Switch

W3DRM · Post by **W3DRM** » Sun May 10, 2009 1:19 am

dusty wrote:OKAY, I give up. There must not be anyone making a rocker switch like the one used in the Mark V. I have spent the better part of an afternoon trying to locate one. I find a lot of switches that would (might) work without any major modifications but I can not find a supplier of the switch with a removable safety key.

Knowing that it exists, one should be able to find it online but I can not.

If anyone has one that has a part number on it, I sure would appreciate it. The part number and the manufacturer would be great. I really don't want to pull one out of my machines. The last time I did that I broke the retaining clips off and the switch is in place now thanks to a generous supply of silicone sealer.

I have the DigiKey hard copy catalog. It's huge and over 2600 pages of all kinds of electronics gear including many pages of power switches but none of them look like what the SS Mark V uses. I am going to send an email to SS and ask them what the specs are for the switch they are using. Probably won't get an answer but it's worth a shot anyway.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun May 10, 2009 6:20 am

drmcroberts wrote:I have the DigiKey hard copy catalog. It's huge and over 2600 pages of all kinds of electronics gear including many pages of power switches but none of them look like what the SS Mark V uses. I am going to send an email to SS and ask them what the specs are for the switch they are using. Probably won't get an answer but it's worth a shot anyway.

Other than the fact that you want a switch rated at 20 amps, the only specifications that are critical are the physical dimensions and that you want .25" connection tabs.

The dimensions you can get by measuring the failed unit. The nominal dimensions of the one I have are .83"x1.44".

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun May 10, 2009 11:37 am

dusty wrote:Other than the fact that you want a switch rated at 20 amps, the only specifications that are critical are the physical dimensions and that you want .25" connection tabs.

The dimensions you can get by measuring the failed unit. The nominal dimensions of the one I have are .83"x1.44".

Add Mounting METHOD to this list(implied in dimensions but not specifically).

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Sun May 10, 2009 6:10 pm

An old posting from Ron Roberts on http://www.ssug.org suggests the following may work:
http://www.commercialcontrols.eaton.com ... pecial.pdf

"
Type C Headstock Switches Posted at 2008/04/01 07:37 Karma: 7
Awhile back during a "scouting" trip to my local Ace Hardware I noticed in the electrical department their switch assortment and there on one of the drawers was an image of a switch that bore a very strong resemblance to the one in the type C headstock. So I open the drawer and look at the switch first hand and I think it's virtually identical. So I buy one with the understanding if it doesn't fit I can return it.

It replaces perfectly in the type C headstock casting the factory switch. The only difference is that the few factory switches I have are DPST (double pole single throw) and the one's at Ace are SPST (single pole single throw).

I asked the Ace guys if they could check with their jobber to see if the switch is available from their jobber in DPST. I learned this morning that it is not. But so far I haven't heard from anyone a logical reason to switch the neutral side and everyone I've talked to (including some electricians and motor guys) say it's perfectly fine to switch only the hot side. In fact according to some knowledgeable people Shopsmith is currently using an SPST version of this switch. I only know that the one I recently ordered from them, part #522384, is a DPST.

The switches at my local Ace are supplied by Servalite and are part #8166K23. They are SPST and rated for 20amps and 220V (I still don't undertand the 220V with only two terminals). They sell for $13.99. The removable safety key fits perfectly in the Shopsmith switch and vice versa.

I will attempt to post a photo this weekend of the two switches. "

W3DRM · Post by **W3DRM** » Sun May 10, 2009 11:31 pm

Boy, finding a suitable substitute or like switch is becoming a major chore! I've spent most of the afternoon surfing the web looking for switches that may work. Based on some references in this forum, I did find some specifications for a switch that looks very much like the one SS is or has been using in their equipment. It is made by Eaton and has a part number of 8166K21. The link to the Eaton site was listed in a previous post but here it is for those who want it again: (http://www.commercialcontrols.eaton.com/VCBU/catalog/commcatl.pdx/Special.pdf). Look on pages 4.18 & 4.19 for the 8166K21 (DPST) or 8166K23 (SPST) switches.

A catalog reference on the Tyco Electronics website (http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?M=BYPN&C=1&PN=1541150-2&LG=1&I=13) gives a very detailed description and engineering drawings of the Eaton 8166K21 DPST 20A switch. However, Tyco indicates that particular part number (and the 8166K23) as being "OBSOLETE" and no longer available. So, that may what the problem SS is having - if it isn't being manufactured any longer.

I've also found several places that say they have the item in stock but you have to submit an RFQ which requires either a business name and contact information and/or some subscription for their quoting services.

Gads, I never thought it would be so difficult to simply find a part... If anyone has any better ideas please let me know.

One last comment about the 8166K21 switch specs. I noticed in the Tyco engineering drawings that they list the switch as follows: "20A 125-277VAC, 2 HP 250VAC, 1HP 125VAC, DPST" (or SPST depending on model). If SS is using this particular switch, and the fact that the SS states on their website that the motor "Develops over 2 HP" I wonder if that may be what is leading to switch failure if the switch is only rated for 1HP @ 125VAC. Just a thought on the subject...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 11, 2009 12:58 am

"developed HP" is imaginary(only seen by marketing types). It has nothing to do with switch rating. A case can be made that this 'developed HP' actually exists, but it is temporary(not available to do anything on a sustained basis).

Flywheels do help, but they do not increase HP, they help get over short term load variations.

The switch rating seems inadequate(1HP/125V).

bucksaw · Post by **bucksaw** » Mon May 11, 2009 2:39 am

You might be able to get a new Shopsmith switch from Bill Mayo or from Battles Hardware in Whittier, Ca. Battles has been selling and repairing Shopsmiths since the 50's. Give them a call (562-698-3714) and they will be glad to ship parts if they have them in stock.

woodburner · Post by **woodburner** » Wed May 20, 2009 6:57 pm

Wow, if anyone is parting out a type C headstock and selling the parts on ebay, they could get some money for that little ol' switch.

Anyone try Radio Shack yet?

bucksaw · Post by **bucksaw** » Wed May 20, 2009 8:08 pm

DelCity.net may be a possible source. I most of my switches and terminal connectors there.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed May 20, 2009 8:24 pm

bucksaw wrote:DelCity.net may be a possible source. I most of my switches and terminal connectors there.

If it is just a switch that you "need" and you are not concerned about matching the original switch in question and you do not "need" the removanle key feature - this switch will fit in the hole (same size as the Tyco switch that went out of production 8166K21) and is DPST.

http://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/7700013.pdf

PS The switches in my power station appear to be similar and were manufactured by Lucerne.