Shopsmith Forums

reible wrote:If you have happened to have read the rest of this thread you will know that I have been fixing up a shopsmith bandsaw, so to say tweaking it.

I managed to find enough money to get another "wood slicer" by not buying in to the new caster set offered by shopsmith. I have one of these blades for my other bandsaw and think very highly of it. Haven't had time to mount and use it on the shopsmith yet, saving it for a project.

I also got a cheaper blade for cutting up some MDF, 3/8 x 6. Interesting note on the back of that one. "Recoiling the blade after use is not recommended" I've also seen some net chatter about this on smaller length blades like the shopsmith uses. I can understand where this might be an issue but this is the first time I've seen it on a blade package.


I am embarrassed to say that I don't know. That warning may have been on the package of every blade I have used. I tend not to read the packaging. Man, I don't even read most instructions until something does not work as expected.

The information is a bit disconcerting because I have been recoiling blades for many years. Unfortunately, that warning does not say why. What harm is done by recoiling the blade.

If I don't recoil, how do I store the used blade?
Now if it is the case that they should not be recoiled storage is going to be an issue.

Has any one else seen this on a package?

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Ed

I am embarrassed to say that I don't know. That warning may have been on the package of every blade I have used. I tend not to read the packaging. Man, I don't even read most instructions until something does not work as expected.

The information is a bit disconcerting because I have been recoiling blades for many years. Unfortunately, that warning does not say why. What harm is done by recoiling the blade.

If I don't recoil, how do I store the used blade?

dusty wrote:I am embarrassed to say that I don't know. That warning may have been on the package of every blade I have used. I tend not to read the packaging. Man, I don't even read most instructions until something does not work as expected.

The information is a bit disconcerting because I have been recoiling blades for many years. Unfortunately, that warning does not say why. What harm is done by recoiling the blade.

If I don't recoil, how do I store the used blade?

'Me too' would have worked and saved us all time!:D

I would not worry about doing it with a ss blade since they guarantee the weld.

I can see where recoiling it could put stress on the weld.

Since it has been common practice in the past, I would continue recoiling.

Me thinks this is more protect one from one's self and the manufacturer from silly law suits since recoiling can be hazardous if not done correctly!


P.S. I prefer the one foot, one hand method.

From the reading I've done the recoiling problem comes on shorter blades, in short the worst thing you can do is over tension the blade, second is to leave the tension on and third is to recoil. I'd point you to references but when I took notes I didn't do it to share sooooooooo. Short blades given everything else being the same last a shorter amount of time due to tighter curve they have and being in the radius more of the time, I believe it is 60% less long.

It is interesting that when I got my other bandsaw, early 1970's one no no was to hang the blade on a hook or thin rod/dowel, a common practice at the time. They recommended something like a 4" radius or what I ended up doing, using two pegs.

This is how I store my older saws blades. The cover is from an old gas station prices display (a numbers of independent stations went away during the early 70's). [Funny note, I cut it so it would look like a "B" as in blade, my young son said I should have made it look more like the 8 it was, he was right. He turned out to be an artist and even knew better then me about that way back then.] Anyway that was one of the ways recommended back then.

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For now I'm OK, one blade on the saw, the other still wrapped. If I can scrape up more funds I'd like to get a few more yet this year, then I will have to deal with a storage solution.

Ed

Back on post #48 I showed adding a dust port to the cover of the shopsmith bandsaw.

A word of caution here. The port I added is an open port, and bits of cut offs along with the dust can and will be sucked up, if using a shopsmith like dust collector you could damage the fan in your dust collector from chunks of wood in the stream.

I don't know how likely this is to happen however knowing about it can help you decide if you want to worry about it.

Ed

I just finished ordering my last updates for the saw. Two timberwolf blades and a set if cool blocks for when I use the 1/8" blade.

Yea I still need a few more blades but my budget is shot for this past year. The good news is that my budget runs Dec to Dec.

If I get sometime I'd like to cut up a few of those deer that Nick came up with and perhaps a few flowers. Right now I have the three seats out of the van sitting right where those projects would require me to have space. That and a bottom part to a hoosier cabinet is blocking my way to the seats....

This was one of the few projects I finished this year!

Ed

I know a lot of guys have made the window/access hole modification to simplify loosening and tightening the blade. Has anyone thought to put a permanent "key" in the adjustment screw rather than always having to look for my hex wrench? Seems like a natural evolution but maybe I'm just up way past my bedtime.

fiatben wrote:I know a lot of guys have made the window/access hole modification to simplify loosening and tightening the blade. Has anyone thought to put a permanent "key" in the adjustment screw rather than always having to look for my hex wrench? Seems like a natural evolution but maybe I'm just up way past my bedtime.

I don't know if you are up past your bed time but you are up past mine..... what am I doing here???

Well since I am here, I guess one has to define permanent, it will have to come off or do something when you take the cover off. I guess you could notch the cover too.... Anyway I personally am happy with how it working now with the modifications I've made. I think I'm done except for adding more blades and maybe getting a new table insert to replace "used" one that is now looking a little to used.

As far as the hex wrenches I must have a dozen so they are everywhere. I have thought of mounting one on the back of the saw along with the larger size I need for the table split bolts (not sure why they are the size they are, being different is not good), then there is the 7/16 wrench for the blade guard.... Yep a little tool kit on the back would be good.

Ed

fiatben wrote:I know a lot of guys have made the window/access hole modification to simplify loosening and tightening the blade. Has anyone thought to put a permanent "key" in the adjustment screw rather than always having to look for my hex wrench? Seems like a natural evolution but maybe I'm just up way past my bedtime.

Thought of it yes. Done it no! Still need to 'see' setting. For now, I turn wrench 1 turn / 1/8 " (1/2" blade = 4 turns). Loosen the same amount, and occasionally check against 'scale'. No window either!!! Recalibrate when changing blade.

With the recent sale on the Carter Bandsaw Stabilizer Guide I couldn't help myself and got one. In fact the sale is still going on at this time if you are interested. Thread reference:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=10959

Direct link:

http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_080312.htm

It arrived a shot while ago but I didn't have the time to do anything with it until yesterday. (This is not a review and I have not had time to doing any testing on the shopsmith so don't look for one for a while or ever.)

I have this same guide for my "other" bandsaw and like it well enough to fork out the $ to add one to my shopsmith. (You may take that as I like it a lot.)

This what it looks like when you have it installed and ready to go.

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Keep in mind I have done an upgrade to the bearings and have ceramic blade guides installed so your shopsmith may not look like what is pictured but you should be able to follow along anyway.

To add this system you start by removing the blade. You will then remove the bearings and the guide block holder. The (blue) Carter guide then is mounted.

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This guide system is designed to be used with thin blades, here you see a timberwolf 1/8" blade getting ready to be installed. The guide/bearing needs to be back near the post to start with.

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The below the table adjustment is backing the blade guides out of the way as seen here.

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After the blade is tensioned you then need to align the bearing with the blade. A set screw allows the shaft to be moved for this alignment. Next the bearing is brought up to the blade and adjusted to force the blade slightly forward. I just do this by eye and feel.

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Just a small amount to add on the next post.

Ed

This next picture shows how close the bearing is to the work piece when adjusted correctly. This is also one of the reasons it works so well.

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Now I wish I had a project in mind to demo it....

Ed