Shopsmith Forums

rbursek wrote:UPDATE, started the belt replacement, speed control was in the way of moving the drive shaft all the way back, so had to remove it, not in the instructions they sent, about needing to remove it. I called tech support and I was less then thrilled with there attitude.
Upper shaft/spindle bearings are "ruff" to say the least, that maybe why the Gilmer belt broke, at this moment cant get that shaft to move lateraly by using the spindle technique for removal. On to watch the rebuild vidio but his came out by using the spindle technique if I remember right. Any hints/tips would be appreciated.
Thanks,Bob

I find that I have to use am 24" long 1/2" rebar rod that I grounded the teeth (tips) off to remove the drive sleeves. I use a 2 pd hammer and have to pound quite hard some times to remove the drive sleeve. The inner bearing will sometimes come off the drive sleeve shaft so it has to be removed separately. I use a fine grit sandpaper to clean the bearing bores in the headstock. I recommend using ABEC3 rated bearings for the drive sleeve.

Not sure I understand needing to 'remove the speed control'. Yes the control sheave need be disconnected from it.

Detail, did you remove the outer bearing retaining ring in the upper shaft bore? If those are 'original' bearings, they will likely be very stubborn to move. IIWM, I would not consider trying to salvage the old bearings. That allows you to be more forceful in removing them. The thing to be concerned about is causing the headstock casting to fracture. Profuse amounts of penetrating oil that is allowed to soak into the casting/bearing outer race interface(both ends of both bearings) is prudent.

FWIW, this is better done with the motor and pan removed.

Did you get the idler shaft out ok? It goes in, not out.

Off to read the 'ss instructions' in case I have led you astray.

What about CS 'attitude' did you not like?

JPG40504 wrote:Not sure I understand needing to 'remove the speed control'. Yes the control sheave need be disconnected from it.

Detail, did you remove the outer bearing retaining ring in the upper shaft bore? If those are 'original' bearings, they will likely be very stubborn to move. IIWM, I would not consider trying to salvage the old bearings. That allows you to be more forceful in removing them. The thing to be concerned about is causing the headstock casting to fracture. Profuse amounts of penetrating oil that is allowed to soak into the casting/bearing outer race interface(both ends of both bearings) is prudent.

FWIW, this is better done with the motor and pan removed.

Did you get the idler shaft out ok? It goes in, not out.

Off to read the 'ss instructions' in case I have led you astray.

What about CS 'attitude' did you not like?

Do you really have to go there? I do believe that we already know.

I think her name was Linda, I dont have problems with woman, as long as they just dont show up at the table with an appetite, an empty plate and think some mediocore sex makes up the difference! She was not very definitive in her answers, " well I heard most people dont need to remove the speed changer" Just her whole demeanor. There was no way that shaft was going in/back any further to clear the area it sits in, the bushing did not even totally clear, and yes it was on high speed.
Any place to get the bearings cheaper for the upper spindle other then SS?
That wont happen till next month now. The Delta TS is looking good, rust removed, sanded and the base is repainted as of 6pm, tomorrow the saw body. Planer blades are back from the machinest, for the 6" rust bucket, start on that rust too tomorrow.
Bob

Yes the spring snap ring on the bearing is removed.

Do you really have to go there? I do believe that we already know.
Are you reffering to CS Tech Support??? First time I used them. Is that the norm????

BTW, when trying the spindle method I unwound my quill return spring, is that a huge thing to rewind? I need to pull that assembly anyway, lots of packed saw dust on the teeth in there.
Thanks, Bob

rbursek wrote:BTW, when trying the spindle method I unwound my quill return spring, is that a huge thing to rewind? I need to pull that assembly anyway, lots of packed saw dust on the teeth in there.
Thanks, Bob

Yes. Good Luck. That spring bites! I'd tell you to wear heavy gloves but I cannot preach what I do not practice. Just be prepared to bleed.

rbursek wrote:Yes the spring snap ring on the bearing is removed.

Do you really have to go there? I do believe that we already know.
Are you reffering to CS Tech Support??? First time I used them. Is that the norm????

The CS question was really intended for JPG and he knows why. However, you have already cleared that up. If Linda was the one to whom you spoke, I have no explanation. Linda is very knowledgeable and when she does not know she is quick to seek answers from the engineering staff. The ladies in Customer Service at Shopsmith are great.

Your negative experience is hard (no impossible) for me to understand.

Any tips other then it has fangs? Utube vidio?

It was not totally negitive, just a bit non decisive, except for pulling the speed changer will give me all the room I need.