Page 9 of 16

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 6:06 pm
by jsburger
ddub wrote:I can cut vinyl stencil. Depending on the size of the detail, sometimes the center of "o's" and "a's" don't stick very well though due to the low tack adhesive on the vinyl.

It would also take two stencils. One for the red, one for the white although the white could basically just be a circle done first so that would be easy.

I have heard that Shopsmith isn't too favorable of people reproducing their logo though?

Edit, as I see there is a black ring around the outside also.

Thanks ddub! There is someone here locally that has a large (3'X4') flat bed laser that will cut the stencil. To me the issue is finding a material that will snug down on the rough cast iron to create crisp lines.

If you look at the original the lines between the red and white are very crisp.

As for the black line around the outside, I thought at first it was because the logo was a decal. However, the rest of the logo appears to be paint. I do not know what the black circle is but look at 8 o'clock and you see the remnants of a white outer band that matches the black circle. Maybe it was some kind of primer although it doesn't show up any where else.

When I first uploaded the picture on Skip's group someone responded that it was a demo machine and it was only the fourth one he had seen with a painted logo. All the others had a metal logo plate like the one on the operators side.

As far as reproducing the SS logo, I doubt that in this case there would be a problem. I am certainly not going to worry about it.

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 3:57 am
by JPG
I am guessing(from the pix) that it was originally a stencil - very thin glue dissolved in water type that slid off its paper backing. I think the outer black part may be what was originally a clear boundary.

As for 'copying', I intend to do something similar with a MVII vintage logo.

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 1:15 pm
by jsburger
JPG wrote:I am guessing(from the pix) that it was originally a stencil - very thin glue dissolved in water type that slid off its paper backing. I think the outer black part may be what was originally a clear boundary.

As for 'copying', I intend to do something similar with a MVII vintage logo.
Please reread my previous post. I too originally thought it was a decal and the black line was the clear backing. But as I said above if you look at 8 o'clock on the outer edge of the circle there is white the same width as the black. Also in that same area you can see the red worn off and the white showing through. That is what makes me think it is paint. I don't think a decal would ware like that.

However, a decal should work. They are thin enough that it should conform to the rough cast iron. I also think they make a solvent that softens more than water for just that purpose.

I also seem to remember that I read somewhere that they make blank decal material that you can print on in a regular color printer. Has anyone heard of that?

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 2:30 pm
by JPG

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 2:36 pm
by JPG

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 5:58 pm
by jsburger
Yes, but again I think that is printable peal and stick stuff like the ones SS sells. They do call that type of thing decals now days. To me a decal is a water slide decal. This is from my very much younger days of plastic models, model rocketry and especially model railroading.

They do make water slide decal material now that is printable. They also make a solvent to make it stick better and a solvent to soften the decal film to make it conform to minute surface imperfections. Scan in a SS logo and print it to the decal material.

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 6:29 pm
by jsburger
After a bunch of running around this morning, I got time in the shop to install the motor. Stainless steel hardware to attach the motor to the bracket. All non specific SS hardware is stainless steel. I also added stainless steel washers to all knobs and bolts where the head of the fastener bears on the machine.

I am installing a new 14 gauge power cord with ground. I am still looking for a local source for the crimp on ring terminals for the switch. 14 gauge terminals come in two ring sizes and the big box stores don't carry the smaller size that is needed. I also haven't decided where to ground the power cord to the machine.

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 7:07 pm
by algale
Looks great! I am enjoying this thread immensely!

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 7:16 pm
by jsburger
algale wrote:Looks great! I am enjoying this thread immensely!
Thanks!!! I need to order speed changer belts from Skip and polish the tables and this one will be done.

Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 7:49 pm
by cham-ed
For terminals try an electrical supply house. Around here we have Englewood Electric and they carry a wide variety of terminals. Go to where the electricians buy large quantities of things like conduit.