Page 8 of 14

Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:16 pm
by keakap
JPG40504 wrote:...
However, lack of doing so frequently requires short on cycling with frantic speed dial cranking to get the speed down for using the bandsaw or jigsaw after previous saw use.:o:(
That's why I always turned my speed down to Slow everytime. And that's cost me a few bucks at NAPA auto parts, now with the new machine. That SS speed dial of mine was very hard to turn most of its life, and turning it was good exercise for my thumb & index finger. But in just a couply months without it my fingers weakened so I can't get my truck's wheels off anymore. Had to go replace that lug wrench I lost a few years ago...

Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:08 pm
by easterngray
I used to leave my headstock at current speed when powering down... until one day I hooked up the bandsaw and fired it up at the saw setting by accident. It threw my urethane band saw tires before I realized what I had done. I always dial down now. Alec

Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 9:29 pm
by walthy
JPG40504 wrote:DITTO! I have never needed to 'dial down' either. But then I be using a 230v motor.

I would find the need to do so annoying.

However, lack of doing so frequently requires short on cycling with frantic speed dial cranking to get the speed down for using the bandsaw or jigsaw after previous saw use.:o:(
First post to this forum. Just read through this thread. I just found out about the Power Pro upgrade and am already trying to figure out a way to afford it.

My question is about the automatic 120 vs 240 vac detection in the Power Pro. The info I read said it has the ability to detect the input voltage. Now I realize that it will require a different plug. Can that be accomplished easily? Can I just make an adapter to allow me to use either voltage or is there something internally that I would have to rewire?

I'm just now putting together my new shop and I have wired it for 120, and 240 is available. I have used 12-3 ga/20 amp wiring so I could run the Shopsmith on a separate circuit from the shop vacuum, for instance. It would also be easy to add a subpanel and increase the wire size and amps without too much trouble if I need more than two 120v circuits. I too have blown a few breakers while using these tools in my driveway with an extension cord. I was thinking I wanted to switch to 240 to get more power/better torque, but with the Power Pro I should be able to use either (the 240 would provide more HP, I believe). this would be great so i can use it at 240v in my new shop and 120v elsewhere, perhaps a job site.

Has anyone compared the performance at the different voltages yet?

Thanks!

Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 10:00 pm
by charlese
walthy wrote:......
My question is about the automatic 120 vs 240 vac detection in the Power Pro. The info I read said it has the ability to detect the input voltage. Now I realize that it will require a different plug. Can that be accomplished easily? Can I just make an adapter to allow me to use either voltage or is there something internally that I would have to rewire?

I'm just now putting together my new shop and I have wired it for 120, and 240 is available. I have used 12-3 ga/20 amp wiring so I could run the Shopsmith on a separate circuit from the shop vacuum, for instance. It would also be easy to add a subpanel and increase the wire size and amps without too much trouble if I need more than two 120v circuits. I too have blown a few breakers while using these tools in my driveway with an extension cord. I was thinking I wanted to switch to 240 to get more power/better torque, but with the Power Pro I should be able to use either (the 240 would provide more HP, I believe). this would be great so i can use it at 240v in my new shop and 120v elsewhere, perhaps a job site.

Has anyone compared the performance at the different voltages yet?

Thanks!

I suppose you could make an adapter that will allow you to use either 120V or 220V. The PowerPro unit will not need any changes to operate on either voltage.

As you know, 220 has 120+ on one plug blade and 120- on the other the third round blade is neutral. The 120 plug/receptacle has 120+ on one blade, neutral on the other and ground on the round blade. There is an adapter I use when plugging in my motorhome to a 20 amp 120V outlet that will allow me to plug a 30 amp three prong plug into the adapter. That adapter is available at RV supply stores and would probably work for your purpose. all you would need is a 220V plug that would fit the adapter. Of course your shop outlet must also fit this plug.

The 12-3 wiring you have will work!

Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 10:58 pm
by JPG
I believe the Power pro comes with a 120 linecord. All that is required to 'adapt' it to 230v is an adapter with a 120v receptacle and a 230v plug(that matches the 230v receptacle that you install in your shop). I would look for a 230V 15A receptacle. You do not need in excess of 20A branch circuits. It is acceptable to install a 15A receptacle on a 20A branch circuit(the reverse is not acceptable). You could use an existing 120V 3wire dedicated branch wiring by wiring the white wire at the breaker panel to the second leg of a 230V 20A breaker. You should/must indicate that white conductor is no longer a neutral by either painting the wire at both ends or taping it to cover the white color.

An adapter is preferable in your case since you want to be able to run either voltage. The power pro does NOT need 20A @ 115V. That suggested capability was only due to the high startup current of the former motor. The power pro automatically ramps up so as to minimize the startup current surge.

I am assuming you did the wiring yourself. That being so, you should have no problems with these suggestions.

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:12 pm
by easterngray
My PowerPro shipped today! "Super Goldie" is soon to be a reality! First project will be two large raised panel closet doors. I'm almost done with the upstairs... Alec

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:02 pm
by charlese
My PowerPro will be returned to Shopsmith for repair. All shipping and repair under warranty! The Warranty guarantees of SS are outstanding and so is the customer service. They will send me a loner headstock and I will send mine to them in the same box.

My PowerPro runs exceedingly well in all configurations except bandsawing. Here there is a banging noise and strong vibrations coming from the headstock. I've tried the bandsaw with the 1/4", 1/8" and 5/8" blades. If there is the slightest binding of the blade, those banging and vibrations occur. Wes at SS has tried to figure a computer fix twice to no avail. There is just something wrong with this particular unit. Having exhausted these computer fixes, it is time to send the unit back for them to fix.

I sincerely hope they find something that will allow them to look for a similar problem with all other units. I'm really glad this unique bad feature with bandsawing happened to me! I can truly understand Shopsmith's frustration is fixing this. Wes even had Jim McMann working on a fix for my problem. They couldn't replicate my headstock's condition. They need to have their hands on this particular unit.

Would I recommend buying a PowerPro? You bet!!! I bought the DIY version. Even if they find that I did something wrong in installing the unit they will fix it and perhaps they can tell other how to avoid that issue. Once again - the company's warranty and customer service is outstanding!!!

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:31 pm
by beeg
Are they shipping you a PowerPro loaner?

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:56 pm
by charlese
No, they don't have any PowerPro loaners. Loaner will be mechanical. That's OK with me. Just get the PP fixed. I'm pretty sure it (PP) will need new parts.

Just installed DIY PowerPro upgrade

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:20 pm
by RonKlein
I received my PowerPro upgrade on Saturday, watched the DVD and read the instructions over the weekend. I spent a couple of long half-days installing the upgrade. (I tend to work rather slowly and deliberately the first time I tackle a job like this one.) I had two minor problems.
1. The labels were missing from my kit. Quickly sent by SS service.

2. The countersink I received with my kit gave me fits until I figured out that the set screws holding the countersink to the pilot shaft were crap. The ends were smooth and flat, not a cup point, so the countersink was slipping on the pilot shaft. I suspect the screws were not hardened properly, because the heads were stripping out when I tried to tighten them. Fortunately, I had a couple of good set screws to use that worked just fine, and finished up the job without further trouble. I did report this to Shopsmith.

I hope to be able to put it through some of its paces this weekend, but so far, I am very pleased with the upgrade.