Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:It is just good to be up and around. I'm going to attempt to sneak into the shop and make a couple voltage and resistance measurements. Success will depend on how cranky the guard at the door is. If she hears that Mark V start up - I'm dead meat.

1) Wait until she goes out!

2) NO LIFTING!!!!!

3) NO BENDING OVER/STOOPING!!!!

4) Savor the pleasure, but DO BE CAUTIOUS!!!!


Glad to hear not as serious as anticipated. Go slow and Get Well SOON!

heathicus wrote:My question will probably reveal the fact, if it wasn't obvious already, that I'm not a "real" woodworker. But what are those type of rules good for? How are they best used? They've always just seemed like a big nuisance to me, but I know they must be very useful for something.

One of their best 'features' is the absence of the 'true zero' hook. They also are nice it you have to measure something out of reach.(partially unfold one joint and use the leg as a 'handle'.

With the extension, I prefer it for inside measurements.

If you have not ever used one, they will drive you bonkers(as the retracting steel kind does at other times). That pocket(on the right leg of your 'carpenter's' jeans) with the tapered top edge is not for a cell phone, but is (originally) intended to be a holder for one of these.

Recommendation: Do not hold it by anything other than the as yet unfolded portions(unless fully extended). They can be broken easily.

So are they more for "carpentry" work than "woodworking" work?

heathicus wrote:So are they more for "carpentry" work than "woodworking" work?

Agreed! However, I have one made by "Ridgid" when they were only in the plumbing tool business. Gee I wonder who their customers were then! The point is they pre-date the steel roll up kind and were then the only(?) available collapsible rule.

A framing carpenters principle tool(other than a hammer) is the framing square and a saw(like the ones hanging on dusty's wall).

Finish carpenters need other tools.

I believe someday the hammer may become obsolete(for driving nails).

How many of you know how to use/read ALL the info on a framing square? It is used for other than rafters etc.

JPG40504 wrote:How many of you know how to use/read ALL the info on a framing square? It is used for other than rafters etc.

If you're referring to what I know as a "speed square," then I don't.



But, I did keep the booklet that came with it in a safe place to read and reference when necessary. So far, I haven't found it necessary. Although I imagine if I did read the booklet and knew how to use/read all of the info on it, I'd use it for more than just drawing a line on a board that is perpendicular to the edge.

JPG40504 wrote:Agreed! However, I have one .......

How many of you know how to use/read ALL the info on a framing square? It is used for other than rafters etc.

I'll take a sketch / photo that shows the proper use of the section next to "HIP-VAL, TOP CUTS, COMMON". I googled it this past weekend but there was nothing that caught my eye. I gathered its for cutouts based on roof slope but that's all I gleaned. Figured I'd never use it so I researched no further. I understand all the other parts, including the 1/4" scribe line section and "the diamond".

Was great over the weekend, Glad to hear that it went well Dusty, Was 60-70 here yesterday, Garage open SS on the carport cleaned and hooked to the DC and making Sawdust all day long. Working on a raised bed project for the back yard. Also resawing some Maple and Mimosa from the ice storm two years ago getting ready to make some pen and do some turning. At least the weather is holding out while I am looking for work and the SS is taking my mind off no paycheck.

heathicus wrote:If you're referring to what I know as a "speed square," then I don't.



But, I did keep the booklet that came with it in a safe place to read and reference when necessary. So far, I haven't found it necessary. Although I imagine if I did read the booklet and knew how to use/read all of the info on it, I'd use it for more than just drawing a line on a board that is perpendicular to the edge.

You gots the 'modern' version. What I was referring to is 16" long on one leg and 24" long other the other. The body(24" leg) is 2" wide and the tongur(16" leg) is 1 1/2" wide(1 5/8" on older versions). the different scales and layout aids are printed/embossed on either side of the the 'legs'. Mine is elsewhere at the moment or I would post a pix.





The inch scales start at both the common end of the 'legs' on the outside and the same at the inside corner of the 'legs'.

In addition to the rafter scales for end cuts for common rafters and jack rafters are the side cut for jack rafters and the end cuts for various pitches and and spans are layout aids for 'octagon' cuts, diagonal scale.

I need help with crown molding. I am using an angle finder and jig. My problem is the angles are still not lining up. I have split the differance (ie 88 degrees is 44 degrees each). I was wondering if I could use regular boards to cut the angle? Then once it is right transfer it to the molding? I know it would not have the profile as the crown, but atleast it will met in the corners.