Shopsmith Forums

Here's a picture as promised.

I had to crop the photo and resize in order to upload. Note the $1 conduit clamps. For anyone that is interested, this mod only cost $4 plus tax. When I return the SS to horizontal, I slide the control wheel and the bar with worm gears back into the carriage and everything operates normally.

Nice!!!

I remember hearing Nick Engler say this SS was just a big jig - here's another example! Well done

Thanks guys! It took a little while, but together, we have come up with a simple solution that doesn't break the bank.

So, just for prosperity sake, I measured the angle of the table vs. the arbor. It seems that there is only 1/100 degree difference to the table, meaning that the angle either measures 89.99 or 90.01 degrees (digital angle gauge). I haven't tried seeing if my angle gauge truly measures 90 on my reliable square I've been using for the past 25+ years.

I'm sure I could get this closer to 90 degrees by fiddling with the carriage lock down and/or the motor lock down on the tubes, but it is close enough for my purposes.

Here's the first project on the SS 510 table router. This is a stave snare drum that features a 45 degree bearing edge. Obviously, I have a little more sanding to do on the inside since my other router jig left some tool marks. Like I mentioned before, I don't use a table router often, but when I do, it is nice to have the smooth torque behind the speed, especially with hardwoods.

Here's what I did to mine so I can swap the table from my old Mark 7 and the newer Mark 5...But you'll need a lathe or a source for threaded tube

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... nc#p216017

Finally got a picture outside of the snare I made.

Very nice!!

wow!

So, I have had a revelation as I was converting the SS to a router table this last time. When you tilt the tubes to the left, the end piece (that locks into the mechanism when horizontal) is held on with two allen set screws that are the standard size as the rest of the SS attachments. By backing out these two screws, the end piece comes off easy and then allows the table to be easily flipped. With the carriage flipped, the tube lock and height adjustment are on the other side, but it means that my original conversion can be accomplished at no cost! This also elliminates the need to remove the rod in the table or the tube clamps. It is simple, easy and can be accomplished by anyone.

Note: If you are not strong or tall enough to slide the carriage or the table off of the tubes and back on 180 degrees, you can always lift the tubes and put a block under the tubes to do the conversion, the same way you would if you were sliding the headstock off.