen wrote:Your picture would have been great, what I was trying to do was have the horizontal bar in front of the knob. The Shopsmith new instructions produce exactly what you have in the picture.

I have a very small gap on one side and none on the other. I may try to adjust it tomorrow to make the gap go away, right now it works perfectly though.

This is good news. It is good to hear that you are back to "sawdust mode".

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:40 am

paulmcohen wrote:Your picture would have been great, what I was trying to do was have the horizontal bar in front of the knob. The Shopsmith new instructions produce exactly what you have in the picture.

I have a very small gap on one side and none on the other. I may try to adjust it tomorrow to make the gap go away, right now it works perfectly though.

Paul, I have a similar gap on one of mine. After many attempts to minimize it I gave up and simply use it. I am pleased the picture helps. Jim

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:17 pm

fjimp wrote:Paul, I have a similar gap on one of mine. After many attempts to minimize it I gave up and simply use it. I am pleased the picture helps. Jim

Are y'all referring to a gap between the lift mounting bar(in 'the' pix) and the casting? If the spt mount is perpendicular to the way tubes, I would 'ignore' it.

IIUIC the bar merely prevents the tube clamp(s) from rotating on the tube(s).

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 12:44 am

The picture is of my accessory shelf that no longer fits after the double-tilt upgrade (it is screwed in on the left side). It looks like the legs are further appart then they were before, this also allows more clearance for the casters so no need for the washers.
[ATTACH]18043[/ATTACH]
Now I just need to decide if I want to redrill the shelf or the legs.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:13 am

paulmcohen wrote:The picture is of my accessory shelf that no longer fits after the double-tilt upgrade (it is screwed in on the left side). It looks like the legs are further appart then they were before, this also allows more clearance for the casters so no need for the washers.
[ATTACH]18043[/ATTACH]
Now I just need to decide if I want to redrill the shelf or the legs.

Question is, the distance the tubes are inserted into the castings.

I do not understand how increasing the leg c-c distance affects the caster height.

How far do the 'holes' miss?

I would look for assembly alterations before drilling any new holes.

Ed - Have you encountered this? Never mind - ya gots them red things under the bench tubes!

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3" Caster Upgrade - My Review

Another hint to the caster mystery