Back at the shop move...

[robinson46176]

At 24'X40' with only two doors this shop has a "lot" of wall area. The shop I am (slowly) getting moved out of was bigger but had a lot of doors and 16' of picture windows along with some smaller windows. The reasoning behind the rail wall system I am installing (last post) is to put as much stuff as I can up on the walls. I just realized something else this morning that I can wall mount. I have my Delta compound miter saw currently mounted on one end of a Shopsmith with a set of extension table post. I can use it there or I can also easily clamp it in a B&D Workmate. I am going to remake the table for it to mount on a set of brackets to hang on the wall probably pretty close to where I will be standing at the workbench so I can just turn around and make a quick cut. It will need to have the mount so that it hooks on the 2 lower slat rails for good support since it is a bit heavy and will be cantilevered out from the wall. I can leave the Shopsmith mount intact so if I want it can just be lifted off of the wall and mount it back on the SS or the Workmate. I will also make a pair of brackets for the wall to support the ends of the material being cut. They will be easy to slide back and forth to where ever they are needed.
About the only change to the saw is that I don't use the little cloth bag for sawdust but always either use a DC or a shop-vac. It normally comes straight off of the back but I will need to mount an elbow on the outlet so it will clear the wall.

Current mounting, now it will be one less thing to be shuffling around all of the time.

[ATTACH]16233[/ATTACH]

I have several wooden shelf sets that will be hung from the wall rather than sit on the floor so I can sweep the floor right over to the wall with a push-broom. Hopefully everything will either be on wheels or up off of the floor high enough to sweep under.


.

[swampgator]

I have the same Delta mitre saw that I dearly love. Mine has one weakness. I often check the fence to ensure it is square. Normally, all adjustments (infrequent) are on the left side. I must not be tightening it enough. Will try some loctite next time. But, it is a really sweet saw.

[JPG]

It will be interesting to see how you adapt it to the wall mount. The upper strip mounting is a no-brainer, but getting the cantilevered weight transferred to the lower strip, that will be 'interesting'. I suggest a diagonal brace that will also clear the ss when mounted there.

[robinson46176]

It will be interesting to see how you adapt it to the wall mount. The upper strip mounting is a no-brainer, but getting the cantilevered weight transferred to the lower strip, that will be 'interesting'. I suggest a diagonal brace that will also clear the ss when mounted there.

Yes, a diagonal brace is the plan. It will be on both sides and just clear the back of the "bed" area. It will more hang from an upper cleat than be supported by the lower cleat. I'll have to putter with it to decide the exact height I want it. Even then It will be adjustable.


.

[robinson46176]

Finally got the compound miter saw wall mount made. It is pretty simple, I like simple. I think it will serve fine. I originally planned for the diagonals to reach out farther but had to move them back at the bottom to clear the big lock knob on the back when swung around to 45 degrees. As usual it was all assembled with Tite-bond and screws. You can see that it still has the SS post mounts attached.

[ATTACH]16260[/ATTACH]

One kind of cool thing about this wall system over French cleats is that since it does not wedge in tightly if you want to move something over you just put your hand on the side and slide it along.
You can still hang an item with a French cleat on these rails or hang something with these hanger sections on the back on a French cleat.

I also got a couple of small cabinets holding SS parts and accessories mounted.


.

[JPG]

Finally got the compound miter saw wall mount made. It is pretty simple, I like simple. I think it will serve fine. I originally planned for the diagonals to reach out farther but had to move them back at the bottom to clear the big lock knob on the back when swung around to 45 degrees. As usual it was all assembled with Tite-bond and screws. You can see that it still has the SS post mounts attached.

[ATTACH]16260[/ATTACH]

One kind of cool thing about this wall system over French cleats is that since it does not wedge in tightly if you want to move something over you just put your hand on the side and slide it along.
You can still hang an item with a French cleat on these rails or hang something with these hanger sections on the back on a French cleat.

I also got a couple of small cabinets holding SS parts and accessories mounted.


.

Well Done!





But that comes as no surprise!;)


P.S. I just noticed it sits on the cleats. What prevents it from sliding off?

[robinson46176]

[quote="JPG40504"]Well Done!





But that comes as no surprise!]



Those cleats are big hooks. My pictures don't show it too well. The second picture on this page shows the concept better but mine are a little different (simpler) than his. I saw no reason to make it as tight as he did for my needs. My wall part and tool bracket part are identical (just reversed). The 2 hooks over lap an inch.
My spacers are both 7/16" X 1.5" OSB and my "hooks" (face parts) are both 1/4" X2.5" OSB.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/shop/archive/2009/08/04/hyper-organize-your-shop.aspx


.

[bffulgham]

Those cleats are big hooks. My pictures don't show it too well. The second picture on this page shows the concept better but mine are a little different (simpler) than his. I saw no reason to make it as tight as he did for my needs. My wall part and tool bracket part are identical (just reversed). The 2 hooks over lap an inch.
My spacers are both 7/16" X 1.5" OSB and my "hooks" (face parts) are both 1/4" X2.5" OSB.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/shop/archive/2009/08/04/hyper-organize-your-shop.aspx .

I've used OSB for lots of different things....paneling, floors, decking, 'disposable' table tops (cutting, welding, jigs, etc.), but never in a 'structural' mode. By 'structural', I mean like for your rails and hooks where weight is more concentrated. I'm curious how the OSB is going to hold up being under a focused load over time.....especially the 1/4" stuff. I can see how it would be just fine supporting vertical weight as the weight is at a 90 degree angle to the orientation of the wood fibers. With something like your miter saw rack, the upper support will be exerting some pull horizontal to the rail and hook.

[robinson46176]

I can see how it would be just fine supporting vertical weight as the weight is at a 90 degree angle to the orientation of the wood fibers. With something like your miter saw rack, the upper support will be exerting some pull horizontal to the rail and hook.

I think this stuff will be just fine. Now some of the old "flake board" and earlier OSB would be a different story. This that I am using is pretty high resin content and pretty hard.
Some of the crap I bought at the local lumber yard a few years ago I would not use for this application. It was just awful. Flakey and the surface was rough and uneven. You could just lift whole flakes off of it.



.

[bffulgham]

I think this stuff will be just fine. Now some of the old "flake board" and earlier OSB would be a different story. This that I am using is pretty high resin content and pretty hard.
Some of the crap I bought at the local lumber yard a few years ago I would not use for this application. It was just awful. Flakey and the surface was rough and uneven. You could just lift whole flakes off of it.



.

I think you are probably correct. BTW....I forgot to add earlier...
GOOD JOB!;) I like the concept, application, and execution.